C.A.R.

I haven't watched it yet, so can someone tell me if it's accurate or not...?

What gearbox is in the Z now? A flange drive 71A or spline drive 71B? The L28 will bolt up to either, but the 71B is marginally stronger.

Well it's probably time for another update... After the clutch/flywheel assembly when in, I entered another Sandown track day in early November with my best mate Alex as pit-bitch. Rain threatened from Midday onwards on the day, but I remained optimistic. The organizers however had different ideas and showed their incompetence - I didn't get my first run until 12:30PM, then once my run finished the rain hit... HARD. No point continuing, so we packed up and went home. However the Z proved itself fit for duty, and it was now ready for... CHALLENGE BATHURST !* 2019 was the 50th anniversary for the 240Z, so CB2019 was a big deal. I'd committed on the entry early on, so I was not going to miss it. And I'm glad I didn't! Bucket list item ticked off! I could write an entire magazine article on the adventure, but for the purposes of this thread I'll stick to the Z. Bathurst is scary in a grunty Z, and it showed a few shortcomings of the Z and more so the meat-sack behind the wheel... Saturday I was inside the top 10 in regularity, but that didn't last As I got more familiar with the track, I went faster but the Z couldn't 'quite' keep up - after the long run down Conrod and into the chase (where I hit 222kph on the GPS into the kink), I experienced chronic fuel starvation heading down into Murray's - this got worse and worse as Sunday progressed. To the extent that I got 2 laps into the last session on Sunday, before calling it quits. I was not interested in detonating the engine. (I have a couple of theory's as to why, and I'm currently working on a solution.) Regardless I had a great time and full credit must go to Dave and his crew for their amazing organization. And that's where I leave it for the moment. This Beerflu has nobbled any use of the Z and it's currently in my shed up on axle stands waiting to be unleashed again - hopefully later this year... *Full thread here: And a big thanks to Ned (OdinZ) who came along as my co-pilot for the trip. Bruce (Lightmaster) for his great photos of the event. Oh, and Gordo won the CB19 Regularity for the 2nd year in a row - they tinny bastard.

Front bars fit fine. Rear ones don't fit across the back of the valance.

https://www.northvicengines.com.au/ I suggest you strip the engine first, measure everything up then order what you require.

Casting numbers mean nothing when identifying 71b gearboxes. I wish people would stop referring to them... The only way to quickly check is to put it in 1st gear, and count the output rotations - 3.3 rotations means it's a crappy wide-ratio box. 2.9 is close-ratio. The box the OP posted could be anything, however it will work for it's intended purpose.

RH door is a new shell. LH Door got a new skin.

You can buy them new from Aussie Muscle Parts.

Throw the bonnet in the scrap bin and buy a new one: https://allmusclecarparts.com.au/datsun/240-260z/datsun-240z-280z-hood-cut.html

I few more photos of the roof skin fabrication:

Do you know in what direction it went?

Donation sent Gav

RIP Rudi - was nice knowing you, man...

I am in awe...

That's a bump stop Robbie.. Regardless there isn't enough bump travel there. To fix that isn't a small job - gimme a call and I'll discus options with you.

You need at LEAST 100mm of bump travel at ride height Robbie.

Contact Ashley @ Moorabbin Auto Spares. He had a set last time I was there.

Bead Roller. I suggest you only replace the sections that ACTUALLY need rust repairs - making a whole late Z floor pan is a HUGE job...

I'm out too - dealing with some flooding...

All the info you need is right here:

Come to papa!

You cant move the whole rail down, as it wont line up to the skirt. They have to fit into the radiator support panel, so if you have to modify them by inducing a taper, then do so.

Supercheap Lillydale.

I just have to pay the renewal on Gav's Z...

Sorted.