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RestoZ

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RestoZ last won the day on July 18

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About RestoZ

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    Perth WA

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  1. Good find!! Thanks mate, I'll be using that.
  2. Hi Jeff. Been a couple of years now since you did your dash and was hoping you could give me some feedback on how it has stood the test of time. I've done mine up to the point of putting the final coat on and just deciding if bed armour is the way to go. Thanks Paul
  3. That's Lucky without a U
  4. Yep, drill and plug weld. Much neater and closer to original finish
  5. I can just see Lauchlan/Locky/CAF sitting back with his bucket of pop corn with a massive grin across his face as this discussion develops. Just to add to the mix this link provides some further insight into urethane primers: https://www.autobodysupply.net/Articles.asp?ID=139 My advice, right or wrong, was that using etch, followed by acrylic urethane primer when applying a clear over base finish was the best approach. There is more than one way to skin this cat and it all comes down to choosing a method and applying the associated advice and rules. Now where's my pop corn?
  6. Totally agree. Again, based on my research/questioning/confusion it seems compatibility is a key issue and the advice I've received has been to use, wherever possible, one supplier for all levels of filler, primer, base and clear and top coats.
  7. OK, in for a penny in for a pound. I'm not going to say if this is right or wrong, but I had the need to get all my body work coated with something after having stripped my entire car using paint stripper prior to winter arriving (this year). Firstly, with paint stripper it is important to clean all exposed parts with water once stripped. That done, it was dried with compressed air. Once stripped, all exposed rusted bits were treated with a product called Exit Rust - produced by a company in Malaga WA, sold by S&S Industries in Midvale and costs about $35 for 750ml. Does what it is supposed to do and converts any rust into a black inert substance, the residue being easily cleaned off. Now the right or wrong bit and I'm sure there are any number of opinions which are probably both right and/or wrong. To keep my panels (surface) rust free while I get around to putting a full primer on, I've sprayed them with an etch primer (Concept Paints 103 Etch Primer). I've taken this approach because: 1. I'm doing the stripping myself and therefore that takes time; 2. I can spray panels, etc. as and when I need to; 3. On bare metal, etch primer, I am told and have no reason to doubt, provides an equal or better level of adhesion than epoxy primer; and finally, provided you have the time (which fortunately, I do - yea, I'm one of those ROF's) the cost is next to nothing compared to blasting and epoxy coating. All up it's cost me a lot of hours (which is probably a killer for a lot of people), about $200 for paint stripper, $115 for etch primer and thinners and $35 for rust treatment. Significantly less than the $2k I was quoted to have the body blasted and epoxy coated. Now, I'm not an expert in any of these matters, but I have sought advice from a number of people who work in the industry and got totally confused going through the many (conflicting) bits of information on the 'net, and it seems opinions vary and most agree to disagree. One of the key areas seems to be with drying times. I am once again reliably informed that provided etch primer is given time to dry (like days, not hours) then problems with laying high build primers and base and clear over the top are minimal. Which leads to the next step - filling. Can fill be applied over an etch primer? Well, advice I have been given is "yes" or "no" - your choice. You can sand the primer off in those places where you need to fill, or you can apply fill over the top. Once again, lots of conflicting advice, but at the end of the day seems it's a personal choice. If you apply etch primer, you shouldn't apply an epoxy primer over the top and you shouldn't apply etch primer over the top of any fill repairs you may have done. Advice provided to me is to use a 2k acrylic urethane primer over the etch and any fill repairs and then sand and flat after that. This is based on my choice of wanting to later apply a clear over base finish. I'm keen to hear if my proposed approach is flawed and/or if there are potential problems that I haven't been advised of that people have experienced. Better to find out now than after I've applied the final clear coat. Sorry Ryan, I guess the short answer to your original question is hit it with an etch primer. I'll wait for the tsunami. Cheers Paul
  8. A bit late into this discussion but some pictures below which might help. Mine is a '76 260z 2+2.
  9. Bought these from KR Vintage JDM but decided to repair my guards without using them. I did use the internal section as a template to create a new one, but made sure not to damage it in the process. So everything is like new. Save yourself the cost of shipping out of the US - which is always a killer. Just wanting to recover my cost on the items. Can pick up if in Perth, or happy to post at buyers expense. $210 + postage if required.
  10. Thanks for the link Gav. I did a search for "bumpers" and went through all the posts back to 2017 and then stopped presuming things would have changed beyond that and would no longer be current. Wrong!! Anyway, good info in there which will assist in the decision making process.
  11. Hi Guys One of the things I'm starting to look at is my front and back bumpers. The ones on the car have a number of dents and have been taken to with a big hammer at one stage in an attempt to straighten out the result of someone's inability to reverse (and drive forward) without hitting things. It is possible they could be resurrected, but am looking for input as to what others may have done. As I see it my options are: 1) Try to source a second hand set of front and rears in good nick, 2) Purchase a new set, 3) See if someone (ideally in WA) is capable of fixing and re-chroming what I have, or 4) Strip them back myself, try to straighten them, strip 'em, fill 'em and paint 'em to match whatever body colour I decide to go with. I don't want to do a bumper delete, so have discounted that. Have attached some snaps of the front and centre section of the rear bumpers below. The centre section of the rear bumper took a big hit (see photo below to the right of the left hand over rider) and this has put a sway in the bar which puts everything out of alignment. Have tried a couple of things - had to try the alfoil thing after seeing it on YouTube - fail. A gentle buff with a buffing wheel on the grinder - some improvement, but not enough and of course the dents are still there. And finally used a bit of metal polish which gave a slightly shinier finish than the buffing wheel. Either way, none of these approaches will get the dents out and straighten the bars up so the finished items are not going to work for me. Potentially, a company with rollers, dies, stripping and re-chroming may be able to bring them back to new, but haven't looked into that yet. It seems the second hand ones which are available at the moment are in a similar condition to the ones I have. Which leads us to the purchase of a new set. Have had discussions with BumperAutomobile in Vietnam/China and have determined they do have the correct sized front and rear (longer) to suit my 260z 2+2 and that the fittings are the correct ones for my car. They advise they are 304 stainless steel and therefore rust shouldn't be an issue. So I've got all the measurements and I'm comfortable they will fit ok, just not happy with the USD580 + USD220 cost for supply and shipping. In Oz dollars (excluding any taxes and duty and a reduction in exchange rate by PayPal) at best that is about $1040. Gotta be another option. So, questions: 1. Any suggestions, comments or options about best way to go. Any experience with the new bumpers outlined above. 2. Any recommendations of reputable companies who can restore these and any idea of costs. Will send east if I necessary. 3. Anyone done a bumper delete and have a set of front and rear bumpers off a 2+2, in good nick, they want to off load? Hopefully, someone else's past experience will point me in the right direction. Cheers Paul
  12. Thanks Gav. That is a great site - my dream is to be as organised as that guy! Think I will go the mini chrome toggle switch route as he did - haven't been able to find anything plastic except the push button one I have. Should be close to authentic anyway. Cheers Paul
  13. Thanks Gav, will chase up and see if there is anything up there. Yes, Gilltech the push button switch is what I have repaired mine with at the moment - got it from Jaycar, but am hoping to get something more authentic. I'll see if my lens will polish up if I can't locate the LED one. Thanks for the feedback guys.
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