krizza

Just my opinion after having a fire due to spitting back into paper air cleaners, but I would run the airbox. I built one after my fire and have a filter sitting in front of the radiator for it. I went with paper filters thinking they would be less flammable than the foam socks, but not so! Thankfully I had a fire extinguisher in the car

I have an efi N42 head (44mm intake valves) on my L26 with stock A grind cam and did not need to notch the block As others have said I wouldn't waste my time with the forester turbo. I would prefer something with a "standard" dump flange instead of the Subaru style, and pick something that will flow enough for your power goals at the lowest boost possible. I made 250 rwhp with a S14 T28 on my old CA18 (using 4 x 440cc GTR injectors), but that was at 17psi. Seeing as you have 2.6L of exhaust to play with I think a GT3076 (or a T3/T04E) would be the go, but even a stock rb25 turbo would do the trick for that power level

Hey Piquet, sorry to hear about that. Any particular reason you need to run MK63 calipers? (homologation for racing etc) . If MK63s aren't a necessity you can pick up brand new reproduction early hilux calipers which are 4 pot that are a straight bolt on to standard disks which give a bigger pad area than the factory 2 pots. I have these fitted to my 2+2 and they work great even with the stock MC. I just had to bend the stock hard brake lines to suit the new calipers and trim the backing plates with some tin snips to get them to fit.

G'day Mick, I use a HKB boss kit and the distance between the bottom of the nut (the side that touches the boss) and the outside face of my Nardi wheel is ~26mm. The whole boss is ~55mm wide. Looking at some Google images of the Autotechnica boss kits they look pretty tall. I hope that helps. Regards, Kris

The Skillard style molding is a completely different profile to the one I used. There is no way that would fit under the chrome strip, plus I liked the idea that any water would run off the door instead of making it's way into the door skin via the ends of the rubber. It doesn't look as clean, but is functional and a similar design to the Commodore door belt setup. I didn't like the look of the Skillard type molding as the rubber looked very tall, although in your pic it doesn't look too bad

Nobody? Was hoping some of our experienced members could comment before I commit. It is a fair bit of coin to outlay once you buy a new cam and lash pads, reface rockers etc if it is going to drive like a dog and be pulled straight back out again. Was looking along the lines of the Schneider 274F with 0.440" lift -https://02a7287.netsolstores.com/274FL6.aspx or the Comp Cams 260S - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/333313781187?hash=item4d9b0cadc3:g:xc0AAOSwARZXj36T

Paired with a set of Kings low springs and poly bushes throughout, I am very happy with the handling of my bus now

For the record I replaced both front and rear struts in my 75 2+2 with 55mm front struts with KYB ExcelG inserts and here are the part numbers I used

G'day guys, I have been contemplating a cam swap on my 260z, but I am unsure if it is worth the effort and would appreciate any input from the experienced guys here. I have a healthy L26 with stock dished pistons and an N42 efi head which was skimmed and reconned after my original E88 was replaced due to cracks. The supporting mods are 40mm DCOEs with 30mm chokes, a Fast XR700 ignition system, and 2 1/2" free flowing exhaust with headers. The car has great throttle response and feels torquey down low, but runs out of breath by about 5k rpm. It also has the standard 3.7 diff ratio and close ratio 260z 5 speed I would like it to make more power up to 6 - 6.5k rpm, but I am unsure if due to the stock compression I am wasting my time with a cam swap. I am not looking to go with crazy lift etc, probably something in the 260 - 270 degree duration range with .420 - .460" lift to accommodate the stock valve gear. I would like to hear is anyone has cammed a setup similar to this, and if it is worth the effort without upping the compression, going for bigger lift than the stock valve gear can handle etc and what grind/s would work best for this type of configuration. Cheers, Kris

To answer your question, I have the 700-0231 fitted to my 75 2+2 and it works great. Much better than the Pertronix rubbish it replaced But if you can find a 280zx dizzy that would be a better option imo

Just wanted to post my results using the profile mentioned by AndBir to replace my rock hard window rubbers. I actually bought the length required from here for $60 - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/233226011571?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 Looks very similar to the profile CBR Jeff got from zcarsource, and is nicely flocked on the window wiper. I ground off the staples holding my old rubbers to the stainless and used 3.2mm (4.8mm depth) aluminium rivets to install the new rubbers. I think they turned out really well, so many thanks to AndBir for the tip which spurred me on to finally do something about them.

I have a similar welder, but haven't had any success getting penetration with the 0.8mm wire with anything over about 3mm steel. Looking at this chart - https://images.machineryhouse.com.au/products/W186/PDF/Welding-Wire-Diameter-CHART.pdf you would need 1.2mm gasless wire to get enough heat into the weld for 10mm plate. I did try to weld up the carb linkage rod (about 8mm diameter) when I fitted the webers and had to shorten it, but ended up taking it to someone as I couldn't get enough heat into it with the 0.8mm wire I had

I can understand the passion because rx7's of any vintage are such great looking cars. I could just never bring myself to own a rotary (although I came close in my 20s with a powder blue Grp C kitted S1, but ended up with my first Z instead :-) )

Haha, agree to disagree Gav. Rotaries have no longevity and cheat with their quoted capacity. They drink fuel because they are really a much bigger capacity motor than advertised. Wouldn't stop me having an FD though (with an LS in it!)

G'day guys, I am getting sick of the 40DCOE webers and am looking for a factory turbo manifold to convert my L26 to efi turbo. If anybody has one they would part with I would be keen to buy. Cheers, Kris