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As above  What to use for the hinges can't find any repros No idea what they look like Photos appreciated Thanks Nick

Thanks Don't need to fit locks/seals just set gap door/rear 1/4 and work from there?

Hi twosixtyzed Looks like you are making progress. Sometimes there are casualties so dont worry about it. Im suprised by how tight they must have been as I assumed they would have been removed recently in order to recondition the booster. Your options sound good and your choice depends on how much "fun" you want to have and how much you have had already. There is still plenty of "fun" left in this job. If it were me I would remove the line and have a replacement made. There might be a mobile guy that can come to your place to make the new line. Be careful and make sure they use the same size flare nuts; there is nothing worse than having to use two different sized spanners to do the same job ie remove the lines. I was told a while back by my friend in SA who made his own lines that the correct size can be hard to find, but that was a while back. Dont get down on it. Trying = experience. Keep us posted.  

Update: Master cylinder removed.  Those flange nuts were stuck tight as.  My inexperience led me to go too far with the 10mm flange spanner, I was going slow but I tried too many times and stripped them, I was annoyed at myself.  I got PB Blaster and then some heat to them, then used a vice grip and eventually got them undone.  But I feel like I wrecked the nuts unfortunately.  Seems to me my options are (but definitely happy to be corrected): A) Struggle and get the other end (proportioning valve end) off and take it to my mechanic to make equivalent lines B) File the nuts flat. But feels unsatisfactory, will be hard to get them on-off in the future, looks fugly. C) Buy the double flaring tool and steel line (or cunifer?) materials, try and do it myself, I reviewed a load of youtube vids on double flaring, seems a bit of skills is needed  

Tyres – I had some pretty good Michelin Pilot Sport 4s  225/ ZR 17 and the rear ended up being 235/ ZR 17, I would rate as one of the best tyres I have used on public roads, great feel right to the edge of traction and predictable beyond the edge of traction, reliable no punctures, wore evenly, back went before the front – understandable. Track day at Warick did bring out some problems, track is so much different, did not feel too comfortable on the edge here going much faster, front end was snaky under hard braking and the front tyres centres started to carve out that’s after 3 laps.  Never had Yokohama’s before, Japanese car, Japanese Tyres cant go to far wrong, AD009 Cut Semi Slicks pretty much, its early days don’t know about the wear yet, but 1st proper road test, Great  I was hoping for a 20% improvement and overall I would say: ·       all-round  grip is 15-20% better ·       stability under brakes 30% better ·       grip under hard braking 30% better ·       stability while cornering through large g-outs 30% better ·       high speed edge grip 10% better ·       hooking up out of corners 20% better ·       aesthetic  better ·       steering is a whole new level  30% better What’s Fitted ·       Yokohama Advan Neova AD09  Front 225/45R17  94W ·       Yokohama Advan Neova AD09  Rear 235/45R17 94W This is all subjective seat of the pants feel, but feel is important and initial impressions, new tyres do always feel better and steering always feels improved with new tyres, trying to factor that into to the impressions above. If you spend the time and look at reviews and testing across the globe, it builds picture of what the tyres perform like in very extreme track testing going much faster than I ever will, early days, they seem to be the pick of the bunch. It would be good to personally test everything, but that’s expensive and time consuming, I sure there is some other very good alternatives, But can only talk about what I have and compare it to past rubber.