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C.A.R.

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Everything posted by C.A.R.

  1. C.A.R.
    Yep!
  2. C.A.R.
    Just a standard L-series rear main seal. But make sure he buys a genuine Nissan item - they aren't expensive!
  3. C.A.R.
    Awesome! I'll be bringing my race box, so I'll pretty much have anything else that people may require.
  4. C.A.R.
    I also have a spare lid and extinguisher, Owen - the extinguisher is the special yellow motorsport type
  5. C.A.R.
    Factor in another $100+ for shipping, it makes getting a dash re-skinned by the Dashboard Doctor a better option.
  6. C.A.R.
    Some 3M Clear Paint Protection Film around the arches to protect the paint, and you'll be good to go mate!
  7. C.A.R.
    http://tamperedmotorsport.com.au/
  8. C.A.R.
    I've entered! If anyone else wants to have a run in their Zed, Gordo and I are more than happy to give advice
  9. C.A.R.

    Wanted: P90 Head

    C.A.R. posted a topic in Wanted

    Wanted: P90 Head in good, serviceable conditions with minimal to no corrosion. Can organise pickup. Inbox me or Zero Four Zero Zero Five Four Five Seven Two. (Photo for attention)
  10. C.A.R.
    I missed the year of your 260Z - sorry for aiding confusion. '74 260Z (RS30's) share the same basic body-shell as the late 240Z (HS30's), so yes the rare spares floor pans will fit.
  11. C.A.R.
    .
  12. C.A.R.
    Unless one is after the historical significance of a factory head - ablit as a replica piece - it's a lot of work for little gain...
  13. C.A.R.
    They bolt straight in. There's lots of info on http://www.ozdat.com.au/forum/ about how to do the conversion:
  14. C.A.R.
    Going by his old posts, it's a 2 seater. Try contacting Warren @ AllZParts in Sydney - last time I spoke to him he had a couple of rear 1/4 panels available. You should need to replace the rear of the body shell, unless it REALLY rusty. You'd be better off unpicking the damaged panels and panel beating them straight...
  15. C.A.R.
    Evan, if you are the guy who messaged me on Facebook a few weeks ago about repairing it, I replied to your message. Regardless, give me a call on: Zero Four Zero Zero Zero Five Four Five Seven Two I'll be able to fix repair it
  16. C.A.R.
    No drain holes that far back in a 2+2 - otherwise I would have drilled one!
  17. C.A.R.

    71B gearbox issue

    C.A.R. replied to lampy's topic in Gearbox

    Ahhh I remember that extension housing! I'd be finding someone who can Tig weld Alum...
  18. C.A.R.
    Nathan is on a round Australia trip with his family - don't expect an answer any time in the near future... And don't be an idiot - a set of rusty chassis rails isn't going to scrap a Z! They are not hard to fix:
  19. C.A.R.

    71B gearbox issue

    C.A.R. replied to lampy's topic in Gearbox

    I've not seen that before! Rear Counter-shaft nut appears to have come loose, and that almost looks like the rear CS bearing poking through It would have just walked 5th CS gear off the back of the shaft, the nut has dropped down into the bottom of the housing. So my guess would be to replace the extension housing, bearing and nut. Make sure the rear CS nut has Loctite applied to it during reassembly... Take pictures of the disassembly!
  20. C.A.R.
    The the upholsterer he's a useless twat, and to go find it.
  21. C.A.R.

    Wtb warm l28

    C.A.R. replied to Chris'Z's topic in Wanted

    Just strap it to a pallet, and wish it away with e-go...
  22. C.A.R.

    Wtb warm l28

    C.A.R. replied to Chris'Z's topic in Wanted

    There is always one available - you just have to call Les.
  23. C.A.R.

    Wtb warm l28

    C.A.R. replied to Chris'Z's topic in Wanted

    Months ago.
  24. C.A.R.
    Bonnet catch to top of tappet cover.
  25. C.A.R.
    Sounds like you've changed DOT specification fluid, to have it fail like that G-MAN....
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