C.A.R.

The issue you will find is that the factory Z seats have a very low base, so any 'modern' seat will sit you up higher that the standard item. If you intent to use your Z in competition, I suggest looking at a fixed back bucket - FWIW I have a Sparco Sprint in my race Z and I'm also 6'4, and i don't have any helmet clearance issues.

When the 240Z was first delivered to me I noticed the gear-stick hole had been cut out (badly) further forward and a later model - Bluebird or 280ZX - gearbox was in the cabin. As we are returning the 240Z to original specification, I needed to find a 71A box and tailshift - no easy feat as most have been scrapped. Fortunately after speaking to Les at Les Collins Racing in Oct '22 about this issue, he went on the hunt for an 71A gearbox & TS on the understanding that he would get the job of rebuilding it. Needless to say he came though! New Nissan Bulk Rings New bearings. New Nissan gaskets & seals Re-machined and improved shifter mechanism Hydro-Jet blasted cases Re-plated fasteners Rebuilt Tailshaft And before anyone asks: Yes, it all cost the GDP of a small African nation. But what a piece of jewellery it is!

Also in '21 we stripped down all the parts that required electroplating including ALL the bolts that are used. This was all given to my Hydro-Jet blaster to take them back to raw steel again before being sent off for re-plating in silver or gold as required. And back from the electroplaters a few months later - Shiny!

So that's the body shell repairs story completed, but for the next part of the restoration we need to go back in time a bit as I've omitted other parts of this 240Z's restoration. In August '21 I was looking into rebuilding the door hinges as they were quite sloppy from years of use. I came across this bloke on ebay in Malta(!) who makes Datsun hinge repair kits, so I placed the order and he posted me enough kits to rebuild all 4 door hinges. I disassembled the hinges, media blasted them, then installed the new pins and bushes, they were then put aside until they were needed.

This was all done so we could fit ALL the panels back onto the body shell and turn a MASSIVE corner with the project:

Next the old paint and dried rust converter was removed from the bonnet, before it was also given a coat of Epoxy along with the doors, guards and headlight buckets:

With all the prep work done, we commenced welding the topside of rear quarter panels back on with a mixture of Mig plug welds and spot welds. With the quarter panel welds around the tail light panel linished smooth, we then set about prepping and welding into place the rear tail light panel. Unfortunately the manufacturer of the tail light panel got the hatch lock receiver mount AND the slam panel welded in the wrong spot, so we had to unpick it and weld it back on in the correct position - 12mm to the left! - so the hatch lock could engage... Annoying but straight forward enough. The roof skin was then screwed into place, the windscreen & seal were installed and checked for fitment, then the removed so we could weld the skin into place: Next, the body shell was returned to the rotisserie so the underside of the rear quarters could be welded into position: The previously fabricated A-post drip rail extensions were then welded into place: RHS: Then the underfloor rails were adjusted, prepped, welded into place and the welds linished smooth. After which the underside of the bodyshell was scuffed with 240g and given a coat of PPG finest Epoxy: Along with the rear quarters, tail light panel and roof once they were taken back to bare metal:

Time for another update. With the door gaps sorted, we turned our attention to the quarter panels. I can sum them up as being 90% good - they had issues like most aftermarket panels, but nothing horrendous. But it would be nice if they could just be 100% spot on... * The top body line was too sharp * The pressing around the tail light apparatuses were different from side to side * They had ripples around the arch lips * The step for the tail light panel was in the wrong spot. * The LH recess for the tailgate opening was too 'short'. Lots of panel beating and farnarkling took place, but we finally got them to fit after a number of days. We couldn't have left these issues as they would have stood out like dogs balls once the car was painted and assembled... Then we test fitted a bumper to make sure our fitment was correct: With all that done (it took a LOT of hours), and all the gaps looking within tolerence, we could now begin prepping to weld the quarter panels into place. But first the inner rear 1/4s were sanded and a fresh coat of Epoxy applied. The green coating was removed from the inside of the new quarter panels and these were also Epoxied. Once the Epoxy had cured overnight, KBS Rust Seal was applied to the insides of both the 1/4 panels and internal structure (taking care to stay away from the panel joins) to seal them from any future corrosion (hopefully!). The roof frame and skin also got the same treatment, before they were welded into position:

Radiator: https://kfvintagejdm.com/shop/datsun/radiator-support-kit/ Guards: https://resurrectedclassics.com/en-au/collections/sheet-metal/products/1970-1978-datsun-240z-260z-280z-steel-fender-set I can't help with the A-Post. What's the chassis number of the 240Z?

