paulhempshall@yahoo.com.au

Perhaps this topic is still relevant. Just had my 280zx distributor reconditioned by Performance ignition https://performanceignition.com.au/ Cost $380 with a new cap. The main problem with the Dizzy was the vacuum and the mechanical advances (it is 41 years old). Performance ignition were great. Quick turnaround and the Dizzy now looks and operates brilliantly. A very noticeable performance improvement. Well worth the investment.

This post might save someone a heck of a lot of searching time. I finally saw aftermarket product posted on ebay at https://www.ebay.com.au/usr/panelhouse

I need two front indicator/side light lenses for my 1980 280zx. The existing have minor cracking and will not pass roadworthy. Is anyone aware of an aftermarket product or have any in A1 condition. Thanks.

Anyone got a blower control amplifier. Alternatively I'll purchase the entire blower motor, amp and amplifier if working for a reasonable ($99) cost.

PS. The harder rail is the driver side. Fuel and brake lines did impede my work. I looked into removing the lines but in the end removed as many brackets as I could and chocked the lines away from the rail (manged 20-30mm clearance).

Thanks for the post. Your finished work looks superb! Well worth the money. My rail looked worse to begin with. I decided to do it myself, budget and interest. I 1. jacked the car. 30 careful minutes. I managed 520mm clearance from the driveway floor. 2. cut the damaged rail from the car. 1 careful hour. 3 hammered it back into shape. 30 minutes. This is really thin gauge steel. 3. Bought the welding equipment, gas and helmet $500 (bloody amazing how little equipment costs) Internet(MIG welder) and Complete Welding Supplies Moorabbin for gas, wire and advice. 4. spent 3-4 hours welding it back into place (after 1-2 hours researching welding methods and a bit of practice).A bonus. found and cured an underlying foot well rust problem. 5. 1 hour grinding and polishing 6. 30 minutes under-body repainting. My fix looks great and I'll rust proof it this weekend. It is not as good as CAF rust buster's job though . I still have to get the Road worthy (I can't believe it; the heater blower has failed LOL) But I'm still luvin it! For anyone who has the same problem in Melbourne contact CAF rust Buster and get the job done (as they say) CORRECTLY for $2000 to $4 000 or do as I did. Spend $500 spend a couple of weekends and gain some basic skills, put some welding equipment in the garage for future body repairs no doubt! . Your choice. Thanks Lachlan.

My 1980 280zx is in need of some help and I need some advice. I am aiming to get the car on club plates this year and after a check with my mechanic he tells me the car good apart from it will need a structural integrity test because the frame (chassis) rail are somewhat (badly) squashed at the front. I can go to a bog standard panel repair company but I'd rather go to someone who knows this era car. Can you recommend someone to either: 1 - provide the test; or/and 2 - do the necessary repair at a reasonable quality and cost. As a third option I've seen that the rail can be removed, straightened and re-welded but I'd need to rent a garage space with hoist to do the job (and probably other things I find under the rail : ( ) myself. Does such a facility exist to rent in Melbourne?

Thanks. Those part numbers are useful.

I am looking to purchase the pinion seal kit and retainer pin for 1980 280zx auto. I believe the pinion to be PN 32703 - 78101. 3.54? Any help would be useful.

I am looking for OEM or aftermarket Speedometer pinion seals and pin for 1980 280zx. VINhgs130-155510 Auto transmission. Local dealer (Australia) preferred.