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C.A.R.

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Everything posted by C.A.R.

  1. C.A.R.
    One of Lindsey's...
  2. C.A.R.
    Onto the LH floor - I worked out the cost for new KFVintageJDM floor pans + freight + installation, and the figures said it was going to be cheaper to fabricate & install patch repair panels: I'm not taking credit for this - it's Graeme's handywork.
  3. C.A.R.
    The area around fuel door was rusted through, so I fabricated a new section to replace it: Yuck...:
  4. C.A.R.
    Repeat on the LH side with some shrinking required for good measure:
  5. C.A.R.
    .
  6. C.A.R.
    I think this might be Dave and Tim's inspiration:
  7. C.A.R.
    I got it off ebay as I couldn't find anything suitable from my local electronics retailers. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/403656454097?hash=item5dfbccafd1:g:4p4AAOSwis1ifjqJ&frcectupt=true
  8. C.A.R.
    #subscribed
  9. C.A.R.
    The RH rear lower quarter was a mess, and the inner panel was rusted though as well. No choice but to replace both, so Graeme (my employee) tackled this while I repaired the panels...
  10. C.A.R.
    RH dogleg was next. The back of the sill was repaired, then a new dogleg was folded up, welded into place and linished smooth: (I've since pulled the slightly sunken weld out & re-linished it.)
  11. C.A.R.
    How long is a piece of string?
  12. C.A.R.
    Lead used at the base of the A pillars, top of the A pillars and top of the C pillars where the roof joins the quarter panel. And as Ned has said above, it has a high reserve. That makes the condition of the engine bay & underneath detract from it's value - but that is the potential buyers decision.
  13. C.A.R.
    It's just the old lead cracking underneath. Nothing to worry about, but it really should have been fixed when it was painted... Heater core will be leaking. Like a lot of Zed's its got nice paint & interior, but underneath it's less-so IMHO. All depends on the expectations of the new owner though...
  14. C.A.R.
    The RH side seemed like a reasonable place to start, so we repaired the top of the sill first: The top was cut out, and piece was folded up and welded into place:
  15. C.A.R.
    #Fixed
  16. C.A.R.
    I'm a bit stunned to hear this as I only spoke to him last year... I met Geoff on many occasions - especially when he was attending P.I. Historic's in his Zed. He was a top bloke. My sincerest condolences to the Owens family. R.I.P. Geoff. -Locky.
  17. C.A.R.
    It's wild how it changes shades in the sun... And yes it's not slow at all! It's been a massive pleasure to build it for you and I miss having it in the workshop already...
  18. C.A.R.
    One turn up from full soft
  19. C.A.R.
    Was there ever any doubt!
  20. C.A.R.
    Before: After:
  21. C.A.R.
  22. C.A.R.
    7.45hrs later: And with a coat of Phosphoric Acid:
  23. C.A.R.
    I've not used that model, so I cant comment. Maybe look for reviews online? Regardless, I'm sure being a Lincoln it'd work well.
  24. C.A.R.
    Unimig are not that great... My mate has a Unimig 4in1 and it's not nice to use. Amperage fluctuations when welding, non-linear amperage control... it's just unpleasant in use. They are just an overpriced cheaper brand IMHO. I personally prefer to keep my welders separate. For a Mig I suggest a Lincoln Electric 180C - it's a solid transformer unit, so it's reliable (single phase). Consumable parts are easy to get & reasonably priced. It's only got two controls - linear Amperage & Wire Speed so it's super easy to fine tune. They are so good - we have two in the shop! https://www.lincolnelectric.com/en/products/k2473-2 That is an inaccurate comment. It is totally depends on what you are doing.
  25. C.A.R.
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