KatoKid Posted January 11, 2017 Author Share Posted January 11, 2017 This engine in a much lighter S30 body will be something else. That's what I'm expecting....E36 is 1450 kg and my car should be between 1100 and 1150kg so at least 3 x big blokes lighter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KatoKid Posted January 11, 2017 Author Share Posted January 11, 2017 Full set of front a rear wheel bearings and seals.....$95.00 from Bearing Wholesalers in Bayswater. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riceburner Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 Sounds great Dave, can't wait to hear it at full noise! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirt Posted January 16, 2017 Share Posted January 16, 2017 Looks like an amazing project. I am very, very impressed. That BMW engine looks and sounds great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialp3 Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 It is a great idea specialp3 and it looks great in your photo (as does everything else!). Did you use normal heat shrink or the newer-style with glue lining? It seems to me that the glue lining might help it stay in place better and might help in forming a sealed end. The only thing to be careful of, however, is that the glue lined type has a shrink ratio of 4:1 compared to 2:1, so you would need to size it appropriately. It is also less flexible than normal heat shrink, but that shouldn't matter here. The good thing about using heat shrink is that its pretty cheap and you could easily remove it and try again if you mess up first go. Just normal old jay car shrink. Been in the engine now for 5 years and is still prefect. I have seen that you can now buy heat shrink that is like a sock so you can have the ends of the wiring tags covered. Will get to redoing this one day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialp3 Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Moving on to other things.....I'm going to use the dreaded R31 rear calipers and have followed Scoota's updates and recommendations http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/7330-tutorial-r31-skyline-rear-disc-conversion-for-240260z-new-300mm-rotor-conversion-sep2016/ I filled and finished the original mounting holes in the brackets and had an engineering shop machine the bore of the caliper brackets as required. No offence to Scoota (Mark) but I didn't want to risk the engineer knocking back the significantly modified brackets so I've elected to leave them pretty well untouched and have ground areas of the hub casting to get the brackets to fit and to rotate upwards as much as possible from the normal 3:00 o'clock position as per Mark's suggestions, hopefully this will be enough! Grinding the hub casting was pretty easy and didn't take long.....probably easier than modifying the brackets. Rear caliper bracket 3.jpg Rear caliper bracket 2.jpg Rear caliper bracket 4.jpg Rear caliper bracket 1.jpg Hi Dave, Very nice. Stewart Wilkins has a disc rear end that we developed when I built my car, it retains the original handbrake and works extremely well. I know he has ready to bolt on kits available. Many hours (50 if I remember right) went into to making this work for engineer approvals. I haven't followed your entire thread so not sure what front brakes you are using, the matching 4 pot Nissan callipers on the front does look good The attached photos are not great but give you an idea. I am unsure of forum etiquette so let me know if attaching photos to your thread is not cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KatoKid Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 Thanks Aaron.....all good with the photos.....that's what it's all about, helping each other out. Didn't know SW did this, I've come this far so will see if I can make it work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KatoKid Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 Its been a couple of frustrating weeks......hot, and my shed is like an oven....plus sealing and electrical gremlins. When I first started the engine in the car everything was fine except the fuel gauge was doing weird things and certainly not reading correctly. I had calibrated the sender before the dash even went into the car and was confident this was correct so I started to dig into it but couldn't find any issues. I thought it was a problem with the sender in the tank so I removed the tank and probably just as well as the supposed nitrile rubber gasket I had made for the fuel module was being eaten by the fuel. All the research I did and a few phone calls said that nitrile was the correct choice but it certainly wasn't working for me! I bought another piece of nitrile from another suppler but it looked and felt exactly the same as the original piece I used to make the gasket so I decided to use rubberized cork which is a more traditional material. The cork looks and feels really robust but I'm still not convinced so I'm doing my own shed durability testing to try and confirm the best material. I checked the sender on the fuel module and all looked good. When I tried to re-calibrate I realized something was wrong and when I checked the gauge I found the earth point I had used was dodgy....so I pulled the tank for no reason but lucky I had anyway! I put everything back together and ran the engine to check for leaks, all was good for a few minutes and then the engine stopped....uh oh... this isn't good. Initial investigations said the fuel pump wasn't working. The pump is controlled by the ECU and it seemed to be getting power when required but wasn't working all the time, it would run for a few seconds and then stop and when I recycled the ignition it would run again and then stop once it had built some pressure....very weird. I checked my wiring harness and earths and everything seemed in order and tried running external power full time to eliminate ECU issues but still no luck. My trusty multimeter told me the fuel pump was going open circuit when it stopped had continuity at other times, I hadn't touched the fuel pump or wiring when I was checking the sender but something wasn't right ...so time to pull the tank again! Cutting a very long story short..... where the pump earth wire connects inside the fuel module had a loose and poor connection and I could see where it had been arcing which had made the connection progressively worse. The pump would run but as soon as it built some pressure and started to draw more amps it would stop due to the poor connection. I cleaned this up and put some more tension on the connector and all was good.....much relief to have clearly identified the problem as I was worried I would put it back together and it would run fine but without really identifying the issue......only for it to rear