RestoZ

Oops, here is the post https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/39665-240z-factory-cartridge-type-shock-absorber/

I have the bigger 56mm ones. There was a thread on here which did mention volumes, but it was a very early thread and I doubt the volumes related to these later struts. Have looked on the net, but can't see anything referring to a internal strut rebuild kit. Only had a quick look, so will look again tonight. I did find this, but not sure if it relates to the later shocks - I don't think so, but will see if I can access a later manual.

Hi Guys Making progress on the resto and lovin' it. Doing a number of things, but the main item at the moment is sandblasting, stripping and preparing the suspension components for respraying. In the process, I've removed the original strut inserts thinking I would simply replace them with KYB's or some other brand of insert that was appropriate. Being the curious type thought I would pull the originals apart and see if perhaps they might be salvageable. While the oil was shot and there was some build up of crud in the internals, it seems the majority of the components (of which there aren't many) aren't in bad shape at all. I've had a look through the threads on suspension, but can't see anything specifically relating to this type of rebuild. The main issue I found was the crud had blocked the holes on the piston/main valve at the bottom of the shaft and that would have prevented the flow of oil from one part of the unit to the other. Simple enough to clean out once disassembled. And, I think, the reason why the shocks felt stuffed. There are 3 seals in the unit - one on the piston/valve, one which sits under the main insert retainer and one inside the retainer itself The only one I am worried about is the one on the piston/valve (see above on the right) which seems to be made of nylon or something like it. The other two rubber seals seem fine but I can't tell if this one is sealing or not. So, a couple of questions: Has anyone done this repair previously? Can you buy a kit of seals and if so where can you get it? Is it worth mucking around or should I just go buy new inserts? Is there any info available on volumes of oil etc? In this build I am trying to keep as much original as possible, so if that means a bit of mucking around and getting things working again, that is the way I would prefer to go rather than the buy and replace approach. Thanks Paul

Thanks Guys, really appreciate your input. It seems from what you are saying, that it is possible to fit either the 240 or 260 air cleaner, albeit with a bit of modification, which I'm comfortable doing, assuming it involves a bit of cutting, drilling, welding and filling to get the apertures lining up with the carby intakes. I'll keep an eye out for suitable air cleaners during the ongoing restoration and see what I can do once I'm able to source one. Off to Datsun in the Park this Sunday in Perth, so will see what others have done to address the issue and perhaps get some idea of what's involved. Once again, thanks muchly. Paul

Just a thought, will the original air cleaner from an Oz 260z bolt up to the round top SU's? or am I better off sticking with individual ones for each carb? Secondly, are the elements for the original air cleaner available in Oz?

Good point Gilltech!!! When I bought the car, it came with one half round foam cleaner on one carby and nothing on the other, so that's going in the bin. I am on the lookout for a genuine 260z air cleaner 'cos, as I've said previously, while it won't be concourse, I want to keep it as close to original as possible. So, if anyone has one they are wanting to get rid of, let me know.

Before I go much further, think I will talk to one of the inspectors and try to find out what they might nail me on. Things have changed in WA over the past couple of years and inspections for new licenses/relicenses are now done by private contractors rather than Department of Transport. Have dealt with DoT previously and they were extremely pedantic an absolute pain the bumb. Hopefully, things are a bit more relaxed these days. Will keep an eye out for a 240z balance tube to fit after the car is licensed. I'll be looking at a good set of headers at that point, so will sort the whole thing at once. Thanks for the link above AndBir. Really, really good set of videos provided by this guy. He really knows his stuff and the info has been invaluable for a SU first timer. Will be working through the processes he has outlined when I get to that point. Thanks for the info guys, much appreciated.

Thanks for your responses guys. I will have to go through the process of registering the car in WA once it is all finished and I know the inspection boys have been very particular in the past about not making any changes to the emission system. Consequently, think I will have to at least present it all sufficiently intact to get it past that process. Once licensed, I can look at making some changes in that area. If someone in WA thinks this situation has changed (it's been a while since I've been through the process) can you let me know 'cos getting rid of all that plumbing is ultimately where I want to end up. Fortunately, the core plugs are all located in inconspicuous spots, out of sight, so if I'm not able to source replacements, it's not a major issue, I'll just leave them out. I would prefer to replace them though, so if anyone knows where I might be able to source them, please let me know. It's interesting about the carbs. The car has had a few owners in its lifetime, mainly in Qld, so I would say they were swapped over there at some point. The id tag on the right side carby is AUD330R, which appears to come from a 69-71 Rover 2000 TC. Will need to check the jetting to make sure it is correct. Good new is the flat tops have gone and the SU's hopefully will be a bit simpler to manage and the performance a bit better. No desire to go concours, but I do want to keep it as close to original as possible with a few niceties to make life comfortable when out and about. Once again, thanks for your input. I'm new to the Z world and appreciate all the feedback I can get. Cheers Paul

