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RunawaySloth

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RunawaySloth last won the day on January 25

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About RunawaySloth

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  1. Removing an an old repair for made at some stage before I bought it 25 years ago to make way for a new repair.... a new "superior" repair! Bit of rust there but cut it all out now and patching new sections in. Fortunately lots of healthy metal too... and in the right spots. I've replaced the right hand sill/ rocker panel and replaced a rusted out section behind the right guard with a section I made complete with new threaded parts to screw the bottom of the guard into. That parts 95% done too so might get some pics of that up at some point as well. Nice to be able to take my time with repairs.
  2. Ah thanks., Good Mine was repairable. I'm certain the 2+2 wheel well is the same.
  3. I'm sure I'll be able to sort something out with some glue and a bit of experimentation. Will probably be able to cut out the top bits from the old seal and reuse them as fortunately they're undamaged.
  4. Wheel well is nearly done. Took a while to get round to it though.
  5. Not sure exactly which category door seals fits in on the forum admin please move if there's somewhere better to post. Anyway I ordered a rubber kit from Rare Spares for the 260Z 2+2 restoration and the door seals are just a universal type door seal, the corner part for where the door meets the window section isn't there, would need to be made up somehow, and neither is the flat part that comes out and sits along the top of the door. Apart from the things it's missing it is pretty close to the original. I was counting on it just being a complete ready to go in door seal and am now at a bit of a loss as to what to do. The corner part is something I could probably figure out but the piece that comes out above the window which doesn't even seem to be in the kit has thrown me and I certainly wasn't counting on having to pretty much build a seal out of nothing. Would like some advice on it if anyone has any? I'm thinking I might have to return the kit and source the rubber parts from somewhere else. The Rare Spares kit just seems to be incomplete. I did read somewhere on this forum that the 2+2 door seals need to be sourced from overseas and even then are hard to get.. I assume it's because of the parts missing from the readily available seals here?
  6. Will you be able to source a new wheel well? If so where from?
  7. What do you think of that POR15 rust treatment paint? Might be good to use on large areas of surface rust. Apparently it's really effective, people painting whole chassis in it, etc. I'm making progress on my 2+2, doing the spare wheel well at the moment but it's just so bloody hot in Melbourne I'm waiting til later in the day to work.
  8. Inspiring stuff! Look forward to seeing it progress. Thanks for posting.
  9. Saw these for sale on Gumtree in SA and remembered your post. Maybe you could work something out? https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/happy-valley/engine-engine-parts-transmission/260z-exhaust-system-with-extractors/1265974637 Another in Vic but a bit dear in my opinion https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hoppers-crossing/engine-engine-parts-transmission/datsun-240z-260z-280z-280zx-exractors/1262278432
  10. Hoping someone can supply the linkage parts missing in this pair, Thanks
  11. Yeah I reckon that's a good plan. Even a slight mismatch in colour from the bay to the body won't be detectable Perfect test bed really.
  12. In the smash repair place where panels had to be cut at a certain section we used to mig braze the new sections in and use filler to smooth it out across the joins. It is possible to get bare metal finishes across joins but it can be very time consuming and ultimately in many cases it's not necessary. In the old days they used to lead load it of course Basically melting lead over rough spots and filing them out smooth) which leads to beautiful repairs but these days it's virtually a lost art because of course it is highly toxic and I believe it was one of the factors leading to the stigma of panel beaters being....well... a little slow. I was fortunate enough to have a teacher at the trade school "very carefully" teach me lead loading but I've never ever returned to it or used it for a repair and I can't afford to lose the one or two brain cells remaining up there anyway. When lead loading was "banned" it was replaced by filler. Filler isn't as good however, over a good join or sheet metal patch filler is in most cases a perfectly adequate repair and over small holes there's nothing wrong with a heavier fibreglass filler to bridge it. If you can get all the edges in the right spots they can be used as a guide to get everything between them right when filling. I can do that kind of work at home but I'm by no means a master panel beater, the difference being it will take me ten times as long as them to get an acceptable result particularly on more "difficult" parts. Virtually all the work can be done with a small mig with an Argon Bottle and 0.6mm wire, stitch for butt welds and plug welds to mimic where spot welds are. With the painting were you having it match the body or were you doing it black or something as I've seen some people do? I'm leaving my engine bay for now and after the body repairs are done and primed, I'll top coat and clear coat/ blend them as practise for doing the whole car. With paint at least if I'm not happy with it I can just scuff it back and take it in for a full respray. But like you half the fun of it is doing what I can myself so I'll at least give it a go. After the blends I'll decide if I want to keep the orange or change in which case I'll have to do the engine bay as well, strip the whole bay etc. I'll probably keep the original colour though as I don't mind it.
  13. Yeah I know! Saw you sold a pair fairly recently. Apparently the auto brake pedal is wider due to the extra room? Don't have another pair lying about do you? Or any leads? If I get completely stuck I'll cobble something up.
  14. Do you think you'll plug or spot weld them in? Maybe a combination. and some stitching too. MIG, MIG braze or maybe TIG? To avoid any problems of course everything that's going to be in the finished product is best trial fitted, to make sure all the gaps are right and everything's properly aligned.
  15. What an incredible project Rob! Look forward to seeing more. I'm "stuck" with an auto 2+2 which I bought about 25 years ago and only now just starting to get on the road in earnest. Great work!
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