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Andrew_L26

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Andrew_L26 last won the day on April 13

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About Andrew_L26

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  • Birthday 11/07/1997

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    Melbourne
  • Tagline
    That Purple Zed

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  1. Hi Gav, haven't been on the forum hardly at all lately or I would have flicked some money your way. I'll send some over now! Thanks for all the years of info and support! Andrew
  2. So not going to lie I've been distracted with 90s jap cars, sorry but they dont rust and they are dirt cheap in comparison what can I say Anyway, I have done a bit in the last 12 months but not a whole heap. That being said, the car is pretty well as rust free as I'm going to get it. Floor pans are done, Floor supports are done, sills are done as are doglegs. Since my last post I've moved out of home into a propper shed (and a house of course!) On top of Uni I've been working a lot more than I have in the past leaving a bit less time to work on cars. (I'm lying and making excuses for not knuckling down and getting her done) Possums had decided to live on my doors, so I took them to the new place... Back to the zed! Got my mate around to smash out a bit of work! Got me back on track! Now I started to test fit doors to start ensuring that all the gaps were perfect (as perfect as they can be on these cars anyway) A bit of work was required around the dogleg area as it had been reconstructed from scratch. Scored myself a excellent condition hatch for $100, I knew it had a little rust and dings but it was in original paint so there were no surprises, which is rare with these cars The next major task was to get the hatch to line up correctly due to the MAJOR surgery where the hatch mounts and the fairly major work that has been done around the tail lights, remember this? I regret not making up a better jig before cutting out the roof frame but with a bit of pulling and beating the hatch fits nicely. I also had to adjust the corner of the 1/4 panels slightly with the welder. So as I said she has been a little niglected the past 7 months especially, I feel that I needed a break from the seemingly endless project so I decided to do a few smaller "builds" to get the satisfaction levels up and get away from the grinding and welding. This is what I've been up to! Purchased a 1999 WRX for a parts car to do a WRX conversion on my partners car (once mine and one of my best mates cars which we have a huge attatchment to) Engine is getting a full timing belt kit and seals etc. before going into the other car! Managed to fully strip it, keep the entire interior, all wiring and driveline (including suspension etc.) and still make $100 off the leftover parts! The shell was sold off to someone to re-use so it didn't even go to scrap! The next side hussle was a clean 1974 TA22 celica. The prices have been going up like crazy lately (not as much as the S30s but still a fair bit). I decided to get this one as it was the right price, only has very very minor rust (which I now know how to spot) but a bit of panel damage from being hit. Originally it was between a 260z 2+2 and a TA22 Celica, now I have both! Considering it has no engine I'm planning a high budget twin charged K24 honda engine, Failing the twincharging system if it proves to be too difficult I might go just supercharged but we will see. This will be my next major project after this zed is done and is currently in storage, I only cataloged the parts, gave it a good clean out, stripped the areas prone to rust and only found very minor rust. Toyota's designs were far superior in terms of water drainage etc. as well as a higher carbon steel being used so less rust!!!! The next car on the list was the old family car, 2008 toyota corolla with 330,000km on it (now my sisters) It hadn't had any of the suspension touched on it since new. So a full rebuild was in order, fresh bushes throughout, new balljoints, sway bar endlinks, brakes, wheel bearings, shocks etc. Drives like new! This was pretty much every bushing in the car, pretty rough for a 12 year old car! So the corolla was done! Next was to get my 1999 N15 Pulsar SSS Turbo engineered so I can actually drive it! After getting it defected driving it on my P's it had been sitting for about a year and a half. She was cleaned up and prepped for an engineering cert. The car was then dropped off at the engineer and $850 later all legit! Car was then re-registered and it is now my daily, boost controller and a few other mods to make it go like the clappers. My guess is probably 170kw at the wheels, enough to chop standard V8 Commo's and Falcons which is all I want from this nana car! Finally got the chance to properly decontaminate the paint and cut her back properly the other day. Came out pretty good for a total of around $4k including engineering. Also how good is this sticker! 5 stud conversion, R32 GTR brakes and genuine white TE37s. Just got to machine up a few custom parts before it's ready!. So after the Pulsar was engineered, a cheap 1998 WRX came up for sale, not running, the original plan was to part it out as the advert stated it had 370k on the clock. Well, turns out it actually only has 270k on the clock and it just needed the fuel system cleaned out and a fresh pump as it had been sitting for about 5 years. Decided not to part it out, pull the engine out, reseal the entire thing with a fresh timing belt kit etc. I'll eventually sell it but I'll get it registered first and enjoy it for a bit! The rexy is back up and running, just waiting for COVID to piss off before I can get it registered. The last vehicle I purchased was a ride on mower for $50, goes great! Also purchased a bigboy air compressor. I'm wanting to do my own sandblasting and there is nothing worse than running out of air! 42cfm! Runs a 3/4" airline to the sandblaster. Should be able to do whole cars myself now! And back to the zed if you're still with me! I appreciate it if you are! (yes it looks a little sad but the gaps are spot on!) I've finally got my motivation back for the Purple Z, apart from doing a few things on the Pulsar and getting the WRX registered, this will be my focus! Hopefully it will be done one day?!
