Jump to content

240ZBUILTBYME

Members
  • Content Count

    175
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

240ZBUILTBYME last won the day on December 16 2020

240ZBUILTBYME had the most liked content!

About 240ZBUILTBYME

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

member details

  • Location
    Perth wa
  • Tagline
    New Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Can anyone comment on whether that join that mike is working on, is the join of the roof skin to A pillar skin is meant to be lead filled? Or welded together?
  2. Great work on the roof patch. Looks like your roof is much like mine, probably less rusty. Mine has surface rust hiding between the frame and skin too, I was lucky enough to get my hands on a spare replacement skin in decent enough condition. Hahahaha it’s such a silly mistake, and once you make it you’re like “how could I have been so dumb!?” I guarantee neither of us will make that mistake again... Ryan
  3. Nice work, you’ve documented it well, I was hoping you were going to say retrospectively! otherwise your speed of progress is somewhat ridiculous! Lol i don’t think I will make as quick progress as you are, your metal work skills are quite amazing considering you haven’t done this before, well at least you made it sound like you hadn’t. ryan
  4. Great thread Mike! Very funny. Grinder and butt welding! Tip of the hat sir... lol Are you writing as you go or are you writing retrospectively? your photos will be invaluable to me for my dog leg repairs... keep up the great work Ryan
  5. thanks mike, but I’m confused lol i only count 5 layers in there... do you have any pics from your repair? Ryan
  6. I am putting together a comprehensive plan for doing the floors, doglegs, rockers and rear wheels arches. I will post here you all to critique soon. one thing I need to clarify is the sequence of the panels in the very corner of the dogleg. Everything is very rusted and difficult to distinguish. Might need the maestro of metal on this one @C.A.F. starting from the outside: 1.Outer rocker 2. Reinforcement plate/inner dogleg b pillar 3. Outer side of inner wheel arch 4. Inner rocker 5. Inner side of inner wheel arch is this right? Which panel show
  7. Thanks Jeff. Side intrusion bar sounds like a good idea safety wise. I will be following your lead on most of the repairs. I don’t think I can do my floors on the rotisserie, as I am replacing engine bay frame rails as well which means replacing/repairing floors before frame rails can go in. To replace frame rails I need it on the chassis jig.
  8. Hey Mike What I will be doing is a little more complicated than just rockers, there are several layer of metal in that dogleg corner that will need to be replaced. I have studied Jeff’s thread at great length and will be doing similar repairs though I think my rust is worse
  9. Sooo plan has to change.... lol Went and visited the car today, started making a plan for replacing the floors and on further inspection, the doglegs and surrounding structure are rustier than I thought. I cut out a hole in the dogleg to get a better look and found this is what I found. and it’s much the same on the other side. some of the inner rocker and inner reinforcement (panel wedged between inner and outer rocker) has rotted away. So to do the floors I need to sort all this out as well otherwise I have nothing to weld my floors to..... it’s like a thread pull t
  10. Hi all wondering if I can get some opinions on my plan going forward with the bodywork for Sheena. Will be knocking off the chassis jig and looking at starting Some rust repair. my plan going forward is: -replace floors, chassis rails and frame rails while the car is on the chassis jig holding everything together. I know it would be so much easier doing this work on a rotisserie but I don’t trust the strength of the shell with the spine of the car ripped out. my sequence plan for each side is: 1. rip out chassis rail 2. Replace floor pan 3. Rip ou
  11. Hey Lurch and any other experts, the front and rear of the original floor pans had lapped joins from factory right? If you replace the floors on projects do you keep these lap joins or do you convert to butt welds? ryan
  12. Hahaha that’s so funny, I found the service so good! I guess living there is different to holidaying. I can only speak to restaurants and retail really. Ryan
  13. Mate I’d go with the KF vintage jdm ones they make them now, when I ordered my ones from MSA, KF were not yet making front fender panels. If they were I would have ordered through them, the quality is miles above tabco or rare spares. Even comes with the inside panel. Check them out. I never paid any import duties or tax on any of my panels. I personally haven’t heard anything good about any of the rare spares panels beside the door skin. By the time you buy L&R panels from rare spares you’re paying $330. I dare say including shipping KF would still be better and cheaper. Ju
  14. Yes, they are, I always thought the US had great customer service, I did when I was there anyway, obviously this doesn’t carry over to the online world. I would have gotten these sections from KF if they had them, they will be making them at some point, they’re adding new sections all the time. tabco is going to lose a lot of business to KF.
  15. More pieces of the jigsaw puzzle arrived this week. I can’t wait to get stuck into the rust repair. Can I just vent a little and say that MSA aka the z store is the worst company to deal with and has the worst customer service I’ve ever experienced. Took them 6 months to get these to me. In the end I didn’t even get an email from them to say your panels arrived and have been shipped sorry for the inconvenience. Just received a notification from fed ex that I had a package on the way. Useless.... Ryan
×
×
  • Create New...