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Posted (edited)

If you don't mind Jeff I'll slip this in here, not for the Pros but those trying some of this for the first time.

 

After you Pors and paint you need to tape up all the areas where the suspension components attach to the shell prior to applying the stonechip/sealer. It's a good idea to leave grab tags on the end of the tape so you can easily remove the tape before the stonechip sets..

 

Attaching suspension component, etc, over the stonechip can create issues as the stonechip compresses and breaks down leaving potentially loose attachments.

 

The second photo shows a couple of example location, e.g. where the LCA hangers attach to the rear cross-member and where the clips for the brake hose attach,

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Edited by PeterAllen
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

It's been a cold wet week so I have struggled to find motevation to head off to the shed, but that changed today as I just plain ran out of excuses. Spent the day working on the battery section. It was not that bad but not that good either! I decided not to take the full, "start from scratch" approach and just removed what needed to be replaced, plug weld a few holes and generally clean the area up. I almost managed to get everything finished before it was beer, dinner, red wine time. I'm quite happy with the progress.

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The removed rusty bits.

 

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Almost done. The plan is to use nutserts to re install the battery tray.

Christmas in July tomorrow at the sister in laws near Collector so migh. Even get to spot a few Z cars driving to and or from Taralga.

 

Jeff

Edited by CBR Jeff
Posted (edited)

I also recived a few photos of progress on the fuel tank from Les at LCR this week. I think Lurch has been hard at work fitting the in tank fuel pump. It's looking good. This set up should be very straight forward and quite tidy. The life pump will be in tank and the pressure pump will be under the car at the rear. Both pumps atr efi hardware supplied pumps. This arrangement also removes the need to have a return line from the fuel rail to the rear.

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Edited by CBR Jeff
Posted

So many small steps Jeff but I can appreciate how they all add up to giant leaps, nicely done again ;-)

Posted (edited)

So many small steps Jeff but I can appreciate how they all add up to giant leaps, nicely done again ;-)

Kaiven, John.

Jeff

Edited by CBR Jeff
Posted (edited)

The local Nissan spare parts man has been at it again. He rang me today and said I had better drop passed as he had some bits for me. I picked up an assortment of rubber plugs. All genuine and all still avalable.

Jeff

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Edited by CBR Jeff
Posted (edited)

The rust removal continues.

I have said it before and will say it again. It's no wonder these cars rust. I cut the strengthening plates from above the radius rod mounting point out today. It didn't look too bad on the outside but the inner panel was completely gone underneath. With no undercoat a sandwich panel no sealer the water would just sit in between the two panels and rust. The inner rail section was in fairly good condition. I cleaned the inner rails out with a wire brush the air hose and the vacuume cleaner. Next job is to make the replacement sheet metal, paint the inside of the rail, weld in the new parts and another job done. I also gave a different spot weld cutter a go today. I was in at my local industrial supplier yesterday and he said I should give it a go and see what I think. Works well but still undecided.

 

Jeff

 

 

 

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Edited by CBR Jeff
Posted

I always admire your determination and focus on even the hidden Jeff ;)  

  • Administrators
Posted

Yeah they all get rusty in that spot, going to have to unpick it on #150.

 

RE: Spot welder cutters, I find the biggest problem is they go blunt too quickly. Locky says use cutting fluid.. What were you using before?

Posted

Yeah they all get rusty in that spot, going to have to unpick it on #150.

 

RE: Spot welder cutters, I find the biggest problem is they go blunt too quickly. Locky says use cutting fluid.. What were you using before?

I was using the drill type. I always use cutting fluid and a small battery drill on low speed. It's the speed that kills them in my view.

I do like the guide on the new cutter and you can get new blades for them. I was told that a couple of the local panel shops are trying the cutter style. I'll keep you posted.

Posted

I always admire your determination and focus on even the hidden Jeff ;)

 

And there is lots of hidden rust in these cars. And there has been a few hidden treasures along the way with this car, but that's what you get from a 44 year old car from Japan.

Jeff

  • Moderators
Posted

Hi,

 

From mine experience it is heat that destroys cutting tools.

I always use quality cutting fluid and take my time, slow and low pressure.

Posted (edited)

A bit more progress today. Made the inner and outer pieces to repair the section I cut out last week. Then gave them a coat of weld through primer ready for installation after I treat the inside of the rail while the holes are still in play. I'll weld the inner section in them plug weld on the outer. It should look fairly similar to original, but no rust.

Jeff

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Edited by CBR Jeff
Posted (edited)

Yahoo Its the weekend

Going for a Ski tomorrow then Z time on Sunday. The items needed for Sunday arrived today so no excuses.

 

Jeff

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Edited by CBR Jeff
  • Administrators
Posted

It would be good if POR-15 or KBS rust seal had an applicator kit like that. You've got to do this kind of thing if you don't want the rust monster to come back. Also once the car is fully painted use a similar technique to apply fish oil in cavities like this. That's my plan anyway.

Posted

It would be good if POR-15 or KBS rust seal had an applicator kit like that. You've got to do this kind of thing if you don't want the rust monster to come back. Also once the car is fully painted use a similar technique to apply fish oil in cavities like this. That's my plan anyway.

 

Gav from my readings it is a similar product but all in one, rust converter and paint. It was actually recommended by the POR importer. Re the fish oil, It appears from my research that wax based compounds are the modern day alternative. The Bilt Hammer Dynax S 50 is applied in the same way as the Eastwood paint. Some good reading here http://www.ppcco.com.au/index.html

Posted

It would be good if POR-15 or KBS rust seal had an applicator kit like that. You've got to do this kind of thing if you don't want the rust monster to come back. Also once the car is fully painted use a similar technique to apply fish oil in cavities like this. That's my plan anyway.

 I've just ordered a refillable compressor air powered applicator to do my project Z31, the screw on can can be filled with virtually any liquid that you would want to apply and comes with a flexible wand like that shown in the Eastwood video above http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/141986879925?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Posted (edited)

After a couple of faulse starts today I made it to the shed. The Eastwood internal primer has been applied to all of the rails, cavities and internal sections that I could get to. It was very simple and easy although somewhat messy as the paint is very thin and arrives out of the applicator at a fair rate. The up side to this is that it spreads nicely running into all the nooks. A note to others is that the coverage inexperienced was less than advertised or (I think this is more the case) I applied it thicker.

Then I moved onto some lead work to finish off the drivers side gutter repair from a few weeks ago. This also included repairing the original turret lead joint at this point. Lots more to do but I am starting to see the end.

So it was a productive day. O and skiing was great yesterday.

Jeff

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Edited by CBR Jeff

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