RLY240

Will depend on your setup really but 30 hot is a reasonable base and you should expect a 7 or 8 psi gain from cold.

At the risk of confusing or contradicting myself, I believe the wiring is in line with below. I have 2 x 240z one later than the other and the later was already butchered with relays but the earlier car I modded as below. The factory lights are wired with permanent power (via seperate LHS and RHS fuses) to the lights and then ground switched with full current at the stalk. Diagram attached, forgive the hand drawn nature. So to switch to relays you basically remove the permanent power (R and RY) at the light connector and make this the ground point for the lights. Then you can use the R power from the loom and the stalk switch earths to energise the relays with fresh fused power and earth from a better source (ie batt or alternator). You can then intercept the RB and RW lines from the stalk and use these to send the switched relay power to the lights. it’s messy but it works. Your issue will be working out what the previous owner did to intercept the signal wires. Best of luck. Roger.

I think this is the rough template I worked on for mine. It’s still using the existing stalk to switch low current and using this to energise the relays. It’s still switching positive not negative but means you don’t need to modify the stalk. Rather than cut into the loom near the lights I tapped into the wires at the major plugs under the dash where the front loom joins the dash loom. https://goo.gl/images/6PzjTU I’m sure there are other threads here with this info too, I seem to have lost the diagram and notes I used for mine sorry. Roger

Hi Jeff, has the headlight loom been modified to use relays? The stock system (at least on the 240) switches the positive through the stalk so all the current goes through the main switch. When installing relays to reduce the current at the switch it’s common to swap over to a switched earth as this is more common on relays. It’s possible the loom has been modified which won’t be helping.

If it's a 240z tach then the power feed for the coil is actually looped trough an induction pickup externally on the tacho. The power feed still comes from an ignition switched source so if you're desperate to start it then you can power the coil from any ignition switched source.

Spoilers

I bought a Kaaz instead.

Do I spy Jon and Gina in the crowd after the race?

There's a number of ways to make this work, the belt kit from Rare Spares includes an enormous bracket that is supposed to mount the retractor almost 200mm in mid air using the original bottom mount point. I chose to instead make a new mount on the wheel arch with a captured nut and spreader plate under the guard. Once painted with stoneguard you can't see it with the wheel on but it does need some rust protection to stop the bolt eventually rusting into the nut. I looked at a couple of options before going this way as it means the full seat travel is available (I'm 6'3) and the function meant more to me than keeping the original look. Roger

Looking fantastic Jeff, can’t wait to see it on the road.

Seven degrees doesn’t sound like much timing so I would start by edging this up and see if that helps. Under light load the vacuum advance brings the timing up but under full load there is less vacuum. Depending on the distributor weights the mech advance might not come on until after 2500rpm. Roger

Targa High Country was a little while ago now so sorry for the late update - another great event at Mt Buller / Mansfield and a great result for us with another 3rd in Classic GT (outright) and I think 22nd outright against the modern cars. There were a couple of other Zed's in the event, Goodwin also in Classic GT in the 300zx and another 240 in the tour I think. Check the links for a video of the car through the event and hop onto our website for the event report and some more pics. https://www.rally240.racing/targa/2018/11/7/2018-targa-high-country

Plus the front diff mount is offset, it should only go one way (there is a clearance for the tailshaft yoke) but if it's 180 out then the diff is also out of alignment.

I wouldn't be too stressed, if you can make one work that should be fine. I'm pretty sure one of mine has been butchered to fit and it's still going strong.

This isn't exhaustive by any means just my observations. The early "forward mount" R180 and R200 both have pretty flat moustache bars and the rearward mount R180s have more of a bend in them. The forward mount also had a flat rear crossmember while the others had one with a pronounced bend for clearance. Early forward mount setup. Early and later crossmembers Moustache bars, ignore the incorrect labels, top is early R180 forward mount, middle is standard 240/260 R180 and the bottom is R200 (I think!)

The Adelaide Rally is done for another year, expanded to 4 days this year with some longer stages and a couple of events out at The Bend and a much improved event over 2017. I think we were the only Zed in the event but we managed to take 3rd in the Classic Competition and took a couple of stage wins which is always nice and even finished inside the top 10 outright against the modern cars. Here’s an onboard from the Chain of Ponds stage which is one of the two stages we won.

I run a 3.9 diff for Bathurst as I don’t pull the same revs as so,e of the other guys with mine maxing out at 6,500. Pay for it going up the hill though. https://youtu.be/27axDgWwXwU

We’re off to Targa High Country first so just finishing the prep for that and then we head straight to Bathurst after that. Just needs a diff change and a spanner check in between. Last year we had an engine component failure on the last day of Targa which required some surgery in the Bathurst car park before scrutineeing, hoping not to repeat that this year. Roger

nah it's on my list of things to play with one day.

I've got a triple SU manifold in a box somewhere - no idea of its origin though. Roger

My bitsa parts car had a similar shaft that also looks like a hybrid.

Why not? It worked for Peter Brock.

Dibs on the 903 blue please. Happy to post to Adelaide? Are you allowed to post aerosols?

Thanks, I made the firewall insulation from some 2mm vinyl / rubber glued to carpet underlay insulation. I cut out the two materials separately and then sprayed contact adhesive to join them, once joined I used various punches and chisels to cut the smaller holes and fine details. For a pattern I used a combination of the remains of the old insulation and the patterns created and posted by (I think) George on his awesome build. Came out really well and only took a couple of hours. Pictures in the second post show the parts coming together. Might not be a faithful recreation of the factory items on a concourse build but close enough for me. Roger

Thanks Dave, as much as it would be great to bring one each to Bathurst in November this one is staying strictly on the road. Roger