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240ZBUILTBYME last won the day on July 16

240ZBUILTBYME had the most liked content!


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    Perth wa
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  1. Thank god for this rusty car. It’s rusty in all the same spots as mine! So I get to see how it needs to be done! Well done Lachy without a U
  2. I’ve just accepted I’ll be paying a shitload in shipping over the build. Can’t escape it so just have to embrace the no lube reaming we get for being so far away. I have an excel parts list and the supplier I want to purchase from, then when I decide to buy something from them I make sure I buy all the parts on my list from them so I can consolidate on the shipping
  3. I’ve yet to see someone not charge me for internal shipping! Which suppliers are these!? ive used shipito before. They offer consolidation but I believe you have to pay extra for that premium service. The standard free shipito account only holds your items for a short amount of time. I think a week or two? So you have to take into account lead times from the various vendors and if they have stock etc. Yes that’s how it works. I believe it’s by item? But don’t quote me. I’ve had lots of orders over 1k and not been charged any import tax/duties or gst. I’ve brought in over 5k worth (separate orders and suppliers) of repair panels and not been charged anything. Maybe WA customs are slack?
  4. Also update on my bashed up headers. Les sent me another set of secondaries as they were the ones that were badly dented. just be advised if you purchase headers from him that you will need to specify that you want them undinged. He does not treat these as a cosmetic part and he states that the dents happen during manufacturing and do not affect the function of the header. Make of that what you will... I also got the laser level out and checked the level of the bumper bolts and surrounding structure. All looked good from a level perspective.
  5. Didn’t get a great deal of time this break, only managed a few precious hours with Sheena. I’ve lost a tonne of sleep lately, tossing and turning in bed scheming and stressing about how I’m going to do this job! Anyone else do that? I’m sure I’m not the only one... I ground down all the proud spot welds and gave the front face and what I could reach a good wire wheeling. I bolted the repair pane in, marked the cut line and made the finaL cut. All the while shitting myself... cut was good with more room for access I went to work cleaning the box section as best I could. Came up ok and revealed many new holes where rust had eaten through. Question. Can I just fill any small holes with the mig? Given I use a rust converter and ensure the welding surface is free of any rust? I was keen to get a coating on the box section but with the rust that needs repairing I figured I would save it for once those were done. I was thinking of trying a spot blaster to further tidy up the unreachable areas in the box section. Has anyone used something like these? I know they’re generally crap but are they good enough to do some small areas? next time I plan to: - repair rusted through areas on the box section (I think I’ll be lucky to get through this as will be my first time welding in patch panels....wish me luck....) - hopefully get some kbs rustseal in there
  6. Looks in good nick... same color combo as mine. interested to see what it goes for. I think people are going to realize the potential of these cars soon and how affordable they currently are. All the complaints with them are now fixable. Soft handling, coilovers and suspension upgrades are now available. Slow and sluggish, get an EFI 300hp LCR build, or all the bits from Godzilla racing and protunerz for a turbo conversion and it won’t be slow anymore.... more and more suppliers making quality aftermarket parts. Plus being L series lots of interchangeable bits. If you’re after a classic z and can’t afford a 240z/260z you’d be crazy to pass on the 280zx.
  7. I need to do this exact same thing to repair mine, wanted to take that panel off exactly as you have, but I’d never seen it done. Good to know it’s doable! Great work!
  8. I believe that’s a stock join isn’t it? From memory it’s the join of the a pillar and air plenum that goes the the nose of the car.
  9. New record on BAT for 280zx’s. and that’s USD!
  10. If that was in perth I’d consider buying it. Looks in a lot better nick rust wise than my car!
  11. I’m looking at doing something similar with mine when the time comes. Alternative quality products to replace the vinyl. If you had good quality stuff for a fair price I’d consider buying as opposed to making myself. I like the carbon signal covered dash, better than flocking. But I don’t know why you would want to cover up the dash, it’s beautiful once professionally reskinned! Just My opinion...
  12. Let’s hope porsches synthetic fuel venture pays off...
  13. I’ve always wondered the same thing. Eventually there will only be petrol enthusiast cars on the road if the government doesn’t outlaw them altogether. Which I doubt they will do. The emissions from enthusiast cars only would be nothing. So I imagine only a few companies will still bother manufacturing it. Wonder what the $/Litre cost will be... on another note. Go and buy all the 924/944s. They’re about to double in value... an entertaining video
  14. So got a little bit done this week, was distracted by the company of @AndBir and @RestoZ. It’s amazing how 4 hours can disappear just talking about z’s! Managed to remove the rear valance panel! Great Success! Used a combination of methods. These are the first spot welds I’ve ever removed so wanted to try them all. Used the rotabroach cutter style, the specialty drill bit type and the finger file sander. This is what my experience was with each: Rota broach/cutter type I used this specific set so not the el cheapo type off eBay. I found these difficult to use, they don’t work well on plug welds which I had a few of. they like to walk on uneven surfaces. But if your panel is flat and they are factory spot welds these do ok. You must use a center punch the specialty drill bit type this worked really well and I preferred them to the cutter style. Cut quickly and don’t mind uneven surfaces, don’t walk on you either. best on factory spot welds, they didn’t do well on the plug welds due to the small diameter. Must use a center punch too the finger file sander Bought this specific one from bunnings 60$, wanted a cheap one to try out to see if it would be worth the money buying a more expensive air one once I get my compressor. And it is great for grinding out spot welds! Catch is it will leave massive square holes in the top panel, but if you’re not reusing the top panel this is a great option. It’s very quick, I was using 40grit, easy to see when you have ground enough of the spot weld away, leaves the bottom panel in perfect condition. This one did the job but lacked a bit of power, occasionally stopped turning if you put too much pressure on but made up for it with its light weight. Had to remove the clips that hold the.... I’ve had a mental blank.... rear dress up panels that go around the tail lights. As I will be using the whole of the repair panel which will require a cut along the top edge where those clips sit. As expected it’s rather rusty in the box section behind, some rust has made it all the way through. comparison of stock valance vs Auto panel solutions repair panel. High quality product. RHS looks like it has a minor nudge. Some rudimentary measurements show it’s out by 3-4mm. Not too bad. I’m thinking a big hammer should convince it. First mock up of the panel. Need to buy more vice grips for convincing it into position. next up I plan to: - convince the panel into position then test fit the automobile rear bumper to make sure there are no dramas there - mark and cut top edge where panel will end up - clean up the box section, carry out repairs on the rust holes - kbs rust blast then kbs rust seal the internal box section
  15. Cheers matey! But this is only the shift boot, not the surrounding plastic trim. Contacted this seller
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