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Everything posted by RLY240

  1. If your question is "can I drive the circuit sometime over the weekend" then the answer is no. The track is generally closed to all but resident access from Tuesday or Wednesday right through to the following Tuesday. You can walk the track but you can't drive it. Roger
  2. Also be aware of size limits with Shopmate, I tried to send a rust repair section that came in a box that turned out to be larger than their max allowed. Only options were to pay for return shipping to the supplier and hope they would accept the return or pay Shopmate to dispose of the item. Not a good ending. Shopmate will also collect the GST for items and charge you for that before posting. Not an issue for eBay etc who already collect the GST but for private shipping from independent sellers this takes away any hope of getting away without paying the GST. Roger
  3. I find the main thing is to make sure the bowls are all full, on mine that means perhaps 10 cycles on the ignition to reset the relay if it's been sitting for more than a few days. Putting an override on the relay for priming is a good idea (that I should steal). Then two full pumps on the pedal should be enough for a cold start but it will need some throttle to idle on that cam while cold unless you have the idle set quite high. Mine is still a pig to start when cold regardless but the above certainly helps. But it's still a whole lot better than my road car on SU's which fouls the plugs and takes 5 mins driving to really clear. Roger
  4. Agree, would be nice to see how they stack up.
  5. Maygz, I don’t disagree with you, my comments about the SAI not changing related to Peter’s diagram where he was expecting a change to the intersection of the SAI and the contact patch which doesn’t change. Sure, pushing the lower ball joint outboard increase the actual KPI angle and also camber angle but doesn’t affect the relationship between the strut and the tyre. Roger.
  6. As others have already said directional stability is mostly affected by castor or toe. Higher positive castor (ie lengthen the compression rod) creates a useful self centring effect but makes the steering heavier. Toe out might be good on a race car as it promotes good feel on initial turn in but this also makes the car nervous, so running zero or even a small amount of toe in at the front helps reduce this and is what you should run on a street car. Also don't count out the rear of the car, make sure there is a small amount of toe in across the rear. Plus all the bits are 50 years old and there is bound to be play in everything. My road car has mostly new bushes and ball joints etc but is still a little wander prone and just the slightest play in the steering rack means chasing the car all the time. Our rally car on the other hand has a rebuilt rack with no play (and electric power steer) and is actually nicer to steer. If you are bottoming out on the highway then I suspect you have the car set very low indeed, our tarmac rally car rarely touches the ground (exhaust) and that's after it has used all the bump stop travel first. If you have the car that low then it's possible you are already very close to the bump stops which apart from making the ride very harsh will certainly introduce weird handling if you end up running on the stops. Our rally car runs only 3deg camber on the front and comfortably tracks at 200kmh on some stages and while you do have to hang on it's certainly not fighting you in a straight line or I wouldn't be driving it! I'd be looking to put a bit more castor in first (lengthen the compression rods) and set the front toe to zero or 1-2mm in and go from there. Roger
  7. Hi Peter, not sure if I understand what you're trying to articulate above but relocating the inboard LCA pickup point (or even swapping to a longer aftermarket LCA) won't affect the SAI as the relationship between the top strut mount and the lower ball joint doesn't change, it's fixed. The only way to alter the SAI on a strut setup is with different offset wheels or to change the angle of the strut tube to the hub carrier. Your changes above will certainly change the track, the bump steer characteristics, the roll centre and also camber gain rates but not the SAI. Roger
  8. You got it wet already? That didn't take long! Roger
  9. Good luck with the sale Pete.
  10. And another in car vid, this one sees me trying to chase down some other Zeds and then a couple of "oops" moments at the end to prove I was actually trying.
  11. In car video from my last lap at Sandown, I'm sure there's more time to be made if I ever get back there.
  12. Short vid from the show and shine at Nissan HQ on Saturday, hopefully someone has some pics because I only took a couple. Roger
  13. Sorry you couldn’t make it, the weather stayed away and we had a great run with 6 sessions and no major incidents for a safe and enjoyable day. Can anyone tell me if a 1:28:4 is acceptable for a first timer? Roger
  14. Will depend on your setup really but 30 hot is a reasonable base and you should expect a 7 or 8 psi gain from cold.
  15. At the risk of confusing or contradicting myself, I believe the wiring is in line with below. I have 2 x 240z one later than the other and the later was already butchered with relays but the earlier car I modded as below. The factory lights are wired with permanent power (via seperate LHS and RHS fuses) to the lights and then ground switched with full current at the stalk. Diagram attached, forgive the hand drawn nature. So to switch to relays you basically remove the permanent power (R and RY) at the light connector and make this the ground point for the lights. Then you can use the R power from the loom and the stalk switch earths to energise the relays with fresh fused power and earth from a better source (ie batt or alternator). You can then intercept the RB and RW lines from the stalk and use these to send the switched relay power to the lights. it’s messy but it works. Your issue will be working out what the previous owner did to intercept the signal wires. Best of luck. Roger.
  16. I think this is the rough template I worked on for mine. It’s still using the existing stalk to switch low current and using this to energise the relays. It’s still switching positive not negative but means you don’t need to modify the stalk. Rather than cut into the loom near the lights I tapped into the wires at the major plugs under the dash where the front loom joins the dash loom. https://goo.gl/images/6PzjTU I’m sure there are other threads here with this info too, I seem to have lost the diagram and notes I used for mine sorry. Roger
  17. Hi Jeff, has the headlight loom been modified to use relays? The stock system (at least on the 240) switches the positive through the stalk so all the current goes through the main switch. When installing relays to reduce the current at the switch it’s common to swap over to a switched earth as this is more common on relays. It’s possible the loom has been modified which won’t be helping.
  18. If it's a 240z tach then the power feed for the coil is actually looped trough an induction pickup externally on the tacho. The power feed still comes from an ignition switched source so if you're desperate to start it then you can power the coil from any ignition switched source.
  19. There's a number of ways to make this work, the belt kit from Rare Spares includes an enormous bracket that is supposed to mount the retractor almost 200mm in mid air using the original bottom mount point. I chose to instead make a new mount on the wheel arch with a captured nut and spreader plate under the guard. Once painted with stoneguard you can't see it with the wheel on but it does need some rust protection to stop the bolt eventually rusting into the nut. I looked at a couple of options before going this way as it means the full seat travel is available (I'm 6'3) and the function meant more to me than keeping the original look. Roger
  20. Looking fantastic Jeff, can’t wait to see it on the road.
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