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RLY240

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RLY240 last won the day on April 27

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About RLY240

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  1. I find the main thing is to make sure the bowls are all full, on mine that means perhaps 10 cycles on the ignition to reset the relay if it's been sitting for more than a few days. Putting an override on the relay for priming is a good idea (that I should steal). Then two full pumps on the pedal should be enough for a cold start but it will need some throttle to idle on that cam while cold unless you have the idle set quite high. Mine is still a pig to start when cold regardless but the above certainly helps. But it's still a whole lot better than my road car on SU's which fouls the plugs and takes 5 mins driving to really clear. Roger
  2. Agree, would be nice to see how they stack up.
  3. Maygz, I don’t disagree with you, my comments about the SAI not changing related to Peter’s diagram where he was expecting a change to the intersection of the SAI and the contact patch which doesn’t change. Sure, pushing the lower ball joint outboard increase the actual KPI angle and also camber angle but doesn’t affect the relationship between the strut and the tyre. Roger.
  4. As others have already said directional stability is mostly affected by castor or toe. Higher positive castor (ie lengthen the compression rod) creates a useful self centring effect but makes the steering heavier. Toe out might be good on a race car as it promotes good feel on initial turn in but this also makes the car nervous, so running zero or even a small amount of toe in at the front helps reduce this and is what you should run on a street car. Also don't count out the rear of the car, make sure there is a small amount of toe in across the rear. Plus all the bits are 50 years old and there is bound to be play in everything. My road car has mostly new bushes and ball joints etc but is still a little wander prone and just the slightest play in the steering rack means chasing the car all the time. Our rally car on the other hand has a rebuilt rack with no play (and electric power steer) and is actually nicer to steer. If you are bottoming out on the highway then I suspect you have the car set very low indeed, our tarmac rally car rarely touches the ground (exhaust) and that's after it has used all the bump stop travel first. If you have the car that low then it's possible you are already very close to the bump stops which apart from making the ride very harsh will certainly introduce weird handling if you end up running on the stops. Our rally car runs only 3deg camber on the front and comfortably tracks at 200kmh on some stages and while you do have to hang on it's certainly not fighting you in a straight line or I wouldn't be driving it! I'd be looking to put a bit more castor in first (lengthen the compression rods) and set the front toe to zero or 1-2mm in and go from there. Roger
  5. Hi Peter, not sure if I understand what you're trying to articulate above but relocating the inboard LCA pickup point (or even swapping to a longer aftermarket LCA) won't affect the SAI as the relationship between the top strut mount and the lower ball joint doesn't change, it's fixed. The only way to alter the SAI on a strut setup is with different offset wheels or to change the angle of the strut tube to the hub carrier. Your changes above will certainly change the track, the bump steer characteristics, the roll centre and also camber gain rates but not the SAI. Roger
  6. You got it wet already? That didn't take long! Roger
  7. Good luck with the sale Pete.
  8. And another in car vid, this one sees me trying to chase down some other Zeds and then a couple of "oops" moments at the end to prove I was actually trying.
  9. In car video from my last lap at Sandown, I'm sure there's more time to be made if I ever get back there.
  10. Short vid from the show and shine at Nissan HQ on Saturday, hopefully someone has some pics because I only took a couple. Roger
  11. Sorry you couldn’t make it, the weather stayed away and we had a great run with 6 sessions and no major incidents for a safe and enjoyable day. Can anyone tell me if a 1:28:4 is acceptable for a first timer? Roger
  12. Will depend on your setup really but 30 hot is a reasonable base and you should expect a 7 or 8 psi gain from cold.
  13. At the risk of confusing or contradicting myself, I believe the wiring is in line with below. I have 2 x 240z one later than the other and the later was already butchered with relays but the earlier car I modded as below. The factory lights are wired with permanent power (via seperate LHS and RHS fuses) to the lights and then ground switched with full current at the stalk. Diagram attached, forgive the hand drawn nature. So to switch to relays you basically remove the permanent power (R and RY) at the light connector and make this the ground point for the lights. Then you can use the R power from the loom and the stalk switch earths to energise the relays with fresh fused power and earth from a better source (ie batt or alternator). You can then intercept the RB and RW lines from the stalk and use these to send the switched relay power to the lights. it’s messy but it works. Your issue will be working out what the previous owner did to intercept the signal wires. Best of luck. Roger.
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