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Everything posted by RLY240

  1. Agree, there isn't enough rust in the front half to match the rear..... Chassis number on the firewall doesn't appear to be right either.
  2. 1mm at the wheel rim is a reasonable amount. I run about 1mm toe in at the rear total and about 1mm out at the front per side.
  3. RLY240

    Triple manifold

    Too late sorry, now spoken for.
  4. RLY240

    Triple manifold

    What makes it better suited to LHD?
  5. RLY240

    Triple manifold

    I’ve got this Mikuni manifold that is pretty short if you are interested.
  6. Are the dash / loom different for auto and manual cars such that there would need to be separate items for each? I know the auto has a light for the selector mech and there is a kick down switch and start lockout switches but assumed the dash would still be the same ie be wired for both. Guess not though.
  7. Definitely a factory auto for 1410 but can't vouch for the history of the glovebox. It's in great condition so may well have been swapped over at some point.
  8. I’m throwing my 280zx spare box in so when you beat me at Bathurst next week I’ll at least have a good excuse.
  9. Agree but have just destroyed my current Kameari gearbox so trying to cut costs.
  10. Unfortunately we lunched the gearbox in the 240z at Targa High Country on Sunday so rather then replace with another 280zx box I'm looking to go with an S15 Silvia 6 speed. Anyone have one for sale or got a lead on an S15 gearbox? Roger
  11. I think Tim had one in his pile of parts, not in his listing but give him a call. Roger
  12. Might be an odd question but while cleaning and setting float levels in my PHH carbs a small conical brass washer was dislodged from somewhere and I’m buggered if I can work out where it is supposed to be. It fits inside the needle and seat but I can’t image why on earth it would be in there. Anyone seen anything like it?
  13. If your question is "can I drive the circuit sometime over the weekend" then the answer is no. The track is generally closed to all but resident access from Tuesday or Wednesday right through to the following Tuesday. You can walk the track but you can't drive it. Roger
  14. Also be aware of size limits with Shopmate, I tried to send a rust repair section that came in a box that turned out to be larger than their max allowed. Only options were to pay for return shipping to the supplier and hope they would accept the return or pay Shopmate to dispose of the item. Not a good ending. Shopmate will also collect the GST for items and charge you for that before posting. Not an issue for eBay etc who already collect the GST but for private shipping from independent sellers this takes away any hope of getting away without paying the GST. Roger
  15. I find the main thing is to make sure the bowls are all full, on mine that means perhaps 10 cycles on the ignition to reset the relay if it's been sitting for more than a few days. Putting an override on the relay for priming is a good idea (that I should steal). Then two full pumps on the pedal should be enough for a cold start but it will need some throttle to idle on that cam while cold unless you have the idle set quite high. Mine is still a pig to start when cold regardless but the above certainly helps. But it's still a whole lot better than my road car on SU's which fouls the plugs and takes 5 mins driving to really clear. Roger
  16. Agree, would be nice to see how they stack up.
  17. Maygz, I don’t disagree with you, my comments about the SAI not changing related to Peter’s diagram where he was expecting a change to the intersection of the SAI and the contact patch which doesn’t change. Sure, pushing the lower ball joint outboard increase the actual KPI angle and also camber angle but doesn’t affect the relationship between the strut and the tyre. Roger.
  18. As others have already said directional stability is mostly affected by castor or toe. Higher positive castor (ie lengthen the compression rod) creates a useful self centring effect but makes the steering heavier. Toe out might be good on a race car as it promotes good feel on initial turn in but this also makes the car nervous, so running zero or even a small amount of toe in at the front helps reduce this and is what you should run on a street car. Also don't count out the rear of the car, make sure there is a small amount of toe in across the rear. Plus all the bits are 50 years old and there is bound to be play in everything. My road car has mostly new bushes and ball joints etc but is still a little wander prone and just the slightest play in the steering rack means chasing the car all the time. Our rally car on the other hand has a rebuilt rack with no play (and electric power steer) and is actually nicer to steer. If you are bottoming out on the highway then I suspect you have the car set very low indeed, our tarmac rally car rarely touches the ground (exhaust) and that's after it has used all the bump stop travel first. If you have the car that low then it's possible you are already very close to the bump stops which apart from making the ride very harsh will certainly introduce weird handling if you end up running on the stops. Our rally car runs only 3deg camber on the front and comfortably tracks at 200kmh on some stages and while you do have to hang on it's certainly not fighting you in a straight line or I wouldn't be driving it! I'd be looking to put a bit more castor in first (lengthen the compression rods) and set the front toe to zero or 1-2mm in and go from there. Roger
  19. Hi Peter, not sure if I understand what you're trying to articulate above but relocating the inboard LCA pickup point (or even swapping to a longer aftermarket LCA) won't affect the SAI as the relationship between the top strut mount and the lower ball joint doesn't change, it's fixed. The only way to alter the SAI on a strut setup is with different offset wheels or to change the angle of the strut tube to the hub carrier. Your changes above will certainly change the track, the bump steer characteristics, the roll centre and also camber gain rates but not the SAI. Roger
  20. You got it wet already? That didn't take long! Roger
  21. Good luck with the sale Pete.
  22. And another in car vid, this one sees me trying to chase down some other Zeds and then a couple of "oops" moments at the end to prove I was actually trying.
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