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C.A.R.

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Everything posted by C.A.R.

  1. The RH A-pillar was still in good condition (apart from surface rust on the inside), so we kept it. However the bottom section was rusted out, so we decided to replace it. It's a slightly heavier gauge in 1.2mm, so it's a little harder to work, but we managed to fabricate up a replacement section in one piece. We then media blasted inside the cavity: Linished back and given a temporary coat of silver zinc.
  2. You say that.................................................
  3. Next job on the list was the rusted out toe boards / firewall areas: You may also notice that we tried our hardest to to keep the factory panel dimples... ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- With the drip rails fabricated, our attention turned to the roof frame itself and the extensive amount of structural rust - a part of the rust repairs that was going to be the trickiest... Fortunately I procured a rear cut that had the complete roof frame plus some other panel sections we needed. I deemed this quicker and cheaper than re-fabricating the frame sections from scratch... So we added to the bracing by added some sections that picked up threaded holes in the roof frame, then carefully unpicked the roof frame, until we were able to fully remove it: At which point the replacement roof frame could be welded into position:
  4. C.A.R.

    My L24 Build

    I'm saving up the required $ to finish it - I'll update this thread as it happens.
  5. Small amount of parts from the US are also needed, which I'm ordering shortly. Still on the list is fit the carpet & underlay, fit & wire in the radio, fit a kill switch, wheel alignment and corner weight it, book it in to LCR for a road tune, then I'll drive it for a week or so to PD it.
  6. You silly bugger Jon - why didn't you call Rob in the first place?!...................................................................
  7. Nope. I just get everything from Ash at Moorabbin Auto Spares - he has all those parts on the shelf.
  8. Both Auto and Manual RS30's & GRS30's had R200 diffs. Manual: 3.7 Auto: 3.54 ('74 RS30's - based on the late HS30 bodyshell - with Auto trans used the rare 3.36 ratio R200)
  9. Call Tuesday morning (03) 8687 1785
  10. Shaun Costin S&M Engineering BRAESIDE info@smeng.net.au Mobile: 0460 518 477
  11. Careful... Voldemort will hear that and appear with a terse comment.
  12. Is that you Andrew? It's a pity it had to be re-shelled after the botched repair job from 'he who shall not be named'... Regardless, Congrats on the restoration!
  13. I would suggest you use MIG to plug weld the panels back on. TIG'ing plug welds is fraught with difficulty...
  14. Cool project. But remember to weld the 1/4 panels back on before you drive it.
  15. You will have to have the Z inspected & approved by an Automotive Engineer with the T3 parts fitted, if you wish to use the Z on the road legally.
  16. I'll swap you a close ratio 260Z 5-speed for the Rover V8...?
  17. DD is 8 to 10 weeks.
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