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Roady

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Roady last won the day on December 24 2020

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  1. Ok photos of the choke set up - sorry let me know if you want more clarification. The generic choke I bought from Repco looks a little different from what they have now (1st photo) but basically there is an outer sheath that clips into the first Weber (closest to the engine - 3rd photo) then you run the inner wire through all the others(4th photo) which simply connects with the bolt which has a hole in it. In the car you remove the pull handle of the Repco choke then connect the inner wire to the original choke handle. From memory you just needed to bend the wire through the hole in the ha
  2. I’ve got an electric pump as well which works but I found that with the choke I could just start driving rather than sitting idling to keep it comfortable. Now that’s also to do with how I’ve tuned it with the 72 degree cam. Once it’s been running for about 3-4 mins choke is completely off so it’s definitely not a necessary thing that’s for sure. Yes - I’ll upload photos sometime over the weekend
  3. If you wanted to hook up the chokes to triples, not that much effort required - I bought a generic choke cable from Repco and attached it to the original mounting for our cars (240z) so all still looks standard inside. Takes about 30-60mins and that’s for someone who moderately competent doing mechanical things. Haven't had flooding issues as people complain about in many years (8+) of having them.
  4. Roady

    L24 - 067190

    Thanks Gav, I’ve re-posted in the other forum (didn’t realise it existed sorry). Feel free to delete this one as you see fit. Cheers Jason
  5. I’m looking for: L24 - 067190 should anyone find it please let me know. Cheers
  6. Roady

    L24 - 067190

    Long shot - if anyone has this engine please let me know. Seeing if my original engine is still in existence. (feel free to fill in the blank) “you’d have more chance of finding ........” Cheers Jason
  7. I’m sure it had “flare” whatever it was
  8. Hi all thanks for the replies - I’ll probably end up selling the 240K wheel and the aftermarket one (there’s only so many steering wheels you need). Gav - no idea who thought yellow was a good idea (for a change it wasn’t me with the crazy idea though so that’s good)
  9. Hi all, Just would like some help identifying these steering wheels (year and model whether 240 or 260 etc). The first one looks like they have bent the indicator prongs to fit (I know it works with a 240z). The last wheel looks to have a boss kit on the back of it so I presume something aftermarket. Thanks for any help Cheers Jason
  10. A couple of years ago I did this swap (from the 40L - 240z tank to a 60L - 260z tank). No idea what year model it came out of but I was able to swap the original sender unit directly into the other tank. Took some fiddling as I bent the metal rod the the float is connected to, to make sure the float reached top of the tank when full and bottom when empty. Hope that makes sense.
  11. Hi all, Selling an R200 long nose (non-LSD) differential. 3.54 ratio Seems to be in good condition (I personally have never had it in the car) but turns over smoothly, I can’t make out any bad bearing noises and backlash seems ok. Has side and front flanges (side flanges have 29 splines)
  12. SW Motorsports sells them - yes I would say all of them are made oversize as everyone’s steering rack will be slightly different diameters depending on wear, so they make it too small so you can make it specifically for your rack.
  13. Ok so far I’ve removed the brass bushes from the left side of 2 steering racks. My advice thus far is try and see what type of brass bushes you have. One of these I presume had been replaced before and was one solid brass piece, used a hacksaw blade with tape on the end in the rack to prevent it cutting the metal frame, then just tapped it out by hand. The other, and I think original actually has a split in it - I got this one out by hacksawing (as above) near the split, then used a punch to peel the bushing up at the split then just pulled it out. (Photo below) Disregard the ot
  14. Spoken to Stew Wilkins - suggests cutting them out (carefully). Yes from what I understand all the new brass ones are oversized and you then need to bore/hone them to fit your rack.
  15. Hi everyone, has anyone replaced the brass bushings at each end (internally) from their steering rack? If so, how did you get old ones out? Cheers Jason
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