Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Andrew_L26 last won the day on April 13

Andrew_L26 had the most liked content!

About Andrew_L26

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 11/07/1997

member details

  • Location
  • Tagline
    That Purple Zed

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Yeah, considering this post is 4 years old and there are multiple posts saying it's been sold. I reckon you'll be right to pick it up this weekend xD
  2. Me and the misso will be there! Might even bring my z in it's project stage considering it will probably already be sitting on the trailer. Sad I missed it last year!
  3. Continuing on from my last post, floor pan patches. Plenty of little rust spots to patch! Cut open the drivers side dogleg and sill area, about what I expected. Little bit of panel beating to get the dogleg repair sections up to scratch (still needs some work but getting there) The replacement rear slam panel. I picked up a 240z section from rare spares and modified it to work on the 2+2. I just had to add a lip to the front of it as well as clearance the latch dimples. Plenty of weld thru primer! All welded on. Overall super happy with this repair. Considering how bad it was I'm stoked! This is it before... Now for the most difficult repair I have undertaken on the car. The rear hatch mounting has some serious design issues on the 2+2's, they collect moisture and rot out, if you have even small holes or just rust scale up here I can almost guarantee that if you dig into it you will discover how fu**ed it is. I tried to source a rust free section but after looking at around four cars I wasn't able to find anything that was in good condition. I even had a look at restored 2+2's, original 2+2's etc etc. and they all have this issue. I only know of two other people who have actually done this repair so there is little documentation on it. If you are attempting this repair it is important that you build up a jig that bolts into the hatch mounting points and then triangulates down to the strut towers (or somewhere that is sturdy) This is so that once you have a repair section you will be able to line it up correctly. I started by folding up the rough shape, taking the average measurements from the entire length as the panel is not evenly shaped. I then began to heat and curve the section, this would be made easy with a shrinking and expanding tool, unfortunately I don't have access to one (one tool I really want to buy) Then I make up the strengthening plates and weld them on (with nuts on the back for the hatch to bolt to) The corner sections are welded on as well as the end pieces. Lots of test fitting with the hatch. Small repairs to the roof skin, avoiding putting much heat into it as the roof is the last panel I want to warp! All primed, ready to go in! Turned out great! Waiting on a replacement hatch (as mine is fairly rough) so that I can perfectly line up the roof skin and weld it in place. Considering the difficulty of this repair I am super happy with how it came out, it still needs some adjustment to get the hatch fitment spot on but nothing major! Rear subframe and suspension out, as well as the engine and front crossmember Made up a quick rotisserie using scrap that I had lying around, cost me nothing to build except some welding wire, gas and cut off wheels. The underbody was what I expected for the most part, the underfloor supports are dented and scraped but not too badly rusted, A bit of rust here and there but nothing too serious. I was more worried about how badly they were dented (I want this car to be pretty underneath as well!!) The underbody sealer and stoneguard was shocking to deal with, started to strip it but I decided it wasn't worth my time, and so I decided to get it sandblasted! Also got the inside of the floorpans done (I had already chipped off the sound deadning) I decided to go with a automotive sandblaster as he was local and super knowledgable, normally doing concourse stuff but also the occasional budged blast like mine. Chris is an amazing guy who knows what he is doing in the automotive stripping world. NO WARPED PANELS HERE! He does charge a bit more than your average cowboy with a sandblaster but his knowledge and can do attitude makes up for it! His website is http://yvblastclean.com/ (Yarra Valley Blast Cleaning) Came out amazing, quite a few pinholes and other rust spots surfaced as expected. A few before and after photos. I got stuck in a bit of a drizzle when heading over there, hence the surface rust on the before shots. Also I must note that he was doing a quick job for me to save costs, hence the seam sealer left and little bits here and there. Got her home, did a quick repair on the roof and drivers side window line. Back into the floor pan patches. Re-doing the first repair I ever did. I remember coming home from the xmas bbq and getting stuck in with my gassless mig, good