RestoZ

One of our members in the WA Z Register has supplied a rather nice 240Z for a local music artist to use in a music video. The track is called "Timeless", great choice of car to make the timeless statement. Check it out and enjoy. https://youtu.be/UwstE7P6Gas?si=6C6soHIKRU_7KrSf

Did a very similar exercise on my sunroof with some excellent advice from Locky. Didn't want to weld in place due to the possibility of heat expansion, so glued some supports around the internals of the opening and glued the old solid sunroof into the opening using Sikapower 4720. This is a 2 part product which does not move once it has set. Used a U-POL D Fine Metallic Polyester Filler Paste to build up the major gaps between the roof and the old sunroof. Then a couple of coverings of Rage Gold over the entire area and any other areas where there were imperfections. Lots (and lots) of sanding/filling/sanding to maintain the contours of the roof and finally got a finish I was comfortable with. Then onto priming and painting. Note: this was the first stage of filling/sanding. Didn't take final photo of this process, but the filled and sanded area was a bit bigger. The entire structure has not moved, is as solid as a rock, there is no cracking and the roof, with lining on the inside, has none of that tinny sound when you tap on it. Very pleased with the outcome, so thanks again Locky for the guidance.

Hi Lachlan I used the reference below to get started: https://tecb.eu/onewebmedia/Tuning_SU_Carbs.pdf - Section III Tuning Multiple Carburetters Also a really good section on tuning in this: https://www.amazon.com.au/Carburettor-High-Performance-Manual/dp/1787111687 The pdf above is a good starting point, but I found the following things, which were not necessarily in the instructions, but were covered in the second manual, critical to getting things to work: 1. Fuel levels in each bowl must be at the same height. Let them fill up, take the top off and physically measure the level. I used an electronic vernier calliper to measure this accurately. 2. Height of jet below the bridge for both carbs must be the same. Again, measure with the callipers at step 17. 3. Each carby has to be adjusted individually, so critical to slacken both the clamping bolts as per step 19.What you do on one carb, adjustment wise, you have to duplicate on the other. 4. You might be able to adjust the suction using the pipe as in step 20, but you are better off getting one of these: https://www.weberperformance.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=7 which you can get off eBay as well. Good luck. It 's easy once you've done it and got it right, but getting there can be a challenge. Paul

Update: Managed to source one through Rob at the Z Factory.

Wanting to source one of the chrome top corner pieces on the rear hatch of a 260 2+2. I think the 2 seater would be the same. Let me know if you have one you want to get rid of. Sorry image is on its side, but the car is on all 4 wheels. Almost there !!!

Legend. Thanks Locky.

Sorry guys I lied. Have found a couple more bits that I need help identifying. Can anyone ID these items for me please. It's a 77 2+2. 2.0, 1.8 and 1.2 refer to thickness others are L X W 2.0 Any help appreciated. Cheers Paul

Thanks Linton, my sanity has been restored, although some who know me may disagree! Your knowledge is invaluable. This is the final missing piece to the puzzle, so can move forward now. Thanks again. Cheers Paul

Hi guys Need help identifying where the attached washers/seals/spacers/? go. For some reason I had these bundled separately to all my other grouped bits and I just can't remember where they came from (old timers disease, I think). They are a firm rubber, but they are pliable. Outside diameter is 40mm, inside 17mm and 23mm across the raised sections. Car is a 77 2+2, commonly referred to as the Bus by Locky. Any suggestions really appreciated. It's driving me nuts. Cheers Paul

Thanks Luke, will check them out.

I have one of these on the 77 2+2 I am currently restoring. Apparently they were installed at the factory on later cars to address a "clunk" and/or vibration coming from the diff/rear end. They also fitted them after sales if the customer complained of a clunk or vibration end the rear. They are referred to as a diff counterbalance. Don't know how effective they are, but from what I have read it seems the main issue was with the automatics, but mine (and a number of the other contributors to this information) is and has always been a manual. So mine probably added as a result of a complaint after sales. Hope that clears it up. Cheers Paul

Out of interest, where did you source the headlights from? I'm looking at something similar for my rebuild.

