C.A.R.

Lead used at the base of the A pillars, top of the A pillars and top of the C pillars where the roof joins the quarter panel. And as Ned has said above, it has a high reserve. That makes the condition of the engine bay & underneath detract from it's value - but that is the potential buyers decision.

It's just the old lead cracking underneath. Nothing to worry about, but it really should have been fixed when it was painted... Heater core will be leaking. Like a lot of Zed's its got nice paint & interior, but underneath it's less-so IMHO. All depends on the expectations of the new owner though...

The RH side seemed like a reasonable place to start, so we repaired the top of the sill first: The top was cut out, and piece was folded up and welded into place:

#Fixed

I'm a bit stunned to hear this as I only spoke to him last year... I met Geoff on many occasions - especially when he was attending P.I. Historic's in his Zed. He was a top bloke. My sincerest condolences to the Owens family. R.I.P. Geoff. -Locky.

It's wild how it changes shades in the sun... And yes it's not slow at all! It's been a massive pleasure to build it for you and I miss having it in the workshop already...

One turn up from full soft

Was there ever any doubt!

Before: After:

7.45hrs later: And with a coat of Phosphoric Acid:

I've not used that model, so I cant comment. Maybe look for reviews online? Regardless, I'm sure being a Lincoln it'd work well.

Unimig are not that great... My mate has a Unimig 4in1 and it's not nice to use. Amperage fluctuations when welding, non-linear amperage control... it's just unpleasant in use. They are just an overpriced cheaper brand IMHO. I personally prefer to keep my welders separate. For a Mig I suggest a Lincoln Electric 180C - it's a solid transformer unit, so it's reliable (single phase). Consumable parts are easy to get & reasonably priced. It's only got two controls - linear Amperage & Wire Speed so it's super easy to fine tune. They are so good - we have two in the shop! https://www.lincolnelectric.com/en/products/k2473-2 That is an inaccurate comment. It is totally depends on what you are doing.

Oh dear... RH Rear wheelarch: Even the site supervisor was impressed...

Dodgy sods...

I feel an comment from Voldemort, imminent...

The scuttle panel was damaged from the guard hitting it in the accident. The plenum top had to be removed to access the gussets that secure the top of the front clip. There's a hole what has been fiberglassed up in the plenum that goes straight into the cabin, so that needs to be fixed properly. Also it's covered in surface rust inside. Hence why it's all been removed

With the panel gaps checked & the front clip adjusted slightly, the clip with welded into position. We then stripped the shell of the remaining parts and installed it onto the rotisserie: Blasting is scheduled for the 24th, so stay tuned...

Why are you worried about the primer colour? If you are concerned about paint chips, tint the primer body colour. The underbody was painted in body colour.

It's a W58.

The only rust I found was in the bottom of the LH guard. It's visually an excellent body rust wise.

I was fortunate to obtain a 2+2 front cut from one of my contacts that was straight with only minor rust. They also had some good front guards, headlight buckets / sugar scoops & bonnet hinges. So Michael went and collected them on ANZAC day & brought it back to our shop. That week we removed the skirt & rails from the donor firewall and did the same thing to the Z: The clip was prepped, then clamped into position where all the dimensions were carefully measured and the clip adjusted so that was in correct alignment. Following this the guards & bonnet were bolted onto check gaps: