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About krizza

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 10/31/1974

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    Perth WA
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  1. I'm with PeterT. I tried the pertronix and was unhappy with the result. I changed to the Fast xr700 and am very happy with it. Great ignition and no issues. If you want to keep the stock tacho then this is the best choice imho. If not then an MSD 6AL is the go.
  2. Good to know Linton. I just looked through the wiring diagrams in my Haynes manual and it looks like Nissan went to a different setup in the later cars that share a common battery + feed, so that is how they arrive at 3 circuits with 4 wires.
  3. G'day guys, I am in the middle of rebuilding a fs5w71c from a ca18det for my Z, and am chasing an L series bellhousing to complete the conversion. If anybody has a busted 71b / 71c? box from an L series I would be keen to purchase the bellhousing or whole box (in Perth preferably - not sure how shipping would go due to size / weight) Cheers, Kris
  4. G'day Ben, I am wondering if someone has had already had a go at your fusible links and changed them because what you have there doesn't make any sense to me. ie. how can you have 4 input wires and 3 fusible links? I have a 1975 260z 2+2 and I have attached pics of the wiring and my conversion to plug in fusible links. My car has the shunt and had an amp gauge, but I converted to volt meter as the amp gauge was broken. As you can see the 4 input wires on mine are battery (80A) and ignition (40A), so I am assuming your 4 input wires are the same. I hope this helps, Kris
  5. This was a fantastic day, and big thanks to the guys from WA Z register for putting it on. Pics are here - https://www.wazregister.com/index.php?title=Z_Day_2020
  6. If the carbs are off the manifold it is easy to set the butterflies by inspecting their location in relation to the first progression hole when viewed from inside. If they are already installed on the car you remove the inspection plugs and use a torch to view the location of the edge of the butterfly in relation to the first progression hole. Once you have read all the literature a few times and then go over the carbs you get a feel for it. Either way it is something you need to do by eye. One of these style carb synchronisers is essential to get them balanced and a good investment
  7. All sorted now! I managed to track down 4 new baulk rings today locally, so the rebuild can progress. Big thanks to Martin Falconer at TuneRight. Really helpful, nice guy.
  8. Thanks for the feedback guys. I have contacted SW Motorsport to see if Stew is able to help source a replacement synchro ring, and am waiting to hear back. If anyone is wrecking a gearbox and has a good condition steel synchro I would still be keen in case I can't track down a new one. HS30-H, I was surprised as I didn't realise the C and W denoted the type of synchro and I thought that B boxes onwards used the BW type synchros. You are right about the misinformation on the web though, but you live and you learn!
  9. Gday guys, Just finished pulling down my FS5C71B (71A??) 5 speed due to a very crunchy second gear only to find that it doesn't use Borg Warner type synchros as I expected(I had already bought a kit with these in preparation for the rebuild), instead it has the Porsche style steel servo synchros. I can see that all other gears look good, but second gear synchro is very polished and stuffed. My mistake as I thought the C was for Close ratio and W was for Wide, apparently it denotes the type of synchro used. My searches have come to nought as these appear to be NLA, so hoping some
  10. Gav, from what I understand the pertronix will not be an issue in this type of setup as it is only being used as a CAS. The Megasquirt will be controlling timing and dwell etc. I did think about going with an MSD CDI setup and using the Pertronix as the trigger, but in the end I decided I didn't need the CDI for my relatively stock setup (stock motor with 40DCOEs) and wanting to keep my stock tacho working I went with the XR700 instead.
  11. The issue I had with using the pertronix unit was that the dwell was too low and caused misfire issues higher in the rev range. I contacted pertronix who told me the 20 degrees dwell I was seeing was normal, but this is nowhere near enough to saturate the coil at higher rpms. When I swapped the points back in the problem went away. I modified it and ended up with around 28 degrees dwell before the pickup was losing signal from the magnet, which improved the problem but didn't completely solve the ignition breakdown at higher revs.I know other people seem to use them but I dont know how th
  12. I replaced my rusty original with a brass 90 degree fitting from Supercheap. It was in one of those small packs that they sell nuts, bolts, etc in. Figured that it was a good idea to replace it with something that won't rust like the factory part does.
  13. Greg, I bought one of the leather boots from Supercheap to replace my cracked original when I bought a new console, and had to modify it to fit as it doesn't work as is. The vinyl boots look to be the same design, so something to consider. I had to unpick the stitching on the bottom that holds the spring wire to get enough length to fit the hole in the Z console, and it was still a tight strech to get it to work..
  14. I dont think point gap or dwell angle will have any effect on the tach. The 280z tach is a much better option imo, because you can get it to work with electronic ignition systems and cdi boxes. Sounds like that is the way to go.
  15. Sorry Greg, you are right I was responding to twoforty z. Twoforty z, all of the wires you described are factory fitted and need to be wired as per the diagram Greg posted above. Both b/w wires connected to the coil will not provide the correct signal through the tach for it to work. Of course the other potential issue once the wiring is put back in the correct order is that the tach may be bad. These induction loop tachs seem to be pretty flakey. The original in my car was intermittently faulty when I bought it, and a replacement I bought off the forum was DOA too. I had my original r
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