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gilltech last won the day on April 10 2022

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  1. Do you mean the alignment rollers? Best get new, available from USA suppliers.
  2. Speaking from past experience, just get new bolts of correct size & enough thread length & cut the heads off, & tidy up the cut thread ends as required; note: make sure they are High Tensile steel as normal mild steel won't be adequate for the application. My 2c worth anyway.
  3. Hmmm... that rust looks pretty well ingrained on the shell's metal panels which are not exactly thick to begin with. The rust hole is a red flag for starters. If it were me I'd use fibrous strip disks on the shell to see how deep the scarring and pitting of the metal is. Then make a call whether to go further or walk away. Whatever rust still remained ingrained would have to be well treated with a proprietary inhibitor product to, hopefully, kill it off and seal it up prior to bodywork and painting.
  4. Ah, I think those are early 240Z seats? The twist adjusters are normally on the outside. Mine are different, with lever type adjusters mounted on the lower squab, down at sill level.
  5. Good question. But surely the seats are handed in frame construction, and I'd have thought the seat back adjusters need to stay on the outside for access, else could foul the tunnel and seatbelts? But hey, give it a try.
  6. The two variations of wiring plugs are completely different designs. My spare switch is the later style, so no good to you. Best you get the correct one so it's plug and play.
  7. I've got the metal retainer plate, in fact a whole mirror. But not the square connector type switch sorry.
  8. The mirror has a metal 3-screw base plate with a black plastic surround trim, are you needing just the metal part or both? I know of two hazard switch 5-pin wiring plug styles, early one being squarish in a beige colour and the later one more rectangular in white. And FWIW my FSM shows the same but with an in-built illumination lamp. What plug style are you wanting to connect to?
  9. Springs can be a messy area. To raise the ride height you will need either longer springs, or stiffer springs, or a combination of both. Of course both are subject to the length of the strut and the strut insert in the first place which affect the amount the springs are pre-loaded when installed. I have tried the KDFL-04 springs but found them too short to be captured by the top and bottom retainers, and that's clearly unsafe - in order to use them I would have to install shorter strut inserts. They were also very stiff - with the car on the ground and trying to bounce it up and down they barely moved. So I gave up on them and had my factory springs reset to the length I wanted instead. If it were me, I'd get hold of a set of factory 260Z springs to put the car back to factory (approx - they will have sagged a little over time anyway) and see how they go for ride height before experimenting with other struts and springs. My 2c worth anyway.
  10. I second CAR's reply above. FWIW, I replaced the 51mm struts in my early '74 260Z 2-seat with the later 55mm struts; they are shorter in overall height plus have a different spring length. They nicely lowered the front down where I like it without any fuss with changing springs. I wouldn't want to go the opposite way. But whatever you decide to do, compare all dimensions first to ensure you will get the ride height you want.
  11. Haha! It is a very nice shade of red after all. Good choice. Many many years ago I once saw a red 240Z, its badges removed and with Ferrari decals on it; a hopeful 'chick magnet' presumably.....
  12. So you're saying that both front AND rear brakes are dragging? For the fronts, check you have fitted the 'right' seals. I had that problem and it turned out to be an aftermarket brand that were very fractionally oversize. Tried a different brand and problem went away. For the rears, have you got the auto adjusters set up correctly? They are activated by the handbrake mechanism and can be a bit touchy, not easy to get both sides acting evenly in my experience.
  13. I think you've summed it up very well. Every car and every enthusiast's situation is unique, so no point in going any further when the OP can simply do his own research and figure out for himself whether to take it further or drop the idea.
  14. I have seen them listed on eBay Australia occasionally. But during Covid in Jan 2021 and wanting to get projects progressed while I had some down time I just used a USA supplier via eBay, sounded like it was a Corvette parts supplier who had them in stock. Airmail posted really didn't cost that much. Caution: Just be careful you get the right pair of kits! Ask me how I know... The '70 to '72 is one set, whereas the '73 is different (as in my case, which I eventually deduced after finding out that my carbs were incorrectly kitted with the front one running very very rich). On a '73 the front carb fuel intake valve is a different length/casting height to the one on the rear carb. A Nissan tweak for something to do with the tilt of the engine, apparently, from what I read online. My 2c worth. Hope that helps some. PS. Just checked my purchase history, Including postage ex USA they cost round about A$90 with the then exchange rate.
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