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gilltech last won the day on March 13

gilltech had the most liked content!

About gilltech

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  1. Interesting, but no surprises there. Yet if you recall about this time last year a certain new forum member was loudly and persistently proclaiming that our beloved hobby cars can't be worth anything like the advertised asking prices as they're only Datsuns after all. Also saying that by year's end car values will have crashed thanks to pandemic-induced panic selling and he'll have the pick of the crop for a bargain. He couldn't have been more wrong.
  2. Could always be worse... https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/brendale/cars-vans-utes/datsun-260z-wreck-no-gearbox-has-carbs-1000/1273816746
  3. So it's true what I've heard then that Range Rovers make for good anchors... Nice work NickF.
  4. Jeez, surely that shell is way too far gone to go to all that trouble... every last section of metal is rust pitted. And is the guy just lining it all up again by eye? I don't see any reference profiles anywhere.
  5. Yours were plated? Looks better, whereas mine (RS30) were factory painted on the car, underneath is just the factory cream coloured primer.
  6. I can just slip a piece of 7mm ply into the gap like a feeler gauge, at closest point, so allowing for paint and underseal, I'd say 8-9mm is all.
  7. Some Zeds, maybe it was just the early ones, had that twistknob rather than a key lock.
  8. Am old school but bi-lingual in metric and imperial. Yes, 10mm or maybe less. I could try using a thin bit of wood as a feeler gauge..(!!). the fuel tank is in the way so hard to access up in there... will look again tomorrow with my lead light. If your car has taken a nudge in the back then check out the boot floor for any ripples, and how much 'crush' where the taillight panel is pushed against the curve of the spare wheel well, may help you decide what side or where the impact happened, and work back from there.
  9. My 260 2-seat is on jack stands at present to replace perished exhaust hangers so I took a look as the back of my car is undamaged. Reaching up between fuel tank and valance, I can't quite fit my fingers between the rail and the wheel well at tightest point. So even if your rail is out of shape I doubt that it's as far bent inwards as you think. Hopefully someone here can provide you with a definitive measurement.
  10. It all depends which diff you intend to use, doesn't it? The R180 vs the heavier (and longer) R200 installed on many of the manual 260Zs.
  11. ? ? ? (Confused). So you have two shells, is the grey primer one not the better of the two then?
  12. Good luck finding one! Better you fix what you've got rather than do a cut'n'shut anyway. And it's not like it's completely rotted out going by the photos. I suggest you measure it all up and compare to the factory specs to see if it's within tolerances or whether the basic structure has to be pushed/pulled on a chassis aligner to tweak it, before you lock it into your jig and rotisserie structure. But the way you're going with all this is a credit to you.
  13. Sorry if getting off topic, but how does one tell the 260Z, 240K and 280ZX gearboxes apart, externally, again? Something to do with the position of the oil filler, or is it the speedo drive? Just curious.
  14. Correct. Which is why lubrication of the base plate to allow the single cylinder, and brake shoes, to react and slide as required is so important. All detailed in the manuals. But, look, if you've got a set of rear brakes off a '77/'78 car to hand then by all means use them, assuming you can recondition or renew the double cylinders. If you haven't, you may struggle to find some, as AFAIK there weren't many late 260Zs sold in Australia. Much easier for the enthusiasts in the USA with their much larger supply of late 280Zs and availability of parts. Unless you're hell bent on having r
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