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gilltech last won the day on February 28

gilltech had the most liked content!

About gilltech

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  • Birthday 05/29/1956

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  1. So that's the early style catch and lock pull presumably. I think '74 would be the same.
  2. Ditto. Not much $$$ I'm afraid as work has dried up for me. But I'll appreciate your site even the more as I sit out the next weeks/months based at home.
  3. Love the green, it really pops in the modern automotive world of mostly very bland white/silver/charcoal/black cars. Very much enjoying your build series. Oh, and a garage floor one could eat one's dinner off. Very tidy.
  4. Congratulations, that's great news! Even more reason for you to go to the nth degree to take care of yourself. I have poor lungs from childhood too. Despite many years of distance running you'd think they'd improve but no they have always been poor at O2 uptake, and now in my 60s I get asthma and respiratory illnesses regularly. So the thought of contracting Covid19 terrifies me as I know too well what it's like to struggle to breathe. We're told that the peak is yet to come. But hopefully 80% and more of the population unselfishly will take heed and stay home and not congregate so the curve does indeed flatten somewhat so if we do go down we can receive the care we need and recover.
  5. Hot dipped galv usually starts off fairly smooth and shiny - 'crystaline' as you aptly describe it - straight out of the bath but soon oxidizes and dulls down in the atmosphere. And depending on variables in quality the colour can vary and be patchy much to architects' disgust. Your dull grey gate and post was probably from older stock before it was finally installed. There are also electroplated zinc coatings used for thin steel sections, such as panels eg. a/c ducts. It's a thin more economical coating really only suitable for interior work. It too has a bright shiny 'crystaline' finish, in fact the term is 'spangled' (lovely word!). But again over time the zinc ever so slowly dulls down even in an internal atmosphere. Contrary to what people might reasonably assume, a weathered matt galvanized surface although it looks suitable for paint to mechanically stick to is not the best surface to paint over. In fact, it best needs to be fresh unoxidized zinc, so an aged coating should be taken back to clean zinc - 'sweep blasted' - before applying a suitable primer within hours not weeks or months, that's if one wants to gain maximum durability. Ditto what 1600Dave says. Paint technology has moved on.
  6. That gate and gate post has clearly been hot dipped galvanized during manufacture, where the zinc coating is bonded to the metal in a galvanizing plant's heated dipping bath. It will be inside the tubes as well, anywhere where the molten zinc could flow and reach. It is not a paint coating. Zinc dissolves with rainwater very very slowly over time. Look at corrugated galvanized iron (cgi) roofing once used on old buildings before Zincalume and Colorbond became available. Over time the zinc literally washes off and the roofing starts to go rusty. And so the roof either gets replaced or painted to make it last a bit longer. In that picture above, the post is still fairly sound although pitted but the eyelets have lost their coating and are rusting. The barbed wire has lost its very much thinner zinc coating long ago and is now badly rusted. 'Cold Galv' is a zinc rich paint typically used in the construction industry to touch up areas - brush or rattle can - where hot dipped galvanized steel items have then had to have further work done exposing some bare steel again, such as welding on-site. Often used on long lengths of handrails for example. But a paint coating even in multiple layers cannot match the longevity of a hot dipped galvanized coating so the make-good work will always be a maintenance item. It's not a good idea to paint over a zinc coating because even through the paint it can react with moisture to form the white salt powder you can see in places in your photo, and any paint coating detaches. Obviously zinc coatings used in inland dry areas will last far longer than in areas where there is moisture such as near the coast, areas of humidity, or where there's rainfall, areas where the majority of us live. It has its place but I wouldn't use Cold Galv except in hidden areas not requiring a visible top coat, like inside doors/hatch as you suggest. And I'd coat it in turn with a rust inhibitor such as Fisholene or Tectyl or whatever. As long as it's applied to well cleaned dry steel and is itself protected it should last well. For painted areas exposed to view use a good quality automotive paint system which includes a high quality metal etch adhesion primer. Apologies for the lecture! My 2c worth.
  7. There would be many many hours of work to repair all that mess. If the 260z front clip you're looking at is an early one and fairly good then you'd be better to put that on IMO, quicker and cheaper and a cleaner end result. Disappointing that the firewall is so rotted. Why do you need a new roof - rust, or replacing due to a sunroof? What are the floors like? Rear chassis rails? Hopefully not more of the same. Interesting to see stitch welds in the RH front corner of the radiator support panel. Why? Has the RH apron section beside it been replaced at some stage?
  8. I see what you have to deal with. Not that unusual though. What is the rear half of the shell like, given the front has had so many rust repairs? Got any photos of the 260z front clip you're looking at? In order to compare.
  9. Aha so it's a S30 with Torana panels not the other way around. Well I have to say I like it! IMO the Torana taillights look way better than those Euro-style round taillight conversion kits that were on the US market years ago.
  10. Depends on the year of 260z and perhaps even which market the car was originally built for. Very early 260s like mine look to be identical to the last of the 240s, whereas the later 260s had a very different radiator support panel. Eg. the black plastic flexi air intakes were deleted, the X-member at the bottom instead of being straight across dips downwards for a taller radiator, and it has different hole and slot shapings. I don't know when the change happened, sometime 1975 or '76? Both types of X-members are prone to rust, be aware of that when buying a front cut. The later X-member requires the later underpan. The early S30 engine bays are a bit 'cleaner' than later ones, as emissions equipment, a/c etc got added to later cars. You wouldn't be the first to do a cut'n'shut 260/240 hybrid were you to graft the whole 260 front on. Personally, I would prefer to graft in the repair panels and patches I needed, being careful to exactly replicate the 240 architecture as I went. Unless of course the whole 240 front end is completely rotten and a replacement front half from a 260 is the only option to hand to save the car. But look it's your car, and your expenditure, so your call. Best to compare and measure the two fronts side-by-side very carefully before you decide to jump one way or the other. Good luck with your project. Some photos would be nice. There are a number of clever people on this forum who have saved some real basket case Zeds and could advise in more detail.
  11. Curious. I have to say it looks like a 240Z (or 260Z 2+2?) roof & hatch grafted on to a Torana going by the small curved side window; all the Torana hatchbacks I've seen had quite large side windows extending right to the rear. Is it a custom or some Torana prototype, anyone know?
  12. Where's the petrol filler cap and flap? Looks all mocked up to be a race car of some kind.
  13. They're aluminium so you can paint them body colour. Otherwise the sugar scoop panel recess just clearly shows that something is missing, IMO.
  14. The calipers look so rusty I'd be surprised from experience if the pistons aren't seized solid, brake fluid is hydroscopic so absorbs moisture hence corrosion internally - I presume with the master cylinder gone the brake pipe ends have been left open to the air. But by all means, soak the calipers in penetrating oil and see how you get on. But they will surely need rekitting, whatever they are.
  15. I've heard of them. They're aftermarket, might be Autopartswarehouse or somesuch. But who knows what car model they were originally made for, maybe Z? But do you really want to overhaul them when they are in that condition? Do the pistons still move, or are they stuck solid?
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