AndBir

Thanks, my main focus is on removing corrosion on the metal pins/sockets as I recently purchased a used hazard switch and found the coating on the pins was preventing the multimeter from detecting a circuit had been made when the switch was turned on. Using Vinegar cleaned them up a bit and I got a circuit - so the switch works.

Looking good :

Just after any recommendations from Z owners as to the best way they have found to clean the electrical connectors (pins/sockets in the wiring loom plugs) on their cars? A Google search brings up various contact cleaners/lubricants as well as vinegar and wire brushing etc. Also, do people then apply some of the dielectric "grease" to help prevent corrosion and maintain a better connection?

Yep, maybe when you sorted out the cold air box you losened the wiring around the coil or distributor and the backfire jolted it enough to cut off power to one of these areas?

I saw you can also use these ^^^ for the inner rear hatch seal - yes, it is not quite long enough so adding the off cut(s) from the doors will fill the gap along with some 3M rubber glue at the joins.

As I am sure many of you purchase items online and therefore have items delivered by AusPost I thought it would be a good idea to let people know of a scam/phishing attempt I recently recieved. You get a text message that WILL join your other REAL AusPost messages and as such appear to be genuine, the scam/phishing is outlined on (the real) AusPost website here : https://auspost.com.au/about-us/about-our-site/online-security-scams-fraud/scam-alerts

This may also be an option as it appears carbuilders may no longer supply Lizardskin : https://www.carbuilders.com.au/bully-rubber-liner-paint-colours I'm not sure how people feel about "sticking" something to their inner panels however maybe an adhesive heatshield type product would also help (the heavy duty one) : https://www.carbuilders.com.au/peel-stick-heat-shield~845

You could look at applying a "bed liner" type product - I used the "Lizard Skin" brand which comes as an acoustic or thermal type product primarily for the underside of the car body but would help in minimising issues from stone impacts on the guards.

Got to love the sound of this :

Was not sure where to post this photo of some Zeds but though it might fit here :

Seems that in October each year people decide to sell their 240Z / 260Z - must be a Spring cleaning impulse (or on instructions from SWMBO who is in spring clean mode?).

I am sure mine still does, may have to look at doing an oil change as well :-)

Here is a link to a seller of the OEM rear lca bushing kit : https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-280Z-REAR-CONTROL-ARM-TRANSVERSE-LINK-BUSHING-KIT-OEM/182821241949?hash=item2a90fec45d:g:4loAAOSwCmNZ3PTe Also browse their store for other Z items you may need, I have purchased from them before and their prices seem competitive compared to other sellers.

Unless you go aftermarket urethane (nolathane/prothane etc. etc.) then you will not find a kit as such. I put new "rubber" ones back in mine as (other than the steering) I feel the OEM type were made to suit the application especially the suspension - hence having to tighten the lower control arm bolts holding the bushes when the vehicle is on the ground and loaded with 2 people and a full tank of fuel. PS: The MSA website has some good advice regards still using some rubber bushings in certain areas : https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4100K

Yep, ordered a couple of the plugs coming off the steering column multi switches as I want to tap into the wiring without chopping up the existing stuff.