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RestoZ last won the day on April 12 2020

RestoZ had the most liked content!

About RestoZ

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    Perth WA

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  1. Thanks Guys, really appreciate your input. It seems from what you are saying, that it is possible to fit either the 240 or 260 air cleaner, albeit with a bit of modification, which I'm comfortable doing, assuming it involves a bit of cutting, drilling, welding and filling to get the apertures lining up with the carby intakes. I'll keep an eye out for suitable air cleaners during the ongoing restoration and see what I can do once I'm able to source one. Off to Datsun in the Park this Sunday in Perth, so will see what others have done to address the issue and perhaps get some idea of what'
  2. Just a thought, will the original air cleaner from an Oz 260z bolt up to the round top SU's? or am I better off sticking with individual ones for each carb? Secondly, are the elements for the original air cleaner available in Oz?
  3. Good point Gilltech!!! When I bought the car, it came with one half round foam cleaner on one carby and nothing on the other, so that's going in the bin. I am on the lookout for a genuine 260z air cleaner 'cos, as I've said previously, while it won't be concourse, I want to keep it as close to original as possible. So, if anyone has one they are wanting to get rid of, let me know.
  4. Before I go much further, think I will talk to one of the inspectors and try to find out what they might nail me on. Things have changed in WA over the past couple of years and inspections for new licenses/relicenses are now done by private contractors rather than Department of Transport. Have dealt with DoT previously and they were extremely pedantic an absolute pain the bumb. Hopefully, things are a bit more relaxed these days. Will keep an eye out for a 240z balance tube to fit after the car is licensed. I'll be looking at a good set of headers at that point, so will sort the whole th
  5. Thanks for your responses guys. I will have to go through the process of registering the car in WA once it is all finished and I know the inspection boys have been very particular in the past about not making any changes to the emission system. Consequently, think I will have to at least present it all sufficiently intact to get it past that process. Once licensed, I can look at making some changes in that area. If someone in WA thinks this situation has changed (it's been a while since I've been through the process) can you let me know 'cos getting rid of all that plumbing is ultimately
  6. Hi All, Have been doing a bit of work on my SU's and manifolds, zinc plating and passivating various bits and in the process have discovered the connecting pipe which runs between both carbies is rusted out, as is one of the inlet pipes and two core plugs - one in the inlet manifold and one in the emissions manifold (yes, she's a 77 GSR30 2+2, complete with all the emissions gear). The pictures below show the story. I have a couple of questions: I read in a recent post (which I can't for the life of me find again) in which someone was querying where things went on the same carby
  7. Hi Craig Do you have anymore of the fans listed above? Still $75? Cheers Paul
  8. Thanks, appreciate the response. I suspect over the years the two have parted company on both doors so will have to address. I have been raiding the local panel beater's dump bin which is full of old doors and I see on modern cars they put big blobs of a sticky glue which sets but is still pliable so will see if I can find out what that is and post it back on here. Thanks again.
  9. Hi Guys have been through the threads on door skin replacement but cant see where mention is made of any attachment to the horizontal centre spar which runs across the middle of the door frame. I'm stripping my doors (and the rest of the car) and my skins seem a bit floppy, but if I push them back to the spar they seem quite rigid. Should they be attached to the spar and if so what is the best product to use to do that? Car is a 77 260z 2+2. Thanks Paul
  10. Thanks Dave, the roughing up and scraper made all the difference. Sheez, that stuff is tough! I'll have a crack at the dings tomorrow and see how we go. Ouch C.A.F!! If I did that I'd have to throw the rest of the car in behind it. This is probably one of the better panels and anyway I haven't got a big enough bin. Guess if I was paying someone by the hour to strip this back, your suggestion would be the way to go. But given I'm retired, have plenty of time on my hands (particularly with winter coming up), my hourly rate is zero and I don't like to be beaten by these things,
  11. Hi Guys Started a full resto on my recently purchased 77 GSR30 a couple of weeks ago and have now got to the bonnet which is proving a challenge. I'm using paint stripper and mechanical follow up with a grinder and wire wheel. I did the front guards and the nose cones without any major issues but did need to do up to 3 runs with the stripper (Poly Stripper - Dichlormethane) and then a final run over with the wire wheel. This car has had 3 paint jobs in its life by the look of things and the second one looks to be a 2 pack which has set like a rock on the bonnet and probably on the roof an
  12. Hi Gav, Another small donation from me. Only been on for a week or so but benefits far outweigh. Cheers Paul
  13. Thanks Craig, think I will go with the Tridon brand and keep it standard (sort of anyway). How do I arrange payment? Do you send me your bank account details? Haven't done this before and new to the site, so bear with me. Cheers Paul
  14. Hi Craig Do you still have some of these available? I'm chasing timing case cooling housing, top thermostat housing and lower thermostat housing. Also if you have a standard thermostat, I need one of those as well. Cheers Paul
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