Hi All, Have been doing a bit of work on my SU's and manifolds, zinc plating and passivating various bits and in the process have discovered the connecting pipe which runs between both carbies is rusted out, as is one of the inlet pipes and two core plugs - one in the inlet manifold and one in the emissions manifold (yes, she's a 77 GSR30 2+2, complete with all the emissions gear). The pictures below show the story. I have a couple of questions: I read in a recent post (which I can't for the life of me find again) in which someone was querying where things went on the same carby setup as mine. In one of the responses, there was reference to the fact that "noone uses the water connections to the manifold". You can see in the pics below that the water inlet pipe on the right has rusted out in the Inlet Manifold Before pic and if it is not required, I would prefer just to plug it up. Same with the joiner tube between the left and right manifolds as shown in the Carby Manifold and Joiner Tube pic below. I think I read somewhere the purpose of running water through these was to assist with warming of the manifolds, which in Oz isn't really an issue and certainly not in Perth - is that correct? Secondly, does anyone know where I can get the core plugs in the carby and emissions manifolds. I realise if I'm not running any water, then they probably aren't necessary, but would prefer to block them off if I can. As a matter of interest, carby and manifold cleanup was done using soda in the sand blasting cabinet and the zinc plating and gold passivating was done after about 2 months of trial and error with my home plating setup. Will be rerunning a couple of the bits and have some more to do to finish these off, but getting there. Cheers Paul

Hi Craig Do you have anymore of the fans listed above? Still $75? Cheers Paul

Thanks, appreciate the response. I suspect over the years the two have parted company on both doors so will have to address. I have been raiding the local panel beater's dump bin which is full of old doors and I see on modern cars they put big blobs of a sticky glue which sets but is still pliable so will see if I can find out what that is and post it back on here. Thanks again.

Hi Guys have been through the threads on door skin replacement but cant see where mention is made of any attachment to the horizontal centre spar which runs across the middle of the door frame. I'm stripping my doors (and the rest of the car) and my skins seem a bit floppy, but if I push them back to the spar they seem quite rigid. Should they be attached to the spar and if so what is the best product to use to do that? Car is a 77 260z 2+2. Thanks Paul

Thanks Dave, the roughing up and scraper made all the difference. Sheez, that stuff is tough! I'll have a crack at the dings tomorrow and see how we go. Ouch C.A.F!! If I did that I'd have to throw the rest of the car in behind it. This is probably one of the better panels and anyway I haven't got a big enough bin. Guess if I was paying someone by the hour to strip this back, your suggestion would be the way to go. But given I'm retired, have plenty of time on my hands (particularly with winter coming up), my hourly rate is zero and I don't like to be beaten by these things, think I'll persevere. Still a way to go but getting there:

Hi Guys Started a full resto on my recently purchased 77 GSR30 a couple of weeks ago and have now got to the bonnet which is proving a challenge. I'm using paint stripper and mechanical follow up with a grinder and wire wheel. I did the front guards and the nose cones without any major issues but did need to do up to 3 runs with the stripper (Poly Stripper - Dichlormethane) and then a final run over with the wire wheel. This car has had 3 paint jobs in its life by the look of things and the second one looks to be a 2 pack which has set like a rock on the bonnet and probably on the roof and doors when I get to them. The top coat which is crazed and peeling comes off easily, as does the first coat once you get the 2 pack off. The picture below shows my attempts at softening the yellow 2 pack layer and the result I get on the right with the grinder and wheel after the top green coat is removed with stripper. the shiny finish on the left is a test with 120 grit in the orbital sander. I'm conscious of the heat issue with the grinder and as constantly cooling with a damp rag and moving to different parts to limit the amount of heat I'm generating. The $64,000 question: is this approach ok, or am I doing some sort of irreparable damage? Does the second coat seem like a 2 pack and that' s why it is so hard to remove? Third question, what is the purple coloured finish on the right? On a different note, there are a couple of significant dings on the leading edge of the bonnet and I was hoping I could get some advice as to the best way to attack them. Have attached close ups below and thought maybe I could run a fine cut along the top edge so I could pull the front out and knock the top down then patch and fill. Not sure if that would work so any suggestions would be most appreciated. Thanks again. Cheers Paul

Hi Gav, Another small donation from me. Only been on for a week or so but benefits far outweigh. Cheers Paul

Thanks Craig, think I will go with the Tridon brand and keep it standard (sort of anyway). How do I arrange payment? Do you send me your bank account details? Haven't done this before and new to the site, so bear with me. Cheers Paul

Hi Craig Do you still have some of these available? I'm chasing timing case cooling housing, top thermostat housing and lower thermostat housing. Also if you have a standard thermostat, I need one of those as well. Cheers Paul