C.A.R.

I would suggest you use MIG to plug weld the panels back on. TIG'ing plug welds is fraught with difficulty...

Cool project. But remember to weld the 1/4 panels back on before you drive it.

Weirdo.

You actually need a clutch AND brake pedal.

As it should be.

Only worth scrap value mate.

You will have to have the Z inspected & approved by an Automotive Engineer with the T3 parts fitted, if you wish to use the Z on the road legally.

Are you some sort of comedian?

I'll swap you a close ratio 260Z 5-speed for the Rover V8...?

DD is 8 to 10 weeks.

Whats wrong with your original?

Around this time the rear quarter panels were removed and the outer wheel tubs as both were beyond economical repair. New Tabco tubs were then adjusted for fitment, then tack welded into place: Next we made new drip rails in preparation for repairing the roof rails...

Slowly!

Was a perfect day and Thanks to Gordo & Shaz for hosting again! Photos here on the FB page: https://www.facebook.com/groups/36878942305

The bonnet was the original - although it had been stripped. It was remarkably rust free, but it had the noticeable front droop along with the derigur dents and wrinkles. Paul tackled it, panel beating and flippering it straight. The nose what smacked upwards with a large block of wood and 40lbs sledge. Then it was given a coat of rust converter and put away until it was needed.

11am onwards.

This it happened: Because we wanted to be uncompromised when getting to these rusty areas:

Because I knew what was going to have to be done with the internal roof rails, we unpicked the roof skin. We stripped the remaining filler off the skin, welded up some rust holes that appeared(!) then gave it a good flippering, fettling and farnarkling to make it as ripple free as we could. It was then given a coat of rust converter on both sides, then carefully stored away until it was required... Around this time I also had the heater core and radiator refurbished: Yuck!

I have to back track slightly here: Before the RH engine bay rail was welded into place we decided to correct the misalignment of the poorly installed RH skirt and rail. The whole front end was never aligned correctly post accident and it missed my jig mounts by a good 12mm. The required us to cut the top radiator support and pull the top of the RH strut tower OUT. Paul gave me a hand with this: The bottom of the skirt was unpicked from the footwell and then was gently persuaded to fit the jig at the bottom. This got the RH front skirt and rail back into position and allowed us to continue with the repairs to the front clip. The top of the radiator support was then repaired with new sections:

The front lower crossmember needed to be repaired, so it was measured, media blasted, cut in half, a new centre section folded up and then welded into place. The rusty ends were also replaced. We also fabricated a replacement for rear of the lower radiator crossmemeber:

Trainspotter... It's a '62 850

The Epoxy is scuffed with 240g, wiped with wax & grease, the it's wet on wet with regular primer then colour.

Once the rust repairs were completed, the whole car got another coat of epoxy. Then the panels went on and they were gapped. Nek Minet - High build primer:

What do you mean 'soon'?!

This was my headlining act!