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nat0_240_chevZ last won the day on October 3 2015

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About nat0_240_chevZ

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  1. Thanks Royal, yes correct, and in your case a suitable replacement. Pm sent..
  2. Ebay Seller: burkartautomotive , from USA, the one who has the $170?ish postage not the $2k. Ordered on Monday/Tuesday and already in Aus fri. Got an ebay msg advising its cleared customs, already. Hoping it is the real deal urethane item. Didnt see a pic or link in your above post. (mobile) I was referring to this rear lip, but again either a good original or a darn good copy. Nat0
  3. Gav im noticing alot of dead links straight from Google. Also links/tabs ive had ooen for days and weeks, when refreshed come up broken. Not sure if coincidence or not with above, ill let you know if i keep seeing this happen. Quite often I'll have many tabs Open in Google Chrome on my phone and when I return to them, just of late I've noticed when refreshed or reopened it appears to be a broken. Nat0
  4. Just ordered the xenon urethane? Item with cnr light cutouts, due to arrive this week so definately air freight. All up around the 600 mark. If only i found something earlier locally, but need something im happy with to finish one of the builds. Although still after a Good rear lip. but one that has the embossed rear section. After good quality ones not just copies of copies. Any leads? Nat0
  5. Got some floor rails handy, or your after engine bay rails also?
  6. Hi guys, those holes you speak of are not drain holes, as such but are tool/jig holes for assy on the factory line. pressed panels used pins to drop onto, floor ontop and then the welders go to town with their spotwelders. Back from travels, haven't checked the forum in a long time, spotted the updates of late and thought id chime in. Yes the holes tend to let more crap in than out, but hey. Good to see the old rails being on-sold. Nat0
  7. Auto on an l28 but... Eng # on build plate 054993 Comp. Date 10/71.
  8. I have the plates/id from hs30 1400. Was the goldy yellow/orange poo colour. It was a write off bought from z wreckers, had some Weird bits and jap chalk marks under the dash etc. Needless to say it was chopped up as it was put into a pole/tree heavilly. When i picked it up it had:- F54/p90 engine combo/head combo. Auto transmission Fibreglass headight buckets and blanked fender mirrors. Old skool jap looking sports wheel. Other than that not alot more i can remember but can advise for reference sake the aus compliance i still have along with body sections. Nat0
  9. Auto trans fluid 50/50 with thinners, wet rag wipe, Wax on.... Wax off....
  10. Only real early ones, so far confirmed. Ie Below RS30 - **1000 vin.
  11. I have some floor rail sets available now. But a change in jobs, extended travel may see a 12 month delay. Before any production. Nat0
  12. Materials are G450 hiten steel which is galvanised. Thickness is 1.5mm, originals 1.0-1.2mm I hope this helps.... ? Cheers nat0
  13. Nice. I believe i have a couplenof those badboys floating around, 1 at least in my toolbag..... Id pass on the decal but thats me. Never even thought! Nice work! Nat0
  14. Try pressure pumping walnut shell, hand cleaner through them. The non solvent stuff. Diaphragmatic pump or piston. Then to be flushed thoroughly with solvent, of course...... Try it out on small scale first to ensure desired results are achieved... Or otherwise sand from lake McKenzie, fraser island in a sand / water slurry. Lol just got back from holidays ? Nat0
  15. Try this. Forget the degree marker for a bit. Car runs, right? Rotate dizzy till revs pick right up, then drop back a bit till revs drop down to say a high idle, 1000rpm. Then check with light, no vac adv... What does it read on your degree scale? If a weird number, check scale plate and pulley havent been changed. And ensure dizzy is suited, yes later dizzy have the differently orientation bodys, which could also be cause for your confusion. Eliminate the whoopsy factor first. Has the dizzy been apart? If so who? When etc. Need to eliminate the possibility of a bumsteer first....
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