  3. Ah man, haven't checked the forum in ages. Reading this remindes me of how much of a heartbreaker these cars are. What do you reckon 5% of all the s30s are rust free? Gotta love it, repairs are looking great guys!
  4. In Vic if you're able to keep the standard engine management, standard engine and standard emissions equipment you can do it for around 1k, the emissions tests are the expensive part at around 1200-2200$ depending on various things.
  5. Yeah, considering this post is 4 years old and there are multiple posts saying it's been sold. I reckon you'll be right to pick it up this weekend xD
  6. Me and the misso will be there! Might even bring my z in it's project stage considering it will probably already be sitting on the trailer. Sad I missed it last year!
  7. Continuing on from my last post, floor pan patches. Plenty of little rust spots to patch! Cut open the drivers side dogleg and sill area, about what I expected. Little bit of panel beating to get the dogleg repair sections up to scratch (still needs some work but getting there) The replacement rear slam panel. I picked up a 240z section from rare spares and modified it to work on the 2+2. I just had to add a lip to the front of it as well as clearance the latch dimples. Plenty of weld thru primer! All welded on. Overall super happy with this repair. Considering how bad it was I'm stoked! This is it before... Now for the most difficult repair I have undertaken on the car. The rear hatch mounting has some serious design issues on the 2+2's, they collect moisture and rot out, if you have even small holes or just rust scale up here I can almost guarantee that if you dig into it you will discover how fu**ed it is. I tried to source a rust free section but after looking at around four cars I wasn't able to find anything that was in good condition. I even had a look at restored 2+2's, original 2+2's etc etc. and they all have this issue. I only know of two other people who have actually done this repair so there is little documentation on it. If you are attempting this repair it is important that you build up a jig that bolts into the hatch mounting points and then triangulates down to the strut towers (or somewhere that is sturdy) This is so that once you have a repair section you will be able to line it up correctly. I started by folding up the rough shape, taking the average measurements from the entire length as the panel is not evenly shaped. I then began to heat and curve the section, this would be made easy with a shrinking and expanding tool, unfortunately I don't have access to one (one tool I really want to buy) Then I make up the strengthening plates and weld them on (with nuts on the back for the hatch to bolt to) The corner sections are welded on as well as the end pieces. Lots of test fitting with the hatch. Small repairs to the roof skin, avoiding putting much heat into it as the roof is the last panel I want to warp! All primed, ready to go in! Turned out great! Waiting on a replacement hatch (as mine is fairly rough) so that I can perfectly line up the roof skin and weld it in place. Considering the difficulty of this repair I am super happy with how it came out, it still needs some adjustment to get the hatch fitment spot on but nothing major! Rear subframe and suspension out, as well as the engine and front crossmember Made up a quick rotisserie using scrap that I had lying around, cost me nothing to build except some welding wire, gas and cut off wheels. The underbody was what I expected for the most part, the underfloor supports are dented and scraped but not too badly rusted, A bit of rust here and there but nothing too serious. I was more worried about how badly they were dented (I want this car to be pretty underneath as well!!) The underbody sealer and stoneguard was shocking to deal with, started to strip it but I decided it wasn't worth my time, and so I decided to get it sandblasted! Also got the inside of the floorpans done (I had already chipped off the sound deadning) I decided to go with a automotive sandblaster as he was local and super knowledgable, normally doing concourse stuff but also the occasional budged blast like mine. Chris is an amazing guy who knows what he is doing in the automotive stripping world. NO WARPED PANELS HERE! He does charge a bit more than your average cowboy with a sandblaster but his knowledge and can do attitude makes up for it! His website is http://yvblastclean.com/ (Yarra Valley Blast Cleaning) Came out amazing, quite a few pinholes and other rust spots surfaced as expected. A few before and after photos. I got stuck in a bit of a drizzle when heading over there, hence the surface rust on the before shots. Also I must note that he was doing a quick job for me to save costs, hence the seam sealer left and little bits here and there. Got her home, did a quick repair on the roof and drivers side window line. Back into the floor pan patches. Re-doing the first repair I ever did. I remember coming home from the xmas bbq and getting stuck in with my gassless mig, good fun! Lost some motivation after my trip to japan and getting busy (and the huge number of little patches I still had to go) so I decided to get my mate over and smash out all the little patches! Got them all done in a day! Thanks Matt!! If you're ever loosing motivation, call in reinforcements for a day and get a heap done, certainly worked for