C.A.R.

Some 3M Clear Paint Protection Film around the arches to protect the paint, and you'll be good to go mate!

http://tamperedmotorsport.com.au/

I've entered! If anyone else wants to have a run in their Zed, Gordo and I are more than happy to give advice

Wanted: P90 Head in good, serviceable conditions with minimal to no corrosion. Can organise pickup. Inbox me or Zero Four Zero Zero Five Four Five Seven Two. (Photo for attention)

I missed the year of your 260Z - sorry for aiding confusion. '74 260Z (RS30's) share the same basic body-shell as the late 240Z (HS30's), so yes the rare spares floor pans will fit.

.

Unless one is after the historical significance of a factory head - ablit as a replica piece - it's a lot of work for little gain...

They bolt straight in. There's lots of info on http://www.ozdat.com.au/forum/ about how to do the conversion:

Going by his old posts, it's a 2 seater. Try contacting Warren @ AllZParts in Sydney - last time I spoke to him he had a couple of rear 1/4 panels available. You should need to replace the rear of the body shell, unless it REALLY rusty. You'd be better off unpicking the damaged panels and panel beating them straight...

Evan, if you are the guy who messaged me on Facebook a few weeks ago about repairing it, I replied to your message. Regardless, give me a call on: Zero Four Zero Zero Zero Five Four Five Seven Two I'll be able to fix repair it

No drain holes that far back in a 2+2 - otherwise I would have drilled one!

Ahhh I remember that extension housing! I'd be finding someone who can Tig weld Alum...

Nathan is on a round Australia trip with his family - don't expect an answer any time in the near future... And don't be an idiot - a set of rusty chassis rails isn't going to scrap a Z! They are not hard to fix:

I've not seen that before! Rear Counter-shaft nut appears to have come loose, and that almost looks like the rear CS bearing poking through It would have just walked 5th CS gear off the back of the shaft, the nut has dropped down into the bottom of the housing. So my guess would be to replace the extension housing, bearing and nut. Make sure the rear CS nut has Loctite applied to it during reassembly... Take pictures of the disassembly!

The the upholsterer he's a useless twat, and to go find it.

Just strap it to a pallet, and wish it away with e-go...

There is always one available - you just have to call Les.

Months ago.

Bonnet catch to top of tappet cover.

Sounds like you've changed DOT specification fluid, to have it fail like that G-MAN....

SOLD!

I'll be there around 9am this morning for the show and shine. Hopefully there will be plenty of 120Y owners there to make fun of.

Selling on behalf of a client. Genuine reason for sale. 12/1975 260Z 2+2 VIN: GRS30-010074 Original registration and has registration until July this year. Matching numbers. Factory manual transmission. Very original 2+2 - current owner for the last 30+ years. All factory books and a pile of receipts for previous work from DatRally / Powerplay. Original toolkit and jack. Original Black interior. All electrics work (except the clock!) Non-standard: Late HS6(?) British SU's fitted (in place of the pollution Hitachi's) 280ZX gearbox fitted. Modern stereo head unit fitted. Respray in original colour 10-15 years ago. Issues: Rust in the doglegs, lower rear quarters, top of LH front guard, middle of RH door, slam panel. Needs new tyres. Dash is cracked. Battery is over 10 years old... It's been in undercover storage for the last 12 months and started periodically. We've flushed the brake and clutch system with new Dot3 fluid. Fuel system and carbs have been flushed. Runs and drives well. SOLD! No RWC. Vehicle is 'as is, where is'. Inspection is recommended.

I think you need your eyes checked Ross - that's not a GTO body-kitted Z. It's just an ugly body-kitted 2+2.

*Fixed. No worries Farking, but you better keep better track of your drawings, Farking.