KatoKid

Great to see everyone, perfect weather and mint cars. Once again big thinks to team Gordo for hosting.

Original seats, well used and in expected condition for their age. Complete seats with factory covers and recline mechanism but NO RAILS $600 PIckup only The Basin 3154

Yep Message me your phone #

Sold!

Bought a new one in the group buy a while back so this one is no longer required. Its pretty good with some minor blemishes only, nothing significant. $100 Pick up The Basin 3154 only

Hi all. These are the orginal doors from my 4/71 240Z. Skins are pretty rusty. Frames are straight but some small rust which would be easily repairable and make great bases for new skins. Free pickup only from The Basin 3154

Hi all. Time for a cleanout. Ive got a (I believe) later 240Z LH door which has the more substantial intrusion bar. The skin and frame are rust free but the skin was removed and has had some efforts to straighten some small dings. It will need more work but would be a good base to start with. $100 pickup only from The Basin 3154

Weather isnt looking great, will see what the morning brings

Thanks Gav!

yep, should be there

https://youtu.be/u1hvRTVJLx4?si=eC3nYMNJo2Kbppl7

Yup

Looks great Peter! Thanks for the rocker cover reminder

In the US so probably not much use to you. Any competent machine shop should be able to spline a shaft if thats what you need?

Good colour choice!

Its a roller. Diff centre in and everything else all bolted on at the same time for the first time. Ride height is near spot on with no preload and enough scope in the shocks to lower it a bit more yet. Will need some serious lows in the front though. Turbo manifolds will be ordinary log manifolds but room is a bit tight on the drivers side rear so invested in one of these https://www.stsmachininginc.com/coll...olvo-1993-1975 Standard steering shaft has a bulky rubber isolator built in and with the straight STS shaft there is actually enough room to bolt in a VE LS3 manifold but it just touches and no way of making more room. I fully expected to have to do fabricated manifolds for both sides so no great issue. Just for shits and giggles I chucked the other manifold on the passenger side......this could work with a reverse rotation turbo or you could do something ghetto with a normal rotation.

Picked up a few bits today. 9" centre: nodular, 1350 yoke, fully studded, tru trac, 3.5. Rear end is now finished other than brake lines so can go together for final time and the car will be a roller finally. Keen to vacate the hoist as I've got other cars that need attention and I refuse to do it on the ground! CP pistons and Callies rods

Bit of a waiting game at the moment......turbo is ordered, pistons and rods ordered, 9" centre is ordered. Good news is that spacers for lower shock brackets, panhard rod and front 4 link mounts are done:

Mine had fiberglass 4/71

Finished final location of ARB arms so tacked to the bar. Likewise for lower mounts to housing and final length of moly tube for drop links. Now its time to weld!

The top shock mounts, bumps stops and ARB chassis mounts all occupy the same real estate so we thought it best to fit and confirm the springs and everyting else would all clear. Fortunately they do but everything is very close and tightly packaged but will work. Pretty releived that we could fit this all in under a stock floor pan!

Next is bump stops. Never having had a drag and drive car thar will probably need to tow a trailer we are concerned with pounding our rear shocks on bumpy country roads so have taken the position that we need effective chassis bump stops that dont rely on the shock bump stops. The original Volvo stops are long and pretty compliant so we wanted something more positive so that when the bumps contacted they didn't compress very much or at all. A trip to Pick a Part yielded some bumps stops off a white van (L300 I think) which were very solid and should fit the bill. With some fabricated brackets these sit in the same positiuon as the Volvo stops and provide 7mm of shaft travel before the shock bumps bottom out. Hopefully this will be sufficient to protect the shocks but we can add more if neeeds be.

It's nearly weldin time but before that we need to adress the issue of axle location. This one hurts but there is no other way, ideally we would go with a diagonal locator or wishbone but because it will be street driven we need to run a full exhaust and want to retain the original fuel tank meaning that the only alternative left is the panhard rod. The rod uses the original chassis mount on the passenger side and a fabricated double shear mount on the diff housing. The rod has a bend to clear the back of the 9" housing meaning it needs to have a bush at the diff end and rod end on the chassis end so that it doesn't flop around depending on extension or compression. Its just tacked for now with the back and bottom brace in place and the top side brace will be completed once the diff is pulled for final welding.

Yep its 4130 cromo with stupid wall thickness, by design they aren't supposed to have much give. it's all about launching the car straight and level.

Mocked up the ARB to see how it looked throughout travel. Full compression, arm clears floor with 10mm clearance: Ride height, arm is at desireable horizontal position: Full droop, arm isn't at full extension or holding up the axle: