Bobby

Hello Datsunrally, Do you have any friends with a lathe? I made my own manifold nuts from 1/2" hex brass bar and drilled and tapped for 8mm. Not sure what thread yours would have been but probably 10mm so would need larger hex bar than I used. Brass is the best material to use. Do not use stainless as you can get what some call "pickup or galling" when you undo. If you go with steel just use plenty of never seeze on the thread.

Hello, Sorry about the delay. I had forgot that I was going to report back on these. I received a pair from Zcar depot and they come in a hard cardboard tube for protection. I feel they are pretty good. Look the same as my originals. The only problem is the price but if you want to bring your car back to as new then that is what you have to pay.

Hello CAF, I really enjoy looking at your quality of work I just assumed Gavin was a young bloke. You know the old saying about assuming something. Can I ask you a question? If fitting factory badges to say the front mudguard or rear hatch and there is no hole what size drill do you use for those little push in clips and do you use a dob of glue as well or just the clips? Thanks.

Hello Gavin and you are a lot younger than me. I probably should have mentioned I was removing everything to bring the car to a bare shell so this method is not for everyone. But it certainly gave me peace of mind when finally going back together. Hope to have it driving in a few months and I will put up a few photos of the finished job. I am very proud of it.

Hello bjszed. When I first bought the car I removed the gearbox to repair a rear main seal leak. It nearly killed me laying under the car with the weight of the gearbox on my chest and going back in was worse. So I decided that when I pulled the engine for rust repairs I would make sure it was easy. I am 71 and retired so if it takes an hour to lift the car I don't care.

Hello AndBir, I don't expect them for about a month but I will give feedback. Once again thanks to everyone for help.

Hi AndBir, No they are part number 800-1578 and it says they have the upward curve at the back. I certainly hope they will be okay as it worked out at $400 US with shipping. We will see.

The first panel beater I used assured me that everyone scratches their car getting the engine in or out. He was very negative. I assured him that I felt I could come up with a safe way to do it. Lately while laying in bed I have been reading various rebuild projects so I thought I would share how I did mine. I made an "A" frame out of 3 X 11/2 pine (75 X 35) and then I used two lengths of 1/2" UNC B7 stud bar through a peice of heavy wall pipe that was bolted to the holes under the chassis just ahead of where the cross member bolts in. I had originally made a dolly out of timber with castors so I could just roll the engine/gearbox out when I lifted the car up. Anyway it allowed me to do the job slowly and safely just by winding the nuts under the pipe. With no marks anywhere. Just thought this may help someone. This photo is me preparing to refit.

Thanks to all those trying to help. I have been looking on Zcardepot while waiting for Motorsport auto to get them in but no luck. Last night I found a Zcardepot part number that was not on their website when you go looking under seals and weather stripping. So I wrote to them to see if they had them and a price for shipping. When I looked at emails this morning there was a reply with a shipping price so I ordered a pair. Lets hope they are okay when they get here.

Hello Gilltech tomorrow I will go to both Clark Rubber and Rare Spares. Cbr Jeff I have been looking but apparently they are no longer available from Zcarsource. They do have one pair of NOS for $800 US. That is pretty hot.

I have been waiting since last November for a pair of these moldings from MSA in America. They can't supply. My stainless strips are not too bad it is just the rubbers that are very hard. There is a place here in the Newcastle area that specializes in rubbers for old cars but he does not have anything to match the profile of the original. To make things worse I have removed one of my rubbers from the SS strip so have to do something. What do other people do to overhaul theirs? Thanks.

Sorry to trouble anyone but I have just worked it out. It is written on the four housings what globes to use for Japan, USA and Europe. Going by the size globes my handbook says to use we are using the same as Europe.

It has been a few years since I pulled my car apart and I can't remember which hole the stop light globes go into. Is it behind the small square section on the outside or in the section that has the large curved reflector inside. Or to put it another way stop light towards outside of car or towards the centre. Thanks.

Hello 240ZR, Are they in good condition. I have a pair but they are dented.

Hello adamo. Have you have sold these gutter trims to kiwi john? If not please contact me on 0249342829. Thanks.

Hello Millerman I have one for sale,on this forum off my 260Z. Been on for sometime with no lookers. It is not perfect but could be easily repaired with some fibreglass.

When I press the button on the end of the indicator I do not get the high beam to pass. I don't really care as I don't need it. Does anyone know how to bypass this relay and remove it from the system? Thanks.

My car is a 1976 260Z. There is a relay that the wiring diagram calls the "brake warning light check relay". It is all tied into the brake warning light, speedo, handbrake warning light and also to the solenoid on the starter motor. Does anyone have knowledge of exactly what this does and can it be removed from the system? Thanks.

Hello MaygZ, No not yet.

Hello CAF. Great to see a quality job finally come to life. I started down this road in May 2018 and only got my shell back last September. Still reassembling. My car had one of those factory passengers side foot rests and due to being bolted through the carpet the floor was stuffed. Has cost me $55,000 just for rust and paint. I can do all the mechanical work so I shudder to think what the total cost would be if you were paying someone to do everything. I am very lucky that my wife has been fully supportive through all the heartache. Question-what brand is that rear SS muffler and where did you get it?

Hello Kent I have just looked and I do have the original cables but no sign of any small screws. Sorry.

I have the original choke and hand throttle knobs that were on my car when I bought it. One of the choke knobs has a bit of damage underneath. Other two look perfect to me. If anyone wants them you pay for postage and they are yours. Or pick up at Maitland (near Newcastle NSW)

These tires have only done about 100 kms. Were on 8" rims. $100 for the pair.

I have for sale the front spoiler that was on my car when I bought it. After $150. In the photos you will see the end is missing on the left hand end.

Hello can someone tell me how to contact this fellow. I have not heard from him since April.