OK, mystery solved. For anyone interested, this is a support for the rear seat in the 2+2. When I bought the car the rear had been pulled out by the PO and all the bits stored in a box. There was also a different seat base from another vehicle included and this support came as part of that. Somehow it got mixed up with my dash stuff in the storage process. Apologies for any confusion. Freddo still safely ensconced in the fridge. Cheers Paul

Hi guys Reassembling my dash and interior and this bracket was in with those parts, but I can't work out where it goes. Size of one face is 75mm x 60mm and other face is 75mm x 80mm - this face has a plastic covering which probably stops whatever (I presume) is resting on it from sliding around. First in with correct answer gets the Freddo. Cheers Paul

Great, thanks Locky, just what I was looking for. Cheers Paul

Hey Wags, just wondering where you bought the USB outlet you installed under the cigarette lighter in your car. Want to do the same thing but all I can find online is USB's with coloured lights, bells, gauges and whistles - not the look I want. Cheers Paul

Well done guys. The finished product is a credit to you both and all those involved.

OK guys, a little challenge. Does anyone know of anyone in OZ who might be able to supply a replacement rectifier (see below) for the alternator in my 1977 260z? These Hitachi units were used in a number of vehicles so I would have thought there would be some demand for parts for them. Have stripped down, cleaned up, polished up and plated some parts up on my old alternator and just need one of these to finish the job off. I can get them out of the US but the postage just irks me so if I can find a local supplier I'm a happy camper. I can also buy a new alternator, but trying to keep things original. There has to be someone around who has a stash and would be prepared to part with one. Maybe, maybe not! Cheers Paul https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiJtaS6m8L0AhUHmGYCHV-sB78YABAHGgJzbQ&ae=2&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESQeD2LStrzajKRmYRutqiqM7merPgyKRsJmL6weN2zL_tnYzfmL4UbqYDcmwHT5hka3a89IdBm81aQGcFIRymoW6a&sig=AOD64_1IpotTKyWMqaEVbReqB7T1JJdnHA&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwiR9Zy6m8L0AhWkUWwGHdGSAbEQ9aACegQIARBE&adurl=

Another option perhaps. US based, but in Oz. Not sure of quality etc. research required. https://www.energysusp.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=255&products_id=7802

I will be writing up the process of restoring the original struts and dampers that I went through sometime in the future. Mine worked out well but want to be sure they work as they should and can't do that until the car is back on the road. As a matter of interest, I used fork oil purchased from Honda Motorcycle Shop to refill mine. Not sure of the difference between that and ATF, but the 320ml is the same for both the front and back even though (in my case) they were different lengths.

Check this post. Might have something you are looking for. There are some photos in here which might be helpful. https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/21227-original-strut-rebuild/?tab=comments#comment-221250 Cheers Paul

Good call Rudi. Save yourself a grand or so and it's not difficult - just takes time. Have done all the stripping out, filling with expandafoam and final filling on mine and have it ready for the final finish. A mate of mine did his and he put a very light cloth (4 ounce from memory) and an epoxy resin over the top of all the repairs and then a final spray which looks really good, but does have a slight texture but not that original textured look. It will never crack with the cloth and resin in place. Thinking of doing the same, but want to replicate the textured look of the original dash. One of the guys on here did a bedliner finish and I did enquire how that had stood the test of time, but haven't heard anything back, so still in decide mode. Have a crack, Nothing to lose.

Good find!! Thanks mate, I'll be using that.

Hi Jeff. Been a couple of years now since you did your dash and was hoping you could give me some feedback on how it has stood the test of time. I've done mine up to the point of putting the final coat on and just deciding if bed armour is the way to go. Thanks Paul

That's Lucky without a U