Sirpent Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 Full of envy but also admiration as I see all this coming to life David ;-) Quote
KatoKid Posted September 2, 2016 Author Posted September 2, 2016 Before I put the dash in the car the heater box should go in first....I looked at the sorry old dirty rusty heater box and thought there was no way it was going back looking like that....so the next bit is a bit boring but for those who are doing a heater core it may help and its more for myself and the memories of the build so skip this.... or read on if you have a heater hankering. The heater box itself was pretty ugly so it got striped to bits and media blasted then painted as the best way to make it presentable again. The core needed to come out to be checked and re-cored if necessary. Turns out it was in good nick and just got the normal top and tail and soldered back together. The big directional air flap has vinyl glued to some 4mm thick foam on each side to act as a seal and both of these were falling off and just disgusting anyway... so off to Clark rubber for some new foam and vinyl which was then cut to size and glued to both sides of the flap. Each of the foot vent side flaps had 4 mm foam to act as a seal and these had just turned to dust so the same Clark rubber foam was used again to make new seals and I cut long strips of foam to repace the orignal which was glued on to seal all the way around where the side of the heater box seals to the main box. You could probably so without this but it only took a few minutes so why not. The heater core needs some chunky 20mm thick foam to replace the original foam that seals the ends of the core with the box. Last thing was to replace the foam seal on the face vent duct on the front. Doneski! Sirpent, AndBir, d3c0y and 1 other 4 Quote
KatoKid Posted September 2, 2016 Author Posted September 2, 2016 Full of envy but also admiration as I see all this coming to life David ;-) Thanks John. Pretty annoyed at myself for not doing so many things like this while the car was at the panel shop but motivation is back! CBR Jeff 1 Quote
Cozza Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 Shmick as usual David. I'm glad the enthusiasm is back Quote
CBR Jeff Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 Nice work Dave. All of this love for the Z, your mtb bike will be staying clean! Your last two posts have driven home just how much work there is to be done to get a car back together properly. Jeff Quote
George Posted September 3, 2016 Posted September 3, 2016 Excellent Dave! I was just looking at mine and wondering what was in store for me. If mine turns out half as good as yours I'd be chuffed. If it doesn't, I'm sending it your way... Quote
KatoKid Posted September 3, 2016 Author Posted September 3, 2016 Thanks gents. Yes Jeff, MTB hasnt had much attention lately but more because Ive had a stomach bug I cant get rid of....but feeling better today and ended up sprending most of the day digging trenches! Managed to get a couple of hours in on the Z late this arvo. Most of the time went into cleaning the looms prioir to re-taping, I used contact cleaner on a rag which worked well, left no oily residue and the tape adhered well. Only taped the engine bay harness which looks really short and lumpy now as all the original plugs for ignition, strart, charging and oil and temp sensors are in still in place, just folded back on the loom and taped in place as they arent required. The engine bay loom now only provides power for lights, horn, reverse lights, washers and wipers. Quote
garvice Posted September 4, 2016 Posted September 4, 2016 (edited) Any reason why you didn't remove the excess plugs/wires Dave? For my 1600 i went the other way and used the donor vehicles wiring for the ancillaries as it meant i had new wire fuses and relays. Edited September 4, 2016 by garvice Quote
KatoKid Posted September 5, 2016 Author Posted September 5, 2016 Only because the mods Ive done are completely reversable, I didnt want to hack up the orginal loom so that at any time in the future if I or another owner want to convert it back to an original car it can be done without too much trouble. Even behind the dash all the original wiring and plugs are still in place, nothing has been cut. Sounds stupid I know but Ive got the matching engine and its a relatively early build so want to retain as much originality as possible....just in case! CBR Jeff 1 Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted September 5, 2016 Administrators Posted September 5, 2016 Sounds stupid I know but Ive got the matching engine and its a relatively early build so want to retain as much originality as possible....just in case! Not stupid at all, a very wise thing to do in my opinion. Quote
