C.A.R.

With the stub of an old pipe branch cut off, I wrapped the band around the pipe and marked my cut line so I could square the end of the pipe off (the section of pipe being hacked off with Oxy/Act during the refit). Edo spec potato pic: Normally pipe is cut with Oxy/Act as it's the quickest way to cut heavy wall pipe. But for anyone with Oxy/Act bottles you'll know how stupidly expensive the gas's are... so I elected to use a 9 inch with 1.6mm cut-off wheels - cheaper and a cleaner cut. Annoyingly I didn't get my marking square enough and ended up with 3mm off square. However I decided not to used this end as I'd have to fill the hole where the branch came out from...

Now obviously I wasn't going to use the whole length of pipe. I worked out I could get 3, 750mm sections out of the pipe - enough to make 3 units (if I wanted to make more). My First step was t make some basic pipe rollers to roll the pipe as I was cutting it. I hunted through my pile of crap and found 4 nylon coated stationary casters. I screwed them to a couple of pieces of timber and voila: Next up I needed a marking band. This is used to wrap around the pipe to (hopefully) mark a straight, square line around the pipe so it can be cut square. I cut a couple of 100mm wide strips of 1mm mild steel sheet off in the Guillotine, jogged one end, then set it up on an arm of the chassis bench with a couple of magnetic squares. After getting them parallel I spot welded them together. With the band complete it was time to mark the pipe...

As I'm a frog (cold blooded) I DESPISE working in the cold. I had some vague plans to replace the little bot belly with something more substantial, but when a mate of mine offered me a section of pipe removed from a plant undergoing refurbishment for $100, my plan got turned up to 11.. The pipe in question is a 730mm Dia. 10mm thick fabricated mild steel pipe measuring 2.3 meters long, with an Ansi flange welded on one end and support legs welded to the underside. To say it's a heavy bastard would be an understatement...

So when I leased my current workshop, the owners - who where occupying the property it prior to me - had a little pot belly stove at the back that they left. It was made out the ubiquitous truck brake drums joined together by a steel band in the middle. It was fairly old, was very thin at the bottom, chewed through wood like a beaver on cocaine and produced about as much heat as a hairdryer on medium setting. Trying to heat the large shed was impossible, however on occasion we managed to get it going hard enough:

You realize this a forum for early Z cars, don't you? I suggest you head over to http://nissansilvia.com/forums/ or https://www.sau.com.au/forums/ - you'll get answers there that are more in line with what you are asking...

https://www.mdspares.com.au

Speed is in MPH. 3.9 (Rev limit set too high - should be 7000rpm) 4.11 4.375 (4.4)

What is your tie size Justin? I'll input it all into the gear ratio program & see what it spits out.

Prescription or non-prescription medication? You must be really entertaining at parties...

^ Issue Found ^

His latest video is him having a winge about all the negative YouTube commentators! (i.e. me)

Have you considered a flashing Amber light fitted to the bonnet to let them know your coming through, Hung?

Precisely this ^ Les and I looked very closely at building Z's in this way, but we determined that an someone willing to spend $100K+ on an early Z is a rare individual, and the market simply isn't there in real world terms. USD$91k (AUD$129K) isn't a whole lot of $$$ for something like that either... If MZR find the market, then good luck to them

So in other words - not necessary!

Never heard of it. Probably snake oil. Just bolt the OSG LSD centre in G-man and be done with it.

Holy thread revival Batman! And who the heck are you?!

The bracket have nutserts/rivnuts fitted and the fan mounts slide over them, with the bolts securing the fan in place.

Do a search on this forum - what you need for the conversion has been covered before. You need a 260Z 71B gearbox, but a 280ZX will also work. You may find the diff ratio will need changing too. You might be able to collect the bits required from various sources, but if you want a 'one stop shop' for the complete conversion kit, perhaps get in touch with Les Collins: http://lescollinsracing.com/contact

You'll need to get the Tacho rebuilt to suit the electronic ignition - they don't like the electronic pulses. It'll also get to 5000rpm and start bouncing around like a toddler on red cordial.

Today I fitted a Thermo fan. #NotMyDatsun

I think you guys may be doing it wrong...

Interesting... I have a 2+2 tank in my early 240Z atm and none of the modifications you mentioned needed doing to get it in.