Group Buy: Interior Plastics Max at Resurrected Classics is offering a HUGE 20% off their interior plastics for early and late 240Z. If you are interested, please let me know, however EOI until I get freight costs. Group buy ends 1st of March. Total kits available is 34 of both early and late. Early interior plastics set: AUD$1900 - Excluding freight. Late interior plastics set: AUD$1700 - Excluding freight

Holy thread revival, Batman! Here is a the MA regs on cages: https://motorsport.org.au/docs/default-source/manual/general-requirements/2024/2024-schedule-j.pdf?sfvrsn=ec9993ff_4

Think I have a set - PM me your address.

Updates?

Reason? Do you not want them to look OEM?

Stick with your 55mm struts.

You are in for a world of pain. Good luck. Edit: I strongly advise you leave it LHD.

Justin, you asked a simple question, so I gave you a simple answer I fitted one some years ago at LCR and from memory it just needed the usual 'fitting' to the engine. Was it worth the extra $? I cant answer that, but from memory the customer waas happy with it. If you want more info, email Les Collins as I'm sure he'll be able to give you a more detailed answer. https://lescollinsracing.com/contact

Yes.

I wondered where you got that from... AUD$280 for a new reliable wiper unit is a gift.

No they will not. Either type of synchro has their own hub assembly, so they can't be interchanged. You need to remove the cases to determine what synchro / bulk ring box you have and order accordingly. Furthermore, if 2nd gear ring is 'crunching' the others won't be far behind it...

Welcome Graham. Firstly you actually need to determine what gearbox it actually is. Unless you know the full history of the Z, it could have any Datsun 5 speed fitted as they are now over 50 years old. Both brass synchro rings (about $100ea) and steel bulk rings (well over $200ea!) and are still available new from Nissan. If you are not inclined to do the rebuild yourself, I'd send the gearbox to either: Les Collins Racing in Vic: https://lescollinsracing.com/contact Or Stewart Wilkins Motorsport in NSW: https://www.swmotorsport.com.au/ HTH

The current hosting cost is unsustainable mate - especially with the dwindling site traffic... Do what you have to do.

2023 Christmas BBQ! It's on again! Date: Sunday 10th December 2023. It's later this year due to clashes with Datsun Day, Challenge Bathurst and Classic Japan. Time: 11am Onwards. Location: Same as previous years, Gordon and Sharon's property in the outer East near Lilydale. Please prey for dry weather! PM me for the address if you haven't been before. Bring your Zed, food and Drink and a chair. The wood fired BBQ will be provided. Bring your Wives , partners and kids. All welcome! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Attending: Gordon (durr) Locky - CAR Bruce - Lightmaster Dave - KatoKid

https://www.neatgearboxes.com.au/ in SA have/had new 4.1 CW&P sets available.

With the rear quarters clamped in position, then next thing we had to do was fit the rare spares door skins. Rare Spares has a sticker on ALL their panels stating that: "This is panel is only a vague approximation of an OEM panel and shitloads of work will be required to make it fit correctly." Paul clamped them onto the rebuilt door frames to check fitment and... well... there were issues. The door handle recess was 'low' in one skin in relation to the body line. The door handle recess in both skins was 'sucked in' when a ruler was run across the body line. The handle holes were in the wrong spot. The upper body line was not sharp enough or not there at all... Paul spent 3 days rectifying these issues - we worked out it would have been quicker to make new ones from scratch! But eventually they were fitted to the frames (after I removed the e-coating): Before the skins were fitted I Epoxied the insides of them and applied a coat of KBS Rust Seal to (hopefully) keep them rust free forever. We are aiming for a 5mm panel gap and it appears we will succeed in obtaining that measurement.