KatoKid Posted September 9, 2016 Author Posted September 9, 2016 (edited) So now that the valve clearances have been done I can put the rocker cover back on.....but it needs to be painted first and so does the airbox. Rocker cover is a bit boy ricer but I like it! Airbox ....black is satin black but a bit glossier than I expected but OK. I had to take the rocker cover to Orgers Engines after I painted it to have them skim the logo on the top to remove the paint. They were more excited than I was and actually did it twice as the first time the feed was a bit fast and left machining marks (which I don't mind) but the second time they slowed it right down and it came out nearly polished. And one of how she looked when it arrived for the UK Edited September 9, 2016 by KatoKid CBR Jeff and NZeder 2 Quote
KatoKid Posted September 9, 2016 Author Posted September 9, 2016 Like the heater box, the other box....pedal that is...was pretty grotty. I'm determined to be disciplined during the reassembly and not put anything back on this car unles I'm 100% happy with it so the pedal box got the standard treatment....disassembly, media blast, repair if and where required, paint and reassembly. CBR Jeff 1 Quote
CBR Jeff Posted September 9, 2016 Posted September 9, 2016 A few nice toys behind that nice looking engine Dave!!! Pedal box looks great. Jeff Quote
Sirpent Posted September 9, 2016 Posted September 9, 2016 As always................Impressive Gordo 1 Quote
C.A.R. Posted September 9, 2016 Posted September 9, 2016 I hope you welded up & re-drilled the clevis pin hole in the clutch pedal before you painted it Dave... Quote
KatoKid Posted September 9, 2016 Author Posted September 9, 2016 No need to Lurchos......the other short arm is used to push the under dash clutch master. Quote
260DET Posted September 9, 2016 Posted September 9, 2016 .................................................. I had to take the rocker cover to Orgers Engines after I painted it to have them skim the logo on the top to remove the paint. They were more excited than I was and actually did it twice as the first time the feed was a bit fast and left machining marks (which I don't mind) but the second time they slowed it right down and it came out nearly polished. .......................................... How about getting that writing machined right off? Only semi serious, the motor looks great and will be a crowd puller in place. Quote
KatoKid Posted September 10, 2016 Author Posted September 10, 2016 So gathering some momentum now.... Heater and pedal boxes installed. And now the dash can go in! Spent ages cleaning all the vents a duct work beforehand but they came up well. Dash bolted in really easily...starting to resemble a car now! Yeehaaa! CBR Jeff, jeff43, AndBir and 1 other 4 Quote
mossy Posted September 10, 2016 Posted September 10, 2016 You'll be driving in no time mate, looking forward to having a driving buddy Quote
KatoKid Posted September 10, 2016 Author Posted September 10, 2016 Too right....they will look sweet together! Quote
Gordo Posted September 10, 2016 Posted September 10, 2016 This is gaining momentum now. Looking forward to see this car. Probably the most enjoyable and rewarding time putting it all back together . Have fun . Quote
Cozza Posted September 11, 2016 Posted September 11, 2016 Wow! That looks great. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the assembly process. Quote
KatoKid Posted September 13, 2016 Author Posted September 13, 2016 Bit more done..... I'm using R33-GTST front brakes and have adapted the booster/master cylinder from the same car http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/9734-240z-manual-only-upgrade-to-skylinesilvia-booster-and-1516th-master-cylinder/ For some reason the opening in the firewall is a teardrop shape which is fine when using the standard booster because the back side of the 240Z booster covers the top of the teardrop but as you can see from the gasket the R33 booster doesnt cover it ....and I needed to cover the original top mounting holes (which I kept in case I want to go back to the original booster). I made a blanking plate to go inside between the pedal box and the firewall. Also added a bit of rubber to fill the top of the teardrop. As with everything else the booster got a paint and the MC a thorough clean and check. mspecr 1 Quote
PeterAllen Posted September 13, 2016 Posted September 13, 2016 (edited) David. If you are going to run a proportioning value give some thought to its placement. I placed mine on the firewall but, now with the motor, wiring loom, heater hoses and GM brake booster installed, it's a PITA to access, even for adjustment let alone mounting. I basically have to remove the engine to access it. It would have been far easier installed on the inner guard. For your consideration. Edited September 13, 2016 by PeterAllen Quote
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