C.A.R.

Is this a troll?

Do you know in what direction it went?

As I have said, you need a S13/S14 Silvia gearbox. And R31/R32 Skyline box will be too short (50mm too short).

For sale: New clutch and brake hose set: $180 New Late model gearbox cross member bushes: $40 Can post at buyers expense. PM me if you want them.

It's only got two outlets...

I'm concentrating on the fuel system at the moment as some customization is required, due to the triplets. On the engine dyno, Les Collins ran the fuel in from the rear of the engine, but because the factory fuel hard lines are being used I need to run the fuel lines in from the front. Les was against this idea due to heat soak from the radiator causing vapor lock and wanted me to run the fuel across the back of the firewall or across the top of the radiator support panel. I understand Les's concern, but both options are unsightly and difficult to implement neatly. Now I could just use rubber hose and P clips to run from the fuel filter on the RH side of the engine bay and across the front of the tappet cover, but that's unsightly and unprofessional so I decided to make my own short fuel rail from some 3/8" (8mm) bundy tube. I've since remade this again with the mounts being silvered soldered on instead of the unsightly TIG welds (bundy is difficult to weld nicely!) I'll be adding some heat shielding to it once it's come back from plating. Second problem was the straight fuel banjo fitting on the front Weber - it needed to have a 90deg bend on it to point at the new fuel rail. I called Weber Performance to see if a suitable fitting was available but Daniel informed me no such fitting exists. Bugger! My only option was to cut and rotate the banjo fitting. First I dipped the fitting into Hydrochloric acid to remove the plating, then - sweating bullets - I carefully cut the end off the fitting at 45deg. This would then allow me to rotate it to 90deg. I then TIG welded it into position at the correct orientation. A quick leak check and it can now go off to be replated. The fuel pump is a 'pusher' Pierburg rollercell item rated to 600hp (should be 'just' adequate) and this needs to be mounted as close as possible to the fuel tank with a 30micron pre-filter before it. There's not much room to make it a neat install, so watch this space... Also because of the higher pressure the Pierburg delivers, a fuel pressure regulator is now required. I procured a Malpassi FPR from Weber Performance and I've mounted it on a bracket just below the fuel filer on the RH inner skirt (photo to come).

So the wiring harness caused Jon and I some consternation - when I got the wiring loom out to install it into the freshly painted body it struck me that this was probably unwise to put a 48yo wiring harness back into an effectively new car... I spoke with Jon and he agreed that something should be done about it, so I called Vintage Wiring Harness's to enquire about a new loom. I was rather taken aback when I was told it was a 6 month wait for a new loom! But upon reflection, this is not out of the ordinary for the restoration industry at the moment. After informing Jon of this he rang around all the numbers in the phone book looking for a company that could make us a new loom, but it was the same story - they were all booked out for months. In a last ditch attempt to rectify the situation, I spoke with a fellow forum member and Z owner to see if he would be interested in at least refurbishing the original loom for us, as he is a bit of a wiring guru and Jon's Z loom was in good, original condition - and thankfully he said yes. All new plugs (where available) were replaced along with the pins, then it was all lovingly retaped in proper loom tape - no electrical tape here. It was also a damn sight cheaper than a complete new loom... So that's the story of Jon's 240Z loom!

They aren't rubber - they are suppose to be hard plastic with molded in rubber ends

Tape. They covered the holes from factory in Australian delivered Zeds (possibly all RHD export HS30's). They are the mounting holes for a electric fuel pump bracket.

WHY did you cut the wires!?!?!

Oh yeah, this thing won an award at the Nissan Datsun Nationals at Easter.

E46 M3 with a manual conversion.

I used to promote rear disc conversions, but I've learnt a bit in the last few years... If you use the R31 caliper and disc setup 'as is', you actually have LESS braking performance than the drums. COD goes way down... Also the handbrake is more or less useless in the conversion. If you really want rear discs and run 15in wheels, Les Collins has custom CNC steel adaptor brackets on the shelf - to run R31 calipers on larger NA Z31 rear rotors - and this setup clocks the caliper at 5deg rearward to make the caliper easy to bleed. Also included are remade handbrake cables to make everything work correctly. This setup actually works and IS an improvement over the drums and R31 discs. I have the competed assembly for my Z - If I get time I'll take a photo...

Alan is correct - your Z would have been fitted with the '71A' box from the factory. Hence the interesting mod to the tail-shaft you have discovered, and the leaver hitting the front of the tunnel. I have to disagree slightly with Alan on the 71A units, as they are quite a bit slower in shifting and less accurate in action then a B or C box. Also the cost to rebuild the 'Monkey Motion' shift mechanism to an acceptable standard is eyewatering - nearly $1000 to make it serviceable. Not only that, the bulk-ring synchro's are expensive to buy and they are not fast to engage (compared to the brass warner style), hence a slower shifting gearbox... Other 71A parts are also somewhat harder to acquire (read expensive) here in Australia too. To fully rebuild one you are looking at around $3500 (including labour). Of course the decision is yours Ryan about what you use and how original you want to make your Z. If you are aiming for an original restoration, use the 71A box you have. If not, use a late model S13/S14 Silvia 71C box as this will bring the shifter up in the correct position. Finally, the gearbox in your photo is most likely a wide ratio 71B box with brass synchro's on 1st through 4th, and a steel bulk ring on 5th. In other words it's a 240K gearbox and it worth about $200 HTH

No.

As far as I know they are originals, however the owner has new ones to go in.

See here: https://www.facebook.com/george.glossd

Road Z? Stick with the drums.

If you are going to the Nissan Datsun Nationals 2021 in SA at Easter, you'll see this car there. Now that the paint has had a few months to really harden, the owner has just had full the full paint correction process completed on it, and I must say it looks... well, I'll let the photos do the talking:

A mate of mine is a professional automotive photographer and he stopped by the shop today to take a few photos...

E30? They have teeny, tiny ports and are normally on L20A's... You've be better off with and E88e or an E88 with welded chambers. BTW, that head it quite repairable - Les Colling Racing over here repairs them all the time.

I think you'll find Gav has a handle on the situation...

It's starting... Some of the panels from KFVintage have arrived...