C.A.R.

It's been mentioned before, but... For the rear, remove the 3 nuts at the top of the strut top, undo the half shaft from the companion flange, sway bar and the brake line. You'll then be able to drop the strut down and lean the strut out. For the front, it's easier just to remove the whole strut from the car to do the work.

SOLD. '71 240Z Project 1 Owner from new. HS30-00875 Rust free - still wearing original paint. Everything else appears to be there (suspension, brakes, interior, wireing loom etc etc. Missing Engine and Gearbox (a member of the NDSOC bought the original engine many years ago - I think I remember his name). Other things to note: There are modifications to the gearbox tunnel to clear exhausts. New transmission mounts have been welded into place. Tops of rear quarters have been beaten in to fit a GTO Bodykit Top of Radiator support has been cut out. Rear half of drip rails have been removed. Areas above the rear bumper mounts have been panel beated in. The story with this Z is: My old mate Ian (Rollo) bought this new in '71 from the Local Warragul Nissan Dealer at the time. Sadly Rollo passed away in December 2018 - hence the Z going up for sale. Rollo was building it into a Ferrari GTO Repilca with a Surpercharged Lexus V8, hence the interesting body modifications... This is a good opportunity for someone to build a non-standard Z to their own tastes, or if you are keen - restore it to original. Price: SOLD Inspection by appointment only. Vehicle is located in Warragul, Victoria. Rotisserie is not included but can be bought separately. The Lexus V8 with the Z32 gearbox mated to it, with the Opcon Supercharger & intercoolers are available separately. And the GTO body Kit is available separately as well.

Ferodo 'DS Performance'. I get mine from Comp Friction: http://www.compfriction.com.au/contactus.php

I saw you fiddling with your brakes on Friday Mike, but I didn't realize it was you(!), so I went and had a chin-wag with Geisty... The '74 looks very clean!

Yes Jake you can. The L24 crankcase is the same as the L28, so with the appropriate milling on the block a 90mm stroke crank could be made to fit.

While I was working on my block, Les was busy doing what he does best - Porting! I'm using my original E31 casting cylinder head, which has been repaired along with getting the chambers welded up. I like to see 100hp/litre so Les took a deep breath and had it at. Pictures speak a thousand words: Next the head goes to http://www.woodyshydroblast.com/ to be made to look new again, afterwhich it's off to http://www.headstuddevelopment.com/home.aspx to have the seats re-cut. Finally Les will flow bench it to see what it flows..................................

Fark! 18 months! Time for an update! Nothing has actually happened in the last 18 months, other than I got distracted by my own business getting very busy and poor Les having some health issues - thankfully he is now on the mend. Over the new year break I linished the crankcase of my block & painted it in Glyptol to help seal the crankcase and improve oil drain-back. Next the each piston gets measured so the block can be torque-plate honed to each piston size.

Following this was the replacement of both floors. The last 45 years had taken their toll on the floors and the 'patch jobs' done sometime in the 90's wasn't holding up either - new floors & rails it was! This was under the RH seat mount! Installation of the floors is timing consuming as the RS pans are not perfect, but I managed to get them fitted to an acceptable standard. Biggest problem with the floor rails that are supplied by Rare Spares with their replacement floor is that they are too shallow and not wide enough to match up with the rail as it comes down from the radius rod mount. My solution is to make my own: One problem that did rear it's ugly head was that the RH rail section where it meets radius rod mount was badly rusted. I removed it, media blasted it but found it to be too far gone After some head scratching my only recourse was to remake it: Thankfully the LH rail was salvageable after media blasting & getting coated with KBS Rust Seal. Floors are now completed and I'm quite pleased with the result. Now they just need a bit of straightening where the weld join meets the tunnel.

I've been a bit slack in updating this build (mostly due to another project that snowballed...), but repairs to DB ARE progressing. Next up was the bottom of the RH A-post top of the RH sill.

Interesting... Top Performance Koni in Vermont advised Les Collins (who then told me) that the Yellow Sports are no longer available for the 300ZX which we use in our early Zeds, and have been replaced with a 'Sport Gas' cartridge instead. Not inferior - just different. The description is lacking in that article about weather the cartridge is designed for standard height Z or a lowered Z - this make a massive difference depending on what you are trying to achieve... I'd want some more information before making a purchase.

Have fun getting the old Holden suspension geometry right, Phyllis - apparently it's not easy to make it work... Real Italian, you say?

I just got your message mate - pretty cool! I'm not sure what can be used for filter elements though...?

https://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/1281-robco-engineering/?tab=comments#comment-10572

So you want aftermarket rear LCA's, but you DON'T want aftermarket rear LCA's? Correct? So standard rear LCA's then? So in actual fact Craig, you want nothing? Which makes this thread pointless, and I could be drinking another Beer instead of typing this reply!

I could build an Australian customer a ripper of a Z for 150k...

Drive it. Then drain ALL the fuel out of it. Jack it up and place it on blocks under the chassis to take the load off the suspension.

^This. Personally, I'd just make a new Rad. support panel. It's not rocket science to fix them. I do it reasonably often:

You've already advertised it TWICE on this forum - and THIRD ad isn't going to sell it any quicker!

Wow, rare car... More information required - what is the issue with the current distributor?

I can't comment on Bilsteins (I've only ever used Koni), but you haven't stated what you are trying to achieve...? Ride height? Purpose? (street or track or both?) If you are serious about using Bilsteins, I suggest you contact Heasmans Suspension in NSW - they are a Bilstein agent: http://heasmans.com.au/ Tell them your specifics and what you want to achieve with your Z, then let them guide you to the correct insert for your application. Footnote: Never believe anything a American says.

No Problem - I am a professional.

And big nose in his:

Can be removed together.

They are plated (yellow / gold), then over painted in body colour (for some reason).

It's in Melbourne.