Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


  • Rank
    Advanced Member

member details

  • Location
    Perth wa
  • Tagline
    New Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi Gerson do you plan on making rear lower valance sections? I recently purchased a heap of your panels and was very impressed.
  2. Ok interesting so did you go polys just for the steering links/rack? So Andy you went oems throughout as well? Ryan
  3. Wow, very interesting, I thought you definitely would have had poly bushings to handle all that m3 power! Ive personally never had poly bushings on my road cars. I hear they can be noisy if not greased up. Would be interesting to know whether most cars are running oems or poly, I just took it for granted everyone installed polyurethane. Ryan
  4. Don’t quote me but I believe they are the same as all the sites list the panels to suit 69-78 models. What about your inner rockers, are they ok? Peel back the vinyl between your door sill and the floor pan, should be a panel with holes in it. Get a torch in their and check it out. Ryan
  5. Nice project man, defs manual conversion! How serious of a resto are you going to do? Are you going back to bare metal and full respray? Or are you doing just exterior and engine bay? Have you checked the rest of the problem spots on the car? Doglegs, rear arches, rear slam panel, floor pans etc your engine will be done way before the bodywork lol You can get front guard repair sections from MSA aka the z store, they are tabco panels from my research, you can get the panels direct from tabco but good luck with that, their customer service is terrible. Can you do your own body work or willing to try? Getting someone to do it properly costs a fortune. You can get battery tray replacement panels, the tray itself from MSA if yours is too far gone, and the wheel well section underneath but I forget who sells them and whether it’s for both LHD & RHD. You can get outer sill replacement panels from MSA as well (tabco again) or go KFvintagejdm, KF is a newish supplier but I ordered panels from them and they’re very high quality (haven’t fitted mine yet though) if your chassis rails are gone, zedd findings does replacements, MSA also stocks them but add their mark up to it. Apparently these require further modifications and aren’t completely oem. What will kill the pocket is the shipping costs. Especially if you order from three different vendors. May be worth just getting majority from MSA. Good luck Ryan
  6. I haven’t read anything yet a regarding oem rear/front lower control bushes. The only ones I have read that people recommend oem over polyurethane bushings are: - one side of the the tension rods bushings so your tension rods don’t snap - the moustache bar bushing to reduce NVH - engine mounts to reduce NVH Obviously if you value performance over lower levels of NVH then you would go urethane. Anybody able to verify the above as truth, as I am only repeating what I have read so far on the interwebs...
  7. I’ve started a spreadsheet (coz I’m that kinda guy...) with parts needed, jobs to do and total costs, but I’ve just been chucking in the brands/suppliers I’m leaning towards so far. But Probably a good idea to add more options and comments as you say. Cheers for the hot tip! What kit did you use?
  8. Hi all I was trying to find a definitive bushing kit thread but couldn't seem to find anything using the search bar Is there an accepted best on ground for Polyurethane Bushing Kits? Or is it a case of same same for all the majors? I am obviously a loooooooooooong way off needing a bushing kit but thought Id start my research. Im currently looking at the: T3 PROTHANE kit costs $165 USD Z car depot Energy Bushing Kit $218 USD Energy suspension kit seems to be very popular in the US of A. Anybody had any Australian experience with either kit or recommend the kit they used? Ryan
  9. And they’re here! Well mostly, outer sills didn’t arrive...
  10. Hi all just thought I would take the time to share my first parts purchase for Sheena! So excited! so purchased these rust replacement panels from KFvintageJDM based on a few people speaking highly of the quality on this forum and other forums. And they were not wrong! Initial impressions is that these are indeed high quality panels. But I will let the photos do the talking... now my car is not at my place so I was unable to make a direct comparison. But I will when I go there next week and post photos. Oh no white powder found AndBir! Damn! pablo the frenchie was not as excited as I was... so I purchased floors, chassis rails, front inner rocker reinforcements, seat mounts, toe and rear boards and outer sills (still waiting on them to arrive, for some reason the two pieces were split up at some point....just arrived in nsw today apparently) inner rocker reinforcements look good, fairly oem looking to me (not an expert), I haven’t actually seen mine yet so may not need these but will see, I think I will... there looks to be extra material for trimming and fitting LHS toe board fitment looks reasonable. As with any replacement panel work will need to be done to make it fit. (So I’ve read ) I’m not sure if the flange on the rear and front of the floor pans are extra material to be trimmed, see when fitment comes. Rhs rear boards fitment isn’t great, lots of trimming and convincing will be required. To me these looked hand formed not a complete press like the floors. Center bead is pressed. Rhs rear braces don’t fit well, however I wasn’t sure on the exact placement/position it’s supposed to be in. LHS seems to be better. Modifications required. Tbh rear braces on my car are so deformed and rusted I don’t know what the fitment is supposed to look like. Seat mounts look good, fit well and have the extra bracing skin as well. I don’t know yet whether I need these or whether I can reuse mine, my floors are particularly terrible so I just ordered and can sell them on if I don’t end up using them. front seat rails on both sides are ok but not sure about the gap in the corner on the outer sides. Was there a gap in the corner from factory? Maybe someone experienced can comment? chassis rails look nice! The ends are hand made and not pressed so there is variation, LHS doesn’t fit as well as RHS. But nothing that can’t be fixed. view of the underside of the floor pan. Very oem finish in my opinion, compared to other floor pans on the market. Yet to be seen how it fits though. Overall very impressed with these panels. There is evidence that a lot of handforming is done as there seems to be a variance between panels and some welding is visible. But honestly I’m not too fussed. I found kfvintagejdm to have very good customer service. Total shipping (including outer sills which haven’t arrived was $532 USD. Total landed cost in AUD was $2637. Took under two weeks to arrive. 4 days to get from Colombia to Australia and 8 days to get from nsw to perth.....go figure... Packaging could be improved with a wrap over each floor pan but nothing was damaged so is it really necessary? All other items were wrapped in brown paper and plastic wrapped. Obviously paint gets scratched in transit but paint will be removed before priming anyway. I will update this post when my sills arrive hopefully in the next week.
  11. Wow gav, amazing answer, thanks for taking the time out to reply in detail. I really admire your dedication to high quality work, it’s inspiring to someone just starting out. I must go through your whole build thread, I’ve peeked at bits and pieces. I’m actually considering safari gold myself! I really want to rebuild my su’s myself but I am a high level amateur! Was actually asking about the DIY rebuild kit from Z therapy as I want to do the rebuild and Ztherapy is the kit everyone recommends. Do you think an amateur could successfully do the rebuild? Shipping costs would be huge to send carbs there and back, what did you end up paying if you don’t mind me asking? To be honest long term I was considering triple Weber’s but mostly because it seems to be the thing everyone goes for. Due to my car being non matching numbers I’m not overly concerned about originality. Tbh I have no idea the differences in the way they work. Probably something I need to research. Premise would be the same as any carby but why do people go to Weber’s, I assumed because they offer more horsepower. However I’ve heard they very temperamental. Do you think the roller bearing mod is critical?
  12. Wow gav these look the biz.... very impressive, this will be the standard I will be working to!
  13. Another update, my KFvintagejdm rust replacement panels are in perth! Funny it takes under 5 days to get to Australia and then the brakes get applied, been in oz for 5 days now. Possibly will get delivered tomorrow but if not I might see if I can pick up Tuesday as I fly home Tuesday morning!
  • Create New...