Enzo

On Ebay- PEC Australia (Precision Engine Components Australia) listed for about $42.00 In USA- Z-Car Depot Cheers

Because stainless steel can rust. Rub with fine steel wool to remove rust and coat with silicone on a rag. Redo occasionally to keep rust at bay.

Hi Gavin, Could you please close off this thread at the end of the month (28/02/2019). If no-one seems interested, I will remove the parts from sale and look at finishing the build with a slight modification to up the compression ratio. Cheers David (Enzo).

https://www.domain.com.au/20744-pacific-highway-johns-river-nsw-2443-2014946930 I was looking at NSW real estate and noticed halfway through a yellow Zed parked up behind the VW convertible at the indoor garage section. Out of my price range. Maybe with a lotto win though. David.

How about a session at the Gym. OPPS!!!!!. Sorry.

Hi Richard, I didn't get any flow figures but any info on the head work can be obtained direct from MIA engines (James or Brett). I only picked up the head at the end of October. Cheers

FOR SALE: HEAD. $5,500.00 An extensively modified N42 head by Brett and James at MIA engines in Dee Why SYDNEY. Welded 40cc chambers, injection notches welded, ported, new seats and guides and pressure tested etc. Fitted with Datsun Spirit .560 thou lift designed camshaft with DSI big bore valves to keep the rocker geometry correct. DSI bigbore manifold gasket; The Z store (USA) rocker arm kit with Performance Valve spring kit (Non Turbo). Picked up in October and still in the box. Never fitted. Parts and labour over $6000 AUD. This was to go with the bottom end with Datsun Spirit (DSI) forged pistons and rods, but with the deep 5.5mm recess in the pistons for the valves only gives 10.2:1 compression ratio. Over 11:1 compression would have been better as suggested by Eiji at DSI for this combination. So both sections are for sale separately or buy them both and change them to your own configuration. FOR SALE. BOTTOM END. $7,500.00 N42 L28 acid dipped block, Balanced, Magnafluxed and polished crank, Bored to 88mm and decked. Align hone block with ARP studs installed, drill and tap crank with grub screws, dowel flywheel for 12lb chromemoly flywheel, replace 3x crankshaft keyways with 1x long keyway. oil galleries had plugs removed and drilled and tapped for screw in plugs. Die grind internals and Glyptol paint. Oil pan has been modified with a Tomei universal oil baffle kit. Parts included: DSI 88mm Forged short skirt pistons with 29mm pin height. DSI 139.5 mm rods, BHJ damper and installation kit. Extra pulley attachments for air con and power steering, ARP main and head studs; 12lb Chromemoly flywheel and carbon/Kevlar clutch; Kameari Timing chain and hammonic damper bolt; Kameari twin idler gear; Kameari oil pump; Hitachi oil pump, water pump; polished alloy water pump pulley; Felpro gaskets. Parts and labour over $8000 AUD. I think I have listed most of the parts and labour. If anyone is interested in purchasing either component or both I can be contacted by email or call....zero, four. zero, zero, two, zero, two, six, seven, eight. Cheers Guys.

Good one Gav. I have had the same compressor for about a year. I see that they are about $800 at Supercheap over here. I usually buy when things are on special and got mine for about $350.00. The only mod I did to mine was screw off the Nitto output valve and fit an on/off tap in line. I have found that it holds good pressure and is a good compressor. I initially had a problem with the pressure relief valve not sealing when new (under the on /off switch) but a spray with lube sorted that. David.

Glad it was an easy fix. Now get out and enjoy it.

I might have jumped the gun Jeff. I have the 260Z which has the 3x fuel line which incorporates a return line. I think the 240Z only had the 2 lines. I can't remember what you showed in one of the earlier videos of your spare parts.

Hi, sounds like an exhaust leak. try tightening up the manifold bolts. David.

Hi Jeff, Looks like a few splits in the fuel filler hose connected to the tank. Cool idea using the cable ties on the plug leads. Haven't seen that one before. If you have the 3x tube steel fuel line (which has the return line) you can plumb into that to keep the fuel line neater. Also for negative earth lead use one that has two fittings so it can be bolted to the firewall as well as the engine gearbox joining bolt. Cheers

"The Professional" Great movie. So how is Mathilda these days Leon.

Hi Jeff, At about 9.20 you referred to the Dual Circuit pressure differential switch as the brake bias adjuster. (It's Not). This switch is for registering a loss of pressure in either the front or rear circuits. When this happens the electrical connection on the top illuminates a light on the dash to let you know of the pressure loss. A separate pressure regulating block should be in the circuit and this is what stops the rear brakes locking before the front brakes. (Page 137 Haynes Manual) Keep up the progress. As for the carbs only run 3-4 lb of fuel pressure. A fuel pressure regulator should be used and if you want install a gauge as well. The return line can be plumbed in with a restrictor. (A Holley jet will do pushed into the line will do). This will allow pressure to the needle and seats to bleed off. What can happen on hot days, is that after shutting the engine off, the pressure in the lines increases with the under bonnet heat and can force it's way past the needle and seats making a restart hard as the engine floods. The original Datsun fuel lines had a small hole restrictor in the return line. Cheers David.