fun! Lost some motivation after my trip to japan and getting busy (and the huge number of little patches I still had to go) so I decided to get my mate over and smash out all the little patches! Got them all done in a day! Thanks Matt!! If you're ever loosing motivation, call in reinforcements for a day and get a heap done, certainly worked for me! My plan with the underfloor supports was to cut the bottom section off (as it has bits of rust and is seriously dented) and weld in some nice flat sheet metal. Ended up working out great! The whole underside is complete as is the interior (other than the old under-dash repair I did ages ago which needs some attention) On another note me and my mate Matt decided we needed a car trailer, though we weren't about to go out and drop 2 grand on one! Nope, we bought what was essentially a POS old trailer and completely rebuilt it, including new draw bar, extended bed, new brakes, hubs, tool box, full electric system with electric winch and lights. All in I think it was around $1400 including rego, and about 6 days of solid work with two people. Was a heap of fun building, practiced some welding and we have ended up with a mad trailer! I mounted the winch in a way that it could be quickly removed as well as rotated 90 degrees and 180 degrees, this is because my driveway is fairly steep and muddy and the old commodore isn't always able to pull it out from the bottom of the driveway. I am easily able to flip it around and use it to pull the trailer up the driveway! Going back to uni next week so I probably won't get as much done over the next 6 months but I'm hoping to have her in primer and be a good way through the filling and panel beating stage by the end of the year. I will hopefully also be bringing her to the Xmas BBQ in her unfinished state! Cheers guys! Looking forward to finishing these bloody rust repairs! The end of them is near! As always follow me on Instagram for the latest, New username too! Driveway_Datsuns https://www.instagram.com/driveway_datsuns/ BONUS PHOTOS FROM JAPAN (INCLUDING STAR ROAD, HISTORY GARAGE, TOYOTA MUSEUM and DAIKOKU FUTO PA) Was just verifying the lack of an L series! Loving the purple!
  4. Hey mate, I would suspect that this is a "police issued number" due to body parts being replaced, stolen and recovered or something similar. Bit more info here: http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/topic/25502-police-chassis-numbers/ http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/topic/43484-police-isued-chassis-numbers/ "My SLR5000 has a VP number, but Police and VicRoads records don't indicate that it has ever been stolen. The first two numbers after the"V" are the year that the new number was allocated. V03####P is 2003. Mine is V76####P, so 1976. " Hope this helps!
  5. Hey Cam, I'll send you a text!
  6. Thanks mate! I'll be sure to get plenty of paint and cavity spray up underneath. After really digging into these old cars you realise that it's no surprise that they rust. Poor design with seams and drainage points, crap steel and the stingy application of paint/rust proofing! Andrew
  7. Hi guys, just wondering what the original finish was on the underbody of a 77 260z 2+2. Mine is undergoing a rotisserie restoration and I want to get the underbody finish correct! From the digging on my car it would seem as though the process would be: Primer>stone guard>whatever overspray from the painting of the body>bitchumen paint Not sure if that's the way it was done from the factory as my car had had plenty of repairs in the past! Cheers guys, Andrew
  8. I'm down in Melbourne Australia but I do travel up to Wagga NSW every now and then!
  9. Hi guys, I'm after a good condition rear hatch. I don't mind some very minor rust but anything major and I might as well just fix my current one. If it's not either stripped or in original paint (bog free) I'm not overly interested. My current one isn't too bad but I'm just trying to save some time on my build! Cheers!
  10. Hi guys, just wondering what centre caps were originally used on Watanabe wheels. I've managed to get a set of old 15" Wats and I'm wanting to complete the look with genuine centre caps. I know these can be purchased new but I don't particularly want plastic centre caps if they had metal ones back in the day. Also I'm planning to paint my wheels the matte black colour and I was wondering if there are were any matte black centre caps to go with them. ( I could just paint some though) These are the type of centre caps that I believe are period correct (but they're upwards of 500$! and not black) https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/u242794982 Also does anyone know what valve stems were originally supplied from RS Watanabe? I was just planning on buying the new genuine ones for about $50 I have been trying to source some of these black period electron lock nuts too but haven't been able to. I did just purchase a set of 3 old silver ones which are missing the key and one locknut for 15$ shipped. I know I'm being a bit over the top with all this but I just want the wheels to be as genuine and period correct as possible! If any of you guys know anything about these accessories let me know! Oh the purity!
