C.A.R.

Why have you converted to a cable? There's nothing wrong with the standard linkage rods...

Top right hand corner: https://www.viczcar.com/

You cant have that section as it belongs to the Z it's sitting on!

Thanks mate. I can assure you that is not the case!

The LH side got the same treatment and was given a new rail: (You'll have to excuse this strange photo) We then turned our attention to the radiator support panel - which was not right at all... When this thing had it major accident many moons ago, it had the RH front skirt & rail replaced - BADLY. Whoever did the repair had some oxy welding skill, but obviously knew nothing of panel repair and fitup... If you look closely at the lower radiator cross-member, you can see the join just to the side: The top of the radiator panel was also badly fitted up - the join was overlapped, twisted and bent down in the middle! It was all going to have be repaired...

I need to back-track a bit... The remaininig rust was repaired in the skirt: the cross member reinforcement 'pocket' and the front of the skirt had a new section made and welded into place. We then applied rust converter followed by KBS'ing the inside of the skirt and new chassis rail. The cross member gusset was blasted, repaired and prepped for reinstalling. The new LH rail was prepped and installed:

They are all the same unless they are staked... I suggest you use Hardy-Spicer R series UJ's too (they don't have a grease gallery).

M10x1.25, 25mm long, Nissan grade 9 I don't have a Nissan part number, I'm afraid.

Trev - dont bin the original wet legs! They are a very good, durable unit with new fluid. Just remove the old assembly's, wash/scrub everything down in brake cleaner, then refill them with 320ml of ATF. This will be far better than the KYB's! Sell the KYB on to someone who needs them.

It's still noisy, but it is quieter then the Carter. It does depend on how well you insulate their mounting though...

For those who require one, the fit is excellent.

Yeah they 'can' be unreliable. Do you have a pre-pump filter fitted? New ones aren't as good as the old ones, either If it does it again, look into replacing it with a Pierburg roller cell pump.

LS? Why?

https://www.letmegooglethat.com/?q=All+muscle+parts+240Z+bonnet

I'll pm you what to get Nick, in a couple of days.

Next was the big job... The chassis rail. The engine cross-member support gusset had a rust hole, so I unpicked it to reveal the state to the skirt behind it: Nothing else for it but to remove the chassis rail now: This photo really shots how rusty early Z rails get... If your 240Z engine bay frame rails haven't been replaced, how rust free are they...?

Next I moved onto the front of the LH skirt - the tin worm had gotten into this area, so I took a pattern, made a replacement section and welded it into place:

Do you know in what direction it went?

Top and bottom Radiator hoses. The two heater hoses that come out of the firewall, and the little curved hose at the heater box. The coolant hose that runs front to back along the RH side of the engine. The remaining water hoses that go through the intake manifold can be deleted. Get a new non-emissions fuel tank vent hose while you are ordering. For the fuel hose I just use the better EFI spec rubber fuel hose. Brake booster vacuum hose: you have to buy the loooooong US spec emissions gas tank vent hose with the hook end, then shove a coat-hanger up it and bend it to shape.

Next was the repair of the skirt below the battery tray - a panel I hate making because of the reverse curve it has in it. A fair bit of work, however I'm pretty happy with how the repair came out.

They are exactly the same Mike.