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Roady last won the day on March 16 2017

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  1. Early 1999-2000 sti had 4.44 ratio which were the mechanical/plated R180 LSD
  2. Roady


    Ok good to know, thanks
  3. Roady


    Hi all, I’m just curious (particularly the people who are racing their cars), what fuel you are using. People with the higher compression engines, are you using an additive (nulon pro strength, supposedly had good reviews) or just using 98 etc. Reason I ask is I stumbled down the internet rabbit hole of people using xylene, toluene, acetone etc to boost their octane. So I was actually curious if anyone here is using any of these things in their high compression race cars on top of 98 octane? Or is avgas still the go in the racing world? Cheers
  4. Roady


    All good thanks, it’s one of a couple of spares so I won’t bother getting to upset and also now know not to waste any time trying to fix it. Thanks for the tips!
  5. Roady


    After you got the T-shirt did you bother trying to repair the other one Gav? Cheers Jason
  6. Roady


    Hi everyone, I’ve been testing some of the spare gauges that I have to discover the Ammeter gauge did not work. After pulling it apart it appears that someone put an excessive current through it and has melted the wire connecting the battery and the alternator. Just wondering if anyone has replaced this wire or know where to get an equivalent replacement grade/gauge of wire. Cheers
  7. I thought the KDFL-08 (which lowered the front 30mm) actually had a free length 305mm but progressive 100-170lbs hence even though they are a longer free length the car sits lower than standard springs
  8. UPDATE: Right so I finally got around to doing this. At the same time did a full service, gasket change, checked everything over. Result: Originally I had a 65F9 idle jet in the car. Since drilling a 0.8mm hole I’ve managed to reduce the size down to a 60F8. This is about 3 sizes smaller, which on the surface may not seem worth it, but I can assure you that it was. The reason my idle jet is still reasonably rich is because of how I have the main circuit set up. Ive tried going leaner to 55F8 and it opens a hole if you “aggressively” apply power. To some degree this can be filled with a change in accelerator pump jet, but in all my experimenting (including going to quite large accelerator pump jets) and I’ve actually swapped the accelerator pump spring over to a medium set up, I’ve found this set up works well for my driving. The main idea behind this project was to make it more drivable when cruising and not have the throttle plate sitting before a progression hole and making it lean, causing the engine to stumble but be ok with the throttle plate either further open or closed. This has cured the problem completely and I would do it again!!! Idle is still normal and can be adjusted as low as about 700rpm but it’s more comfortable (with the 72 degree cam) at around 1000rpm. THE PROCEDURE: To do this, I used a piece of laminated plastic, to stick pinholes through into the current progression holes. Then pulled this piece of plastic out and laid it onto some 1mm x 1mm graph paper. This took me 4 attempts at marking it correctly on the graph paper before I was happy. I then glued the graph paper to a thin piece of metal and used a dremel tool with drill press to accurately drill these holes. Once the 4th (new hole) was drilled in the metal, I installed the tiny piece of metal into the progression hole case, used needles through the old holes to line everything up then used a pin punch to mark the new hole to be drilled. Then opened the throttle plate, and used some wire to hold it open (you could probably wedge a rag in but you need it out of the way to drill. Then again used the dremel and 0.8mm drill bit (and a lot of patience to make sure it’s lined up perfectly) and finally drilled the hole. The piece of metal will work both sides of the carburettor you just need to flip it over when doing the other barrel of the carburettor. Any questions or additions please feel free to comment and I can try and answer any questions as best I can. As a side note, if you’re throttle plates aren’t closing all the way I also discovered that my accelerator pump rod had a small nick in it which was catching on the retainer preventing it from allowing the cam (tied into the throttle shaft) to return, therefore keeping the throttle plate slightly open.
  9. As Peter said, 45mm for shank and sleeve is approx. 60mm internal thread length.
  10. Ok great thanks for the other photo Peter I appreciate it. I think the rose joint thread length to be 45mm from a data sheet I found online, which would match the info from your photo and what you’ve suggested regarding the adjusting sleeve. Thanks again for the effort mate. Cheers Jas
  11. Hi Peter, Thanks I had a quick look at your photo, I was wondering if you know how long the threaded sections are, i.e. how long the threaded section on the rose joint is and how long the threaded section is on the adjusting nut/sleeve. Cheers Jason
  12. Hi All, Does anyone have a set of the Techno Toy Tuning Rear Lower Control Arms lying around not installed on the car. Hoping to get some measurements of the threaded sections (the eye bolts, and the threaded adjusting tube). Let me know if you can help. Cheers
  13. Brand new ballast resistor. Bought it with plans of swapping out the old one, then didn’t need it anyway. PM if interested. $10 (+ postage) Jason
  14. Roady

    Worm Drive Gear

    Does anyone have a dismantled gearbox(es) and have a metal worm drive gear (the metal gear that sits at the back of the mainshaft to drive the plastic Speedo cog). I can include a photo if it helps. Looking for 2 of them if anyone has any. Cheers Jason
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