  11. Haha that was me! What I did with my dash repair was cut the cracks out (mine were a fair bit worse than yours with me needing to cut all the way through the dash pad) then expanding foam, then normal body filler then high fill primer and finally a ute bed liner. It cracked after 6 months which I believe was the body filler cracking. I will be interested to see if your flexible body filler works and lasts a decent amount of time. Also your finish with the textured paint and then the matte black vinyl paint was a much much closer finish than my method. The bed liner I used gave it a rubberised coating which feels crappy and is super hard to clean. Does the repaired area on your dash feel like the original hard plastic shell or does it have a rubbery type texture? I'm thinking I might just get a TopStage fibreglass/carbon fibre dash pad and then finish it with either a professional reskin or a similar method to how you did yours. Loving the videos!
  12. Hi guys, wanting to buy, borrow or hire a rotisserie. Only need it for 3 months tops. Let me know what you've got! Located in Victoria but could possibly travel Andrew
  13. Yeah, they sure have! It's all practice really. I've actually taken 6 months off uni to get the car finished. Working 3 days a week and spending the rest of the time getting stuff done on the zed. The project has been dribbling on too long so it's time to get her finished and driving! Going to be sorting out the engineering cert for the turbo conversion. I'm going to document the process so those in Victoria know what to expect if doing a similar upgrade.
  14. So it's been ages since my last update but the progress hasn't stopped. (Though it has been slow) Fuel filler area has been sorted Doors have had major work done with all rust removed as well as the huge dents pulled out (looks like they were run into a pole or something) The rear tail light are has had some serious work done and is looking so much better than before Roof frame has been cut out, still need to make up a repair section which will be challenging but ultimately worth it as most of the 2+2s I've seen are rotted out in this area (even restored examples) Got some fibreglass front guards, sort of cheating but I need to move this build on and these guards are lighter, cheaper and plastic DOESN'T RUST! The guards needed a fair bit of work to get rid of the cracks and scratches I made up some lower rear 1/4 repair sections. Super happy with how these came out Got the left hand side welded in after sorting out the rust on the inside Finally got sick of working in the driveway and built my self a "shed" which is really just a shed frame concreted in with a few big tarps over the top to keep the council happy (no building permit needed for a "temporary" structure) Got the right hand lower rear 1/4 section cut out, inside parts repaired and outer skin welded in. Finished off the rear beaver panel and spent an entire day grinding to get everything flat. Decided to redo the passenger rear window repair as I wasn't happy with my last attempt. Also got the seam looking factory. Then spent some time getting the door gap correct as this section has had some major work on both the door side and the actual body. Continued work on the dogleg repair, not finished but getting better slowly. Got rid of all the sound deadening in the interior and began to wire wheel it. Now I'm part way through repairing all the little rust holes in the floor (and the bigger ones) luckily there wasn't anything major waiting under the sound deadening. Also test fit the tail lights to ensure that all the work done in that area hasn't altered the fitment of the lights. The left side is pretty much perfect and the right side isn't far behind only needing a small amount of work to get the fitment perfect! As of now that's all I've done which leaves the rest of the interior rust repairs, right hand dogleg and sill, the roof, the rear hatch and scuttle panel. Decided I'm going to purchase a fibreglass bonnet as the weight savings will be huge (and mine is stuffed beyond feasible repair) Oh, and I just purchased some 15x7 +5 genuine Watanabes (not new ones either, managed to get some old ones made around the late 70s/early 80s which is perfect for my car). They need restoration but they only have minor corrosion and damage (after sitting on a DR30 Skyline for 20 years in a paddock) Hoping to squeeze some 235/50R15 toyo's on under the stock guards but failing that I'll settle for some 225s As always if you want to keep updated with the latest you can follow my Instagram here: https://www.instagram.com/andrew_langford88
  • Create New...