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Roady last won the day on December 24 2020

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  1. SW Motorsports sells them - yes I would say all of them are made oversize as everyone’s steering rack will be slightly different diameters depending on wear, so they make it too small so you can make it specifically for your rack.
  2. Ok so far I’ve removed the brass bushes from the left side of 2 steering racks. My advice thus far is try and see what type of brass bushes you have. One of these I presume had been replaced before and was one solid brass piece, used a hacksaw blade with tape on the end in the rack to prevent it cutting the metal frame, then just tapped it out by hand. The other, and I think original actually has a split in it - I got this one out by hacksawing (as above) near the split, then used a punch to peel the bushing up at the split then just pulled it out. (Photo below) Disregard the ot
  3. Spoken to Stew Wilkins - suggests cutting them out (carefully). Yes from what I understand all the new brass ones are oversized and you then need to bore/hone them to fit your rack.
  4. Hi everyone, has anyone replaced the brass bushings at each end (internally) from their steering rack? If so, how did you get old ones out? Cheers Jason
  5. Anyone interested in my jig to mate an S15 (6 speed) with your 240z. There is a fair bit of info on this site about this kind of job. PM me if interested - overall weight would be approx. 13kg Length - 600mm Location - Newcastle $30
  6. @gav240z @260DET Hi Gav, I agree re: Postmate. My issue potentially would be trying to set up a system to bring in those kinds of components where by a private seller (not EBay) basically doesn’t want to ship. So it would possibly finding a service like you’ve discussed re:Japan like Jesse who could buy stuff then pack and ship things. I would find it unlikely that a private seller who can’t be bothered/interested to ship items (even locally) would refund and money just because we encountered shipping issues after purchase. Was there a particular freighter comp
  7. Hi Everyone, I’ve just finished reading the informative section regarding importing from Japan and also using Postmate from the US. Just wondering if anyone has tried or had any luck importing things such as gearboxes, differentials, engines and alike from the US and whether they used Postmate. I noted with Postmate they obviously want things packed for air travel which would mean fluids removed etc. I worry if purchasing something from over there, they may not prepare it to Postmate standards then could turn into a nightmare trying to return anything to the sender a
  8. Stew Wilkins (SW Motorsport) has some good ones to offer also.
  9. Just wondering if anyone rebuilds these? At the moment I have 3: 1 in the car, spring mechanism from START - ON not so good 2nd is a spare, as above but worse 3rd - bought on eBay from Thailand, spring mechanism etc is good but the unit itself (start function) failed within 6 months resulting in a crude jump start method (screw driver on starter motor) to get home. Unfortunately the spring unit and ignition module itself are all combined so hoping someone can point me in the direction of repair or new module unit that actually works - don’t actually need a new barre
  10. For the record (anyone one else doing this) - this could be around a 20-30min job. It all depends on where you, previous owner has the steering linkage positioned and if you have a steering column which has some ability to lengthen. In my case the linkage was at its maximum length and therefore the steering column had no adjustability, meaning I needed to create room. Don’t waste time trying to move the steering rack - I recommend you undo the 8 bolts of the steering column (4 fire wall and 4 under the dash) and pull the steering column slightly (1 inch) into the car, t
  11. Tried installing a new coupler today (got the old one out with some wriggling) but after battling with the bolts for an hour I’ve given up for the day. Will undo the 4 steering rack bolts tomorrow to make is easier unless anyone else has any suggestions?? Cheers
  12. Thanks for all the advice, Linton you were right, but in fact it was the aftermarket boss kit that was off centre.... funnily enough I replaced 10 years ago and it’s never been picked up until these tyres scrubbed. Unless when a mechanic swapped the rack over it wasn’t centred when he installed it - either way all sorted thanks for your help.
  13. There are 3 holes, 1 input, 2 output. I use one output to Weber’s the other attached to a pressure gauge. You could possibly use the second as a return line. Not sure if the smaller diameter of the return line would create enough of a pressure differential to feed the carbies. Alternatively, have the return line from the end of the Weber’s if you so choose??
  14. Front and Rear for sale - see photos for details. Rear had been in the car for approx. 5,000km Front only installed for approx. 2,500km Both have been removed for about a year. Seem to resist and rebound just fine. Removed as I upgraded to Koni Yellow adjustables. Rear securing nuts are in ok condition I’d recommend new ones. Thread is fine, however ONE got a bit damaged during removal. It still fits and would serve purpose but personally I’d use a new one. $50 for all 4 PM if interested. Unsure about postage with shock absorbers
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