twosixtyzed

Joe you kept my motivation going, thanks. Update: I set the "Fun" level to 10. I bought a flaring tool. From EFI Solutions I bought: steel 3/16 brake line and stainless brake tube nuts (M10x1.0mm) so an ape like me can't strip them again. I've had a crack at double flares and finally got them tight enough to sit nicely against the nuts - I guess until I pressurise them I won't know if I did a good or a bad job. It's not like I'd have to undo the whole thing if they were bad....oh... The brake juice had stripped all the paint off my rails so whilst I had parts removed and some access...first attempt at rust converter last night, it's a mess. Then some primer later today straight over it. What could POSSIBLY go wrong? (/sarcasm) Anyone feel free to correct me if I am off course. Next: primer, then rattle can of VGPaint 306, then tape it all up ready for more leaks, then bend the brake lines into shape, test fit, redo it x10, then bleed brakes.

Update: Master cylinder removed. Those flange nuts were stuck tight as. My inexperience led me to go too far with the 10mm flange spanner, I was going slow but I tried too many times and stripped them, I was annoyed at myself. I got PB Blaster and then some heat to them, then used a vice grip and eventually got them undone. But I feel like I wrecked the nuts unfortunately. Seems to me my options are (but definitely happy to be corrected): A) Struggle and get the other end (proportioning valve end) off and take it to my mechanic to make equivalent lines B) File the nuts flat. But feels unsatisfactory, will be hard to get them on-off in the future, looks fugly. C) Buy the double flaring tool and steel line (or cunifer?) materials, try and do it myself, I reviewed a load of youtube vids on double flaring, seems a bit of skills is needed

Joe you're amazing, I am definitely reading your updates! I am buying a flare nut spanner (10-12mm) at the weekend as I didn't even know about it until you said, my plan was to report back once I've either duffed it up or completed it successfully. I've also bought a vacuum hand pump kit so I can bleed the brakes (never done it, always wanted to know how). I am so...pumped...to start this work!

Thanks guys it has been really valuable having more eyes on this as I was thinking it was a bad recondition of the booster, you've steered me in a better direction. The MC was untouched that's correct (how did you guess, barely a blemish on it!). My mechanic's text yesterday was "Need master rebuilt. Any chance you can pull it off?" - bit cheeky given he "Fixed" the brakes but anyway, I can't drive it to him in this state so it makes sense I have a crack. So it looks like you're on the money. I will look at this positively, use it as an opportunity to learn. I found a replacement Tokico MC for a 260z with bore size 22.22mm which I think is what I need, I'll keep the old one and restore it once I get better at all this. I'll tackle this once the part arrives.

I had my brake booster professionally (i.e. not me) removed, reconditioned, reinstalled in February 2026. The car's sat in my garage since driving it 5mins back from the shop. I noticed it's leaked about 1/2 the fluid since then and taken the paint with it. The master cylinder rear seal seems to be leaking at the master cylinder-to-booster mounting flange? The nuts are all tight. It's not leaking from anywhere other than where the blue arrow and red arrow are. I can't get a better read on it than that, it's an awkward spot. My skill level is basic but willing to give things a try. I could drain the fluid, undo the two master cylinder nuts from the facing plate. Then the two nuts on the booster then....what? Is it a gasket that wasn't seated right? I am inclined to go back to the mechanic and politely ask if he can take a look, but at the same time, it's my car, I gotta take responsibility and put some effort in but I don't want to c0ck it up and make it worse. You know, a novice coming in thinking he knows more than he does. I don't want to be that guy.

Thanks man, really appreciate this! I'll find out a bit more, not sure if it was modified or why there's a difference - probably someone's great idea at the time.

1974 260z 2+2 bus is getting ready for RWC, got a few sticking points I was hoping someone might know? Thanks in advance. 1) my mechanic mentioned today "you have two different front struts" and wants me to find one(s) with the "correct" brake line pipes, but we don't know which ones is the correct one? RH has vertical hose mount pipe and looks correct. Left is probably incorrect?? They are both 55mm struts. The car was has lowered springs (I don't like the look, she looks like a dachshunds with the 14s) and I have the original springs. I searched around the forum for hints and saw this, but wasn't convinced it is my answer. 2) He also said I am "missing a small directional shim for the calipers" I am not 100% sure what that is so I looked it up, I think it's the shim that adjusts the inboard/outboard position of the calipers the disc runs centrally between the pads? Is it this Part # 24-5450? It's current not available as far as my quick google found. I've read a correct-thickness hardened washer (~0.5–1 mm) might work?

@C.A.R. @gav240z You were right, it was the valve stem seals - you guys rock! Last week I got booked in with Richard at Allcraft and he's worked his magic on it, she's up and running again. It took a lot of work. Shout out to him and Lou Mondello - Allcraft Automotive 23 Wren Rd, Moorabbin VIC 3189 (03) 9532 2919 When I asked him what we should work on next to get it past RWC he rolled his eyes and said "where do I start....?!" Yeah. Enough said. It's a restoration! I'm sourcing an airbox for the twin SUs then he can dial it in on the dyno...she might even make 3rwhp! Right....back to admiring Nedz ride.

Guys, thanks so much for the input, I really appreciate it and I am currently researching all those points, and reached out to Wayne at Pearl automotive who was dead helpful (and a man down) - it's a relief to know there's help out there. I'll do my best not to take too much and give where I can here on the forum.

I would be interested in the (non-seized) L26 if it's running? (see my recent ad in Wanted) But I understand if the car needs to be sold complete.

[UPDATE 15 DEC 2025 - no new engine required - I appreciate all the help - more details at the bottom of the thread] Anyone thinking of doing an engine swap and needs to sell their L26? Let me know please? It has to be a known good/running. I have one in mine that is non-seized, it drives but smokes more than "Cigarette Smoking Man" after a long day dealing with Mulder and Skully (anyone? No? Too obscure?) I recently bought a my 1974 260z 2+2 knowing it had issues, the PO messed with it, timing is 180 degrees out and that's the least of my problems. I am realistic to know the limits of my skills and rebuilding an engine is not in my skillset, but I have budget for the swap. I am awaiting the quote from dandyengines, I want to keep it stock, I have refurbished SU carbs, but I know I am looking at 10k AUD, right? I know of an L26 which has sat for 10yrs and is non-seized but that's not really moving me forwards much. Any help would be appreciated, let's keep these beautiful cars running!

If it helps anyone, I had the same issue on my (new to me last month) very tired 1974 260z 2+2...none of my gauges were illuminated, my heater didn't run. After chasing it for what seemed like days, prodding everything in sight with a multimeter, it was an unconnected rando purple cable under the dash that was spliced to a GreenRed wire coming out the fusebox and had 12v with ignition On or Off. I removed the splice clip and....there was illumination and a fan running. I should have removed it earlier but was trying process of elimination. I think it was joining two independent 12v circuits, whenever one was live it dragging voltage into the other, killing the heater and confusing the heck out of me. Now I have time to look at the other thousand problems exciting challenges.