dat2kman

I do have a FJ short motor, ( no head) disassembled, and sonic tested, that includes a flywheel!Can crate up and freight.

Yes, got those bits. Message me a number

I have engine plates for both FJ and L series engines, holding the plate to the bolt pattern on that box will determine if its FJ or L series. Bring it around and we can check. Also have some flywheels available, some standard, some lightened, some L20B ones too ( smaller diam clutch on those) For a daily/street car, you do not want a Kameari lightweight flywheel!

Lloks to suit a more upright motor, ie a FJ20 Extension housing is FJ20 What are you doing with it?

Yes, Bosch 044 s pretty well the one to use. For a low pressure lift, one of the Facet solid state types, they are nousy, but mount it on rubber insulator feet, onto a mount plate

Only 4 fittings required At top sides, tank pump feed, front rail return feed, very top, air/overflow feed back into main tank. At bottom, big outlet into EFI pump. 2 L fits snugly on rhs in front of std tank, and away from the zorst pipe.

no longer available, Like many parts in the Option catalogue.

Does Std tank have issues? Yes, only on fast sweeping right hand turns, if tank is less than half full. You won't be at WOT enough to warrant needing anything other han standard tank with outlet ( hows the internal condition?! 40 years of water condensation, dust ingress, scale etc, can eadily block the feed pipe!) Run it into a filter, then a low pressure pump into a 2 litre surge pot, then from surge into a EFI pump, then up to the front. Theres a few simple things to do, to ensure it all works properly.

48 neat in Qually! Well done! You or the old fella?

Where is the "Like" button!

If you have the L24/26 intake manifold to suit the Hitachi SU type carbs, then, yes, they are far better than a Holley 350 downdraft on the 240K manifold pictured above.

Maybe keep the 240K intake manifold, use it to fit a simple easy fitting, easy to adjust, Holley 350 two barrell carby The 240K std Nikki/ahitachi downdraft s a modernish one, too much emission crap, and worth little, yes, try tye facebooks. $20 ? The injection setup has come from a MR30 mid 1980's 2.4 Skyline, or similar, and will not work very well on a, more common here, L28, plus very few will muck around with the tiny ports version of that manifold Sell the lot, maybe $50-80, again on those facebbok pages

S13 tailshaft flange may not bolt to a standard 240Z R180 differential flange. You will need your original 240Z R180 tailshaft, ( the one that has the splined middle slip yoke and front flange), and have that rear flange fitted to the modified S13 tailshaft Do not attempt to use the standard S13 two piece tailshaft, but have one made up, a single one piece tube, using the bits that do fit. There are three versions of differential flanges, each has a different rectangular bolt pattern dimensions. It gets a bit frustrating, but once you have it sorted out, it will work.

Stock tailshaft will fit the rb 20/30 box.Stick needs severe bending,,, after to piss off the rubber insulated standard RB stick, and graft a B stick on, or use an "S " shaped stick from one of the early utes. Or, Go S13/14, you'll need a shorter, by 50mm, tailshaft ( no, nothing fits, you need to get your stock one shortened), but, the stick comes up through tunnel hole just nicely, and you can retain the C type condom filled insulated stick.

Have had same fuel starve issue at Qld Raceway, turn 1, then turn 2, car wouod cough/splutter. Both are fast RH corners. Fit a filter, then initial pump, to fill a 2 litre surge pot, , with a top overflow return back to tank, then fit a second pump, at bottom of surge pot, to push fuel to engine.

Hendersons car is a yet to be lobgbooked Group T car, but he has to show that, ts mechanical specification does comply with what it was back in the day. Turns out the CAMS Elegibility bloke is now looking at all potential Group T cars, due to some people running out of period spec items, and have been logbooked for doing so. To be a Group T car, it must be the real thing, not a dopycat replica, no matter how good it looks. It's up to Event Directors/Promotors to slot the T's with the S cars. The S brigade are still not happy, as a "non S car might win all their races" Funnily, the category is known as Historic Production Sports Cars ( or Touring, but the Touring lads dont give a rats, if genuine cars run with them)

All this "fancy" stuff just means big big dollars. Go look at, and study, some of the Group S Datsun z cars. All suspension arms are standard factory, the struts are standard heights, spring perches may have been lowered on the strut tubes, tyey run a 6" wide rim, etc There are a few minor alterations done, but all are very simple. Heres the interesting bit,,, They go faster, handle better, and look more standard, than, the majority of the highly modified for performance Z cars around.

To run a 260, yes, there are more freedoms with the induction, but, you must retain the original carburretors. With a 280Z, being injected, there are minor freedoms, to the internals of the induction system, but you must retain original intake manifold and rest of induction ( throttle body and airflow meter), same applies to any injected engine for GpS It is not easy, or cheap, to get the Nissan setup to run better. The intake manifold is a crap airflow design at anything above 6000 rpm, but due to bigger bore size, the single butterfly throttle body can be made to flow very good cfm rates, with only minor work, same as what the front running Porsches have done. Read the rule book, not just the specs sheets,,,,,,, Have a look at the induction setup on James Flett's car, yes, it is Gp S compliant, and it works, but, that is just one part of a mechanical package, that works well.

No they dont.Will bolt to hub, but centreline of caliper will be way way off.

You are kidding! ( not at all surprising, we all suppose,,,,,) Exposed to atmosphere, no matter how you think you drained them, the hard lines will have brake fluid remaining. Atteacts moisture, bare steel bundy tube, there will be internal rust. Refilled, and used, you'll get a constant supply of rust particles dumping into your calioers, and chewing out your piston seals. Just replace the bundy tube with fresh, a Sykes-apickavant double flare kit around $100, and a small diam tube bender, along with plastic coated P clips, fixed

Welded in steel sheet not of sufficient strength or resistant to torsional twist, for you? An hour or so on a local Warwick steel fabricator workshop's English Wheel, you'd have them shaped quite nicely.

I have a full set of 260 stocko springs, postage cost from Brisbane kinda negates it?

Whatever diff you use, fit a Spool type centre, ie locking both axle splines together. Dont try a CIG Welded centre, as you will never get the weight balance from one side to other, with the plates, and gobs of weld, etc, and at high tailshaft rpm ( useing a 0.75 fifth gear, engine, say 7000, tailshaft will be spinning at 9500 rpm !) a welded centre will vibrate the living crap out of the car. A LSD if plates are really pre-loaded, will do it, but the inertia losees will be greater than a Spool

$600 each per rim, thats not a bad price, compared to what they used to sell at, here.