C.A.R.

Completely false. It's an old panel beaters excuse they use because they can't weld and can't 'afford' the time to butt weld a panel in correctly. There's no AS for 'vehicle restoration' - feel free to look it up. Also repairs to a vehicle over 10 years old don't actually require an inspection or engineers report, unless significant chassis modifications have been made. I do however need to state this: unless you are competent welder and have some idea rust repairs, it's best left to professionals.

Inside of the guards have now been painted with stonechip and colour. And the inside of the bonnet, doors and hatch are now in colour. I'm still waiting on the plating to come back from the electroplaters...

Oh shit! I painted the underbody in beige, the engine bay in off-white and the interior in ivory! Back to the paint booth I go...

I know exactly how it was achieved. However, like Greg's Green Hornet engine in California, Les Collins as asked me not to disclose details.

Pedals are all the same. The pedal box is different.

Either will work.

MagnafFlow. My local exhaust shop supplied it.

Just for you Jon - as discussed - it's painted in a combination of the cream, the bone, the off-white, the white, the ivory and the beige.

Colour is now on the underside and engine bay. It's coming back to the workshop shortly, however there will be a delay as my electroplaters are performing maintenance on their equipment. Hopefully by late Feb we can start assembly once I get all the parts back...

You should have seen what the painter looked like afterwards!

Finally got colour on in the cabin!

Goodbye $10k...!

First dry rub is underway!

Hit it with a (really) big hammer.

The Nissan Part number is staring you in the face...

A member of this forum is building a Z with a CS kit. Was expensive once customs duty & GST was added. AND it needs reworking in a couple of sections. Wild looking kit though...

There's a weld and lead-loaded joint there - it's cracked because the body has flexed. If you don't want to repaint it for the moment, dribble some superglue into the crack. That'll seal it until you are ready to repaint.

Thanks for the comments everyone ☺️ One thing I will add that's not in the photos - the exhaust. The original secondary's were still there(!), but it was badly welded to a horrible ugly steel press bent rear section with bypass mufflers fitted. The rear muffler was rusted out, so I spoke to the owner about a new system... I carefully cut away the old system from where it joined the secondary's, then Tig welded on a step joint. Following this I had the secondary's media blasted, then I gave them a coat of exhaust paint. The rest of the new system I made out of 304 stainless steel 2inch mandrel bends, with straight through 2inch mufflers. I even retrofitted the original(!) S/S tip - this had managed to stay on the car all these years! Even though it's a straight through system it's still nice and quiet. And it'll never rust!

It's taken a while as my painter is busy but he's also being quite diligent, but it's now got it's first of two coats of high build primer. This first coat will be sanded down, then the next coat will be applied. Engine bay, interior and underbody will be painted wet on wet in colour in a week or two. Then it comes back to me to have the driveline fitted etc. Then it goes back for its topcoat... Exciting times!

https://www.northvicengines.com.au/ stocks them.

Yes. It's a factory combination, young Padawan.

Happy New Year Everyone

Junk. Call Les Collins in Vic - he'll sell you some quality Aussie made pipes that will actually work...

Have you checked behind the couch?

Use the Turbo pump.