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Bobby

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About Bobby

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  • Location
    Newcastle

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  1. Hello 240ZR. Are they in good condition? How much are you after? Do you have a 240Z with a Maserati motor?
  2. I am after front and rear bumper bars to fit a 1975 260Z two seater. I am going to paint them so if you have some rusty ones that is okay. I do not want dented or damaged ones. Thanks.
  3. Bobby

    Timing chain tensioner

    Thanks my_mad_z. Earlier today I rang Stewart Wilkins in Sydney and he said they used to have them years ago but not any more. He said to just give a light smear of Permatex or some sealer.
  4. I am after some advice please. I have had my head done up and is now tensioned down. I am following the book "How to rebuild your Nissan Datsun OHC engine by Tom Monroe. When it comes to install the timing chain tensioner he says "don't forget the gasket. I don't remember seeing a gasket when I pulled it down. I have a FelPro engine rebuild gasket set and there is nothing that looks like it. I had bought a timing chain kit by OSK from Zcar Depot and it comes with everything except a gasket for the tensioner. Neither Zcar Depot or Motor Sport Auto list a gasket. So I am assuming it is metal to metal. Does anyone know for sure?
  5. Hello Hardman. Did you get a console lid?
  6. Hello Gavin. The previous owner had this car on club plates but mainly used the car as a club level race car at Wakefield. I don't think he would have any previous knowledge as I asked him about an issue I discovered after buying the car and he claimed to have no knowledge of it. Also from what Andrew-L26 is saying the new number was stamped in 1978 when the car was only two years old. I have just had a look in the area where HS30-H said to look and can't see anything. I also tried shining a torch at an angle across the area where the original stamping should be to see if it highlighted anything. It didn't. My club rego is due for renewal in the next month so I will ask at the RTA if they have any knowledge of history. Currently the car is a bare shell and as I said previously the firewall welds all look factory to me.
  7. Thanks very much for all of the thoughts/advice. The firewall looks to be original to me so when the car goes back to the panel beater I will ask his opinion. Also when we strip the paint off in the engine bay it may reveal something. From what Andrew-L26 is saying my new number was issued in 1978 when the car was built in 1976 from what gav240z is saying. Anyway I was just wondering. At least it is legal.
  8. Thanks very much for your time. I haven't been loosing sleep about it but was just wondering why. Gav240Z I have just read the article you had put together and I feel mine is different again. I don't know the build date of my car because a rivet had been put through the number after 197 but back in March I went to the historics at Phillip island (for my 40th wedding anniversary) and was talking to some fellows running in regularity with 240/260's and they said because of my door latch type, the style of the door jamb and not having the interior air holes in the inner guard just behind the radiator support panel then it must be 1976 or later. My identification tag(from near battery) list the engine number and car number (RS30-015008) and the compliance plate has this car number as well. So from these tags it is possible to confirm I have a matching engine number to the original car number. Very interesting but still no explanation why they didn't stamp a chasis number on the firewall.
  9. Thanks for your time C.A.F. The drivers side all look original but I feel the left side may have been replaced from the firewall forward. I bought the car in NSW in 2016.
  10. Everything I have read says the chasis number should be on the firewall above the brake master cylinder. My car does not have any number there and the firewall does look original. It does have a number stamped into the top of the drivers side strut tower V782105P This number has no relation to the engine number or the car number.(taken from the small tag located just near the battery). I did a revs check before buying the car and all was okay. Any ideas?
  11. Thank you very much for taking the trouble for the photo. Even though it is a little dark down in there you can see it is above the electrical wires.
  12. Hello AndBir. Thanks for that. That is what I was thinking. It will teach me a lesson to take more photos when stripping down. I have spent hours looking at photos on the internet trying to see how it should be. I have printed out a photo so will mark it so that when the car is finally painted I will know what to do. Thanks again.
  13. In the photo where the firewall meets the inner guard are three holes. The big one is for electrical. Which of the other two is for the speedo cable? I feel it is the lower one. I should have taken a photo when dismantling but I didn't. Car is a late 260Z-not sure what year as a rivet was put through the number after 197 Thanks.
  14. I have for sale a copper radiator I had built for my 260Z. I was trying to maintain the correct look for the period. I bought a damaged radiator for the top and bottom tanks and then took it to a radiator place to have a three row core fitted at a cost of just under $900. The car has been driven with this radiator fitted. I had the radiator out of the car for a few months and when I put it back in it was leaking from three cracks in the bottom tank. I went to a radiator place and was told he could solder the cracks but it would more than likely leak again in six months. So I gave up and bought an aluminium one. This will suit someone who is trying to maintain period look and has a radiator that they could use the bottom tank from. After $200 for it. I live in Newcastle NSW.
  15. Thanks to all who were interested. This has just been sold.
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