Riceburner

EFI Hardware https://www.efihardware.com/products/1045/cable-pull-with-opposite-link

Nice Jeff. The trim retainer around the roof is a good idea

Re LSD’s. I’ve no actual experience with the KAAZ type but I did read about them being noisey. I’ve got the OS Giken, from the driving I’ve done it’s really quiet and you don’t know it’s there. $80 a litre for their special oil is crazy though.

Started a new little project with my bro to install the two spare FCR41’s I have to his newly rebuilt 510. He sourced a Nissan SU manifold for only $50. I spent time yesterday sand blasting and cleaning up the ports with a dremel lol. My first try at porting, so hopefully it’s ok. It’s going on a stock L20B with a brand new V912 head running a 72 degree cam. Mikuni couplers will need to be ordered but I think they’ll bolt straight on to the manifold studs. We might also have a look at port matching the manifold now it’s been buzzed a little. Looking to run it with the gold Keihin ‘power blade’ velocity stacks. They’re 50mm long, 65mm at the opening and run a blade half way through the stack. It’s meant to improve air speed at low to half throttle. The hardest thing will be fuel supply as the FCRs run plastic T pieces that are held in by the adjacent carb, now the spacing has changed we need a new solution.

Ok, if it’s going to be a horsepower killer it’s not a good idea then! Lol

Does anyone have an idea as to how well the factory SU manifold flows? I’m toying with the idea of pulling the six FCR41’s and installing two of them onto an SU manifold after porting it, with a stock air box and the yoshi dual trumpets. Not sure what power losses I’ll have, if any?

Small donation made. Thanks for all you efforts and all the best going forward.

They look really nice, price is pretty reasonable too. Clearance may be the only issue around the strut tower when running sock filters. I used to run a sock filter minus the internal spring for intake 3, this would occasionally get sucked down into the trumpets. What’s the disadvantage with running a total length a few inches shorter for filter clearance? Or can they do filter backing plates, one that mounts to the back of the trumpet bell mouth, and the second that will allow you to sanwhich a custom uni filter on the end?

That looks the same as what mine were, from memory the LSD centre buttons they thread into are only about 8mm thick. @Mods, Might be a topic for drivelines.

Thanks for responses guys. Yeah it’s both calipers doing it. New flex lines were part of the rebuild. He did paint all of the calipers during their rebuild, I wonder if that’s binding up somewhere. Could be time to try a spare set of Calipers.

Confirmed push rod length and connection looks all ok.

Attached pics and info on how he ran lines. Ok so maybe the residual pressure should go back in once the issue is fixed? He is double checking the push rod length, he did have to adjust that at install. EDIT: One thing he wasn’t certain of was how tight the front caliper nut with the split should be.

Hi Dave, I’ll have to check if there’s been any other mods other that the twin reservoir master. Initially it was holding pressure all the time, rock hard peddle after a few applications, brakes red hot. He opened up the master and removed this (see pic). Following that is seemed ok, now it’s started doing it again. A short drive to the local servo with half a dozen brake applications, the fronts could not be turned by hand and were red hot. After 30mins you could doing them half a turn. Front calipers have been tested and they moved freely.

Hey guys, My brother has recently rebuild his 1600, All stock brakes. New JB1181 master, 3/4'' non boosted, residual pressure removed from front nearest to fire wall, front calipers fully rebuilt with all new parts, new rear wheel cylinders, new pads, shoes and hoses. He still has issues with the front calipers holding pressure after repeat stops in short amount of time. Is there something we are missing?

What about a little run before lunch with everyone from the bbq?