dat2kman

That's funny, all the others that are using them, don't seem to have any issue.Might be how you had the tension set, as anything more than gentle thumb pressure, whilst tightening the four capscrews, will cause excessive wear. Oh, and as mentioned, for cam grinds, CliveCams in Melbourne, he bought all of Wade Cams when they closed, it just added to what Clive already had. He knows the grind numbers you will need.

Get an N42 For same $$$$ spent, better bang for buck. You can rip 120 thou off a p90, and bring the chamber down from 53cc to around 44cc, the benefit of p90 is the better flowing ports compared to other STANDARD heads. Valves are different heights. The Kameari timing chain tensioner kit solves a few issues, many are using these, with good result. If budget allows, look at using longer rods, and shorter pistons, for improved rod length to stroke ratio Go talk to Clive Cams for your cam, it'll most likely need to be a welded up, then ground down, 72-74 deg, nice tractable unit. He has all the various grinds on CNC machinery.

Be very aware, there are some tyres that people think are "semi slicks" or tyre retailers will tell you they are "semi slicks" the reality s, they either have little knowledge, or are just trying to sell tyres. If you do want track use tyres, go do some research, visit a track at a race meeting, ( not a sprint day), and go look at the Production Touring, Sports, or IPRA category cars. You'll find they are on proper semi slicks. Find the guys that are up the front, the ones that race, and have a bit of knowledge about what works. And have a second set of shitter tyres on nice rims, no-one will care what your street rubber is.

Hey, guess what,,,, I got one! Message me

120Y, Datsun 1600, Datsun Sports 2000, possibly 180B, 240Z and 260Z, all used the same dorr handle ( exterior)

The Roxborough Group C 2+2 was done for Touring Car racing, it ket the rules, at the time.You will need the very same car, not a replica, to use it for Hstoric Group C. Group Sc -Production Sports, cut off date is December 1976 Interestingly, some cars are elegible for both Group S and Group N , ie certain body/model Porsche and Alfa Romeo, as these were used in early Appendix J Touring car racing, due to having a back seat and meeting certain particular interior dimension requirements. As the 260Z 2+2 also has roven Touring car duty ( Group C) it could race as Historic Group N, BUT it requires a new sub-group introduced, Group Nd, for cars from 1972 to possibly 1979, this has been suggested, in order to introduce more cars, and entrants, to Group N, as, the very early class, Group Na, has very few entrants, and the cars are getting on, in years. Same is occuring in Group Sa, the older pre 1960's Sports cars, which often, at Historic race meets, are placed with fields of similar vintage open wheelers. It looks odd, but from a safety perspective, it works.

Whioe on an engine stand, Of the two full rotations of the drank, only half of one of those rotations, will be the compression stroke, of the piston. Rings will never fully seal, you cant rotate it fast enough. To try to get a rotation figure on a screw in Comp guage, remove all plugs, and ALL intake and exhaust rocker arms, and, using a rattle gun, with 27mm socket, rotate, at least 1/2 dozen times, per cylinder count No of seconds of rattle gun, use same count for each cyl. By removing all rocker arms, every upwards stroke is a Comp stroke, and each time, the guauge needle will hold on its stop, (if fitted) This wont be a true indication but gives indication of difference. Then put 20-30ml of gear oil (90 weight) in the bore, test again. Incresed readings indicate ring/bore wear ( it's a very rough method!) The 90 weight helps seal the rings. Bit more complicated is a Leak Down test, this gives better idea of ring condition, and valve sealing, and, if coolant in system, any head gasket issues.

Size will be approx 16mm on rear. The end arms either fold back in onthemselves, and longish, or, splay out slightly and a bit shorter

I have a few assorted 240 and 260 Z rear hars, they will fit Your car. There are different shapes for all three versions. Can package and freigh

Hung, if that was the original motor, it was put together by a guy up here, Simon Rhodes, fairly well known half reasonable engine, box and diff guy. PITA to deal with, aka "athe Obnoxious Kiwi" ,

Temporarily clamp/ziptie a bit of rubber sheet piece, to crossmember, to insulate. Go for drive, if noise has changed,/gone, then yes its exhaust hitting crossmember, Do one test at a time, or you wont know which it is. Jack up rear of car, release handbrake, put car in gear. Rotate one tyre, back/forth. Clunking? Excess CW&P backlash. Remove diff, send it to a diff/box shop to have backlash adjusted out. You still need some, to allow for growth under heat, talking a few thou's No, you cant do that at home, you need dial guage, and possibly a new pinion crush tube. They may also report it needs re-lapping, if teeth wear is bad.

Have a pair, Brisbane North

Depending on how little core shift it had, when manufactured, a sonic test will reveal this, a block capable of larger boring, will sell at $1000 or more.

The wording was "intrusion bar" Although these days, it tends to be more a X bar, running from main hoop, to lower forward leg. On LH side, not required While you've got the foam'o'fill on the go, do the sill cavities. Used to do the Dato 1600 rally cars, made a fair difference when sliding into cut down tree stumps. Thought he said doors were 22kg, now down to 9kg, ie 13kg per door weight off

Well, most of the images, and charts, in the thread on cylinder head indentification, aren't showing.?

Have a pair ( 2 only) Mikuni PHH2 44's For sale, Just need to find another!

Strip the doors, and acid dip them. Same with all other hung panels. Run a side intrusion bar and mount driver seat as close to centre tunnel as possible.

I treid getting old ones remanufactured, but the cost to do so, at around $140-150 per item, and, that they were not "genuine original" along with the Datsun owner syndrome of short arms and deep pockets, negated the whole thing. Was also doing diff and engine mounts,,,, Just buy the ones at $175, maybe cheaper in US, but you'll get a postage charge surprise.

I have fitted 15"x8" Wata/Rota RB style rims over the larger AZC 2 piece rotor and brake setup They do clear The Simmons 16" that the owner wanted to fit, did not, simply due to the inner spoke shaping. There is a wider range of track use road legal semi slicks available in 15" The Prod Sports and Touring racers, all seem to like the Yoko A050 in 225/50x15 There are cheaper tyres about, that some think are a "semi slick" but, better you check for yourself what the fast track cars are using at one of the tracks down your way.

That was Jon's? Is it still at his place?

It's like the Everready bunny,,,,,, It goes on and on and on and on,,,,,,,

Lurch,,,, Master of Complication, Ba Hons, LLB, Letters, Dip Ed.

Sounds more like he used your bellhousing, and shoved into it, a Kameari equipped 71C cluster/ext housing.

No stock avail new. The ones i sent you pics of, the rubber is in vgc, due to them not having been fitted to a car, since around 1995! Still available here!

Chamber volume is same as n42 heads, and those steel inserts restrict flow. Not sure if they can be machined out, or how they are set in? Maybe as part of original casting process.