me! My plan with the underfloor supports was to cut the bottom section off (as it has bits of rust and is seriously dented) and weld in some nice flat sheet metal. Ended up working out great! The whole underside is complete as is the interior (other than the old under-dash repair I did ages ago which needs some attention) On another note me and my mate Matt decided we needed a car trailer, though we weren't about to go out and drop 2 grand on one! Nope, we bought what was essentially a POS old trailer and completely rebuilt it, including new draw bar, extended bed, new brakes, hubs, tool box, full electric system with electric winch and lights. All in I think it was around $1400 including rego, and about 6 days of solid work with two people. Was a heap of fun building, practiced some welding and we have ended up with a mad trailer! I mounted the winch in a way that it could be quickly removed as well as rotated 90 degrees and 180 degrees, this is because my driveway is fairly steep and muddy and the old commodore isn't always able to pull it out from the bottom of the driveway. I am easily able to flip it around and use it to pull the trailer up the driveway! Going back to uni next week so I probably won't get as much done over the next 6 months but I'm hoping to have her in primer and be a good way through the filling and panel beating stage by the end of the year. I will hopefully also be bringing her to the Xmas BBQ in her unfinished state! Cheers guys! Looking forward to finishing these bloody rust repairs! The end of them is near! As always follow me on Instagram for the latest, New username too! Driveway_Datsuns https://www.instagram.com/driveway_datsuns/ BONUS PHOTOS FROM JAPAN (INCLUDING STAR ROAD, HISTORY GARAGE, TOYOTA MUSEUM and DAIKOKU FUTO PA) Was just verifying the lack of an L series! Loving the purple!
  8. Hey mate, I would suspect that this is a "police issued number" due to body parts being replaced, stolen and recovered or something similar. Bit more info here: http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/topic/25502-police-chassis-numbers/ http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/topic/43484-police-isued-chassis-numbers/ "My SLR5000 has a VP number, but Police and VicRoads records don't indicate that it has ever been stolen. The first two numbers after the"V" are the year that the new number was allocated. V03####P is 2003. Mine is V76####P, so 1976. " Hope this helps!
  9. Hey Cam, I'll send you a text!
  10. Thanks mate! I'll be sure to get plenty of paint and cavity spray up underneath. After really digging into these old cars you realise that it's no surprise that they rust. Poor design with seams and drainage points, crap steel and the stingy application of paint/rust proofing! Andrew
  11. Hi guys, just wondering what the original finish was on the underbody of a 77 260z 2+2. Mine is undergoing a rotisserie restoration and I want to get the underbody finish correct! From the digging on my car it would seem as though the process would be: Primer>stone guard>whatever overspray from the painting of the body>bitchumen paint Not sure if that's the way it was done from the factory as my car had had plenty of repairs in the past! Cheers guys, Andrew
  12. I'm down in Melbourne Australia but I do travel up to Wagga NSW every now and then!
  13. Hi guys, I'm after a good condition rear hatch. I don't mind some very minor rust but anything major and I might as well just fix my current one. If it's not either stripped or in original paint (bog free) I'm not overly interested. My current one isn't too bad but I'm just trying to save some time on my build! Cheers!
  14. Hi guys, just wondering what centre caps were originally used on Watanabe wheels. I've managed to get a set of old 15" Wats and I'm wanting to complete the look with genuine centre caps. I know these can be purchased new but I don't particularly want plastic centre caps if they had metal ones back in the day. Also I'm planning to paint my wheels the matte black colour and I was wondering if there are were any matte black centre caps to go with them. ( I could just paint some though) These are the type of centre caps that I believe are period correct (but they're upwards of 500$! and not black) https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/u242794982 Also does anyone know what valve stems were originally supplied from RS Watanabe? I was just planning on buying the new genuine ones for about $50 I have been trying to source some of these black period electron lock nuts too but haven't been able to. I did just purchase a set of 3 old silver ones which are missing the key and one locknut for 15$ shipped. I know I'm being a bit over the top with all this but I just want the wheels to be as genuine and period correct as possible! If any of you guys know anything about these accessories let me know! Oh the purity!
  15. Haha that was me! What I did with my dash repair was cut the cracks out (mine were a fair bit worse than yours with me needing to cut all the way through the dash pad) then expanding foam, then normal body filler then high fill primer and finally a ute bed liner. It cracked after 6 months which I believe was the body filler cracking. I will be interested to see if your flexible body filler works and lasts a decent amount of time. Also your finish with the textured paint and then the matte black vinyl paint was a much much closer finish than my method. The bed liner I used gave it a rubberised coating which feels crappy and is super hard to clean. Does the repaired area on your dash feel like the original hard plastic shell or does it have a rubbery type texture? I'm thinking I might just get a TopStage fibreglass/carbon fibre dash pad and then finish it with either a professional reskin or a similar method to how you did yours. Loving the videos!
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