Robdog

Hi guys, For those with roof skin removal experience, pictured is a thin strip of steel which sits underneath the front edge of the roof skin. It is spot welded to the main frame and the roof skin then welds to it. question, is this factory or has it been added at some stage? as this roof has been off before. I totally removed that piece and sandblasted the area, I’m just wondering wether to put a new piece back in, as I see lots of overlaps as a nice place to start rusting. thanks for help

I was thinking of doing the engine bay the same as body color. I figured I would like to have a go at paint, plus the engine bay is more or less not completely comparable to the body, particularly with the hood down haha.. engine bay obviously is pretty busy and the eye hopefully won’t be drawn to paint imperfections as much as pipe work etc In saying that, if I bomb it, I can make the decision to take a different direction at that stage.

For sure thanks. The roof needs some careful consideration. It’s been replaced before and when re installed it was mig welded. Had a bugga of a time getting it off. But result was some larger than desirable holes left to repair. I also had a go at making repair panels for rear roof gutters at the hatch. Rust had gone right through both sides. I’m not to happy with my attempts and it’s left me a little hesitant to try more outer skin work. but mig panels back on I’d be ok with.

Doing what I can from here on out, I’ll try to stay with tig. Never tried oxy before, probably not the time to learn at this stage either. All the outer panels need work. Thinking I’ll need some advice from a panel beater soon, as I have virtually zero skill with panels. Was happy to do the bottom side, but not the top. Was thinking of painting engine bay myself as well to move things along though. Not sure if this is a good idea or not?

Thanks, was planning on some late night open wheel runs lol. Them’s the parts I’ll be needing help with finishing. Still heaps to do

Thanks very much, in it for the long haul..

Hi Guys, bought my car some 12 years ago as a rolling shell in Sydney, and from then on I have been lurking in this site, which has been a great resource of information mind you. So thank you for the years of help. Personal I’ve never driven a zed! That’s right never! but I’ve been compelled since enjoying ownership of a ta22 celica when I was younger, to complete the resto mod under mostly my own steam (re the duration) after falling in love the the lines of the 240z. many won’t subscribe to my choice of power plant, however I’ve done my best to leave the body alone. Many more years of work to come in my minimal spare time no doubt, but progress is progress. Getting to the stage where I’ll need a professional hand with final body work. Cheers guys merry Christmas Rob

Hi fellas, Been searching but not finding much info. The superlite 17” rims, I was wondering if any one has these on their zed? Curious to know what sort of caliper clearance they have. I was planning on Rota Rbx 17x9/9.5 with flares but with other mods my engineer didn’t approve of 4 stud. So scoped out the Rota RKR’s in 5 stud, but not convinced visually, that my calipers will clear the spokes. Hence looking at the superlites as they seem to have less dish and a more aggressive spoke angle leading away from the caliper. front brakes are 325mm rotors with R32 sumitomo calipers. Would also consider 16” for some more tire in the superlites if I new they would squeeze over the brakes, but expect it would be to tight. any experience advice as always is much appreciated.

Hi, old topic but need to ask, I have 4 stud 17”RBX front and rear, changed to 5 stud and I’m now wondering wether anyone has had experience with RBX rim caliper clearance vs the 5 stud 17” RKR? brakes are 325mm rotors with R33 calipers, so fairly snug.

Engineer wouldn’t have it any other way. I can understand this when they are putting their signature on the car. I ended up getting heavy duty Futofab axles. Cost about $1500, but this also included VW adaptor to the old wolf creek racing cv’s, also included a quick disconnect adapter to keep my cv lengths in check. I went this way because the HD axles will give me some reassurance if I need to do a diff upgrade down the track. Dave from Futofab was good to deal with.

I’ll run spacers past the engineer, but Farley certain he wasn’t happy with this option. it has created a predicament, I already had rbx rota’s, (yes these will not pass either, for the offset) on the car when the engineer first inspected some time ago. There was no mention of wheel stud pattern then, but recent discussions around brakes led to the problem at hand. Ultimately my fault, thought stud pattern was a non issue, but power delivery is his concern. so it would be useful to easily revert to 4 stud to save my wheels, but I fear I’ll be buying a new set. Hence looking for an acceptable cheaper option for the stock axles over billet items thanks very much for input

This was a thought, could be a dumb idea, what do you guys think? machine a ring for the backside of the flange. Drill and tap 3 existing stud holes, then bolt new ring to back side of axle flange. Bolt heads could cause an Interference problem with new studs here? drill new pattern through both flanges and install extended studs. tig small areas between stud holes around outer edges to reduce heat effected zone. or is this over thinking it?

Thanks for the input, engineer will only be marginally happy if I weld to cast. Thought I should pursue this avenue before re mortgaging my home for billet axles

Can’t seem to find info on this, sorry if it’s has been covered. Are the rear hub axles forged or cast steel? Reason being, wanting to go 5 stud, however have concerns with structural integrity of the face flange with 5x114.3 pcd. would like to add material if possible. otherwise shelling out for billet. thanks for help in advance

All these parts are available because I backed out of the Rb build. Inevitably make a loss due to changing my mind. Hopefully it will make someone else happy.