its head and some time a long way from home! Fugging electrickery. On to some good news....all of my suspension bushes arrived from zcarsource.com. I went with rubber instead of urethane (cos not racecar) and also bought ball joints, spindle pins and cotter pins. The front sway bay pivots and mustache bar bushes ended up being urethane which I was a bit annoyed about but wont use the mustache bar bushes anyway, everything else was genuine Nissan except the ball joints. Time to bolt the diff in but it needed a good clean and repaint beforehand ......its a R200 3.7 with a Kaaz two way LSD and the front mount for the RT mount is on as well. The factory ZF 5 speed I'm running is not an overdrive 4.20 (1), 2.49 (2), 1.66 (3), 1.24 (4), 1.00 (5) with 5th gear being 1:1 the acceleration should be...um....swiftish, especially considering the donor car had a 3.15:1 final drive. It might be a bit frantic and I could be be looking for a taller diff ratio eventually but its got a 7,500 rpm red line so I may as well use it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 A word of advice Dave - ditch the RT diff mount & buy a SWM modified cross-member instead. The RT unit transmits unpleasant NVH into the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PB260Z Posted February 12, 2017 Moderators Share Posted February 12, 2017 (edited) Hi Dave I have to agree with your comment "Fugging electrickery" I reckon we have all been caught out by this black magic - I know I have. Cheers PB Edited February 12, 2017 by PB260Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterAllen Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 ...all of my suspension bushes arrived from zcarsource.com. I went with rubber instead of urethane (cos not racecar)... David. 'Squeak'... I also went for ... 'squeak' ... rubber instead of ... 'squeak' ... polyurethane. When I installed them ... 'squeak' ... I didn't use any rubber grease... 'squeak'. I would suggest... 'squeak'... you do. Ponyo240z 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KatoKid Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 A word of advice Dave - ditch the RT diff mount & buy a SWM modified cross-member instead. The RT unit transmits unpleasant NVH into the car. I'm kinda committed with this set up as I need to control pinion angle due to BMW guibo joint drive train angularity thingy. Whats the SW set up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZED660 Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 (edited) Hi Dave, I have attached a phone shot of an SW diff mount. Cheers, Geoff OOPS!! I have made several attempts and the shot won't load, probably my inferior computer skills!! I will try and sort it out. Edited February 12, 2017 by ZED660 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riceburner Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 I agree with Lurch and Geoff, I also switched out the RT diff mount for the SWM type. The SWM type is fantastic and fail proof Ifthe bush ever lets go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KatoKid Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 (edited) Thanks guys. SW set up won't fit due to the way I've modified the cross-member to run the exhaust. I will see how it goes and if needs be make some changes within the constraints I have to work with, the Energy Suspension mount is a captive type so cant separate. Cheers Edited February 12, 2017 by KatoKid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KatoKid Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 Hi Dave I have to agree with your comment "Fugging electrickery" I reckon we have all been caught out by this black magic - I know I have. Cheers PB Truth is PB that the problem was caused by the poor quality non genuine fuel module and components.....but trickery is still trickery! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 (edited) I'm kinda committed with this set up as I need to control pinion angle due to BMW guibo joint drive train angularity thingy. Whats the SW set up? Understandable Dave, but I would seriously look at making the SWM cross-member work. Edit - Fair nuff mate. Edited February 12, 2017 by Lurch ™ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KatoKid Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 Making some significant headway now. Shifter and handbrake assembly's are in: Moustache bar and diff: Rear suspension with new spindle pins and OEM bushes (plenty of anti size and no squeak rubber grease Peter Allen): Rear hubs and brakes are temporarily installed as I need to be sure I can get the dreaded R31 handbrake to work satisfactorily ....which I think I have....more to come in the next post! RB26DETT, PeterAllen and George 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KatoKid Posted February 15, 2017 Author Share Posted February 15, 2017 (edited) What I expected to be a right royal pain the ass actually turned out to be one of the easiest parts of the build......the R31 handbrake. I need to preface this by saying that I bought a new reproduction handbrake cable from eBay a while ago as my original cable was totally seized and couldn't be resurrected and the reproduction handbrake cable (I think) was slightly different in dimensions than the original. I had already made the changes to the caliper bracket a few posts back so the calipers just bolted on and the cable attached perfectly to the cable bracket on the caliper without modification. All the previous posts I had read on this conversion required shortening of this cable bracket on the caliper.....not sure why. I installed and adjusted out all the free-play under the tunnel and tried the handbrake, it was clear I had the same problem as everyone else.....the handbrake went all the way through its travel and was like pulling on a rubber band and still didn't lock the rear discs. It was pretty obvious that the issue was that the fulcrum point where the cable attaches was too close to the pivot point meaning there was insufficient travel. I mocked up a bolt on bracket to confirm how much I had to move the fulcrum point and how much travel was required, tried it out and was pleasantly surprised that the handbrake worked really well with 6 clicks of movement to provide good locking on of the discs and seven clicks if I really reefed on it,,,,and it also felt right with none of the elasticity of before without requiring too much pressure for adequate locking. I welded on the proper fulcrum extension and gave it two holes for adjustment and rechecked how it works but the furthermost hole clearly works best. With the caliper brackets sitting in the upwards rotated position you can use the original Skyline rubber hose....but you require a bubble flare on the hard line end, not the original double inverted type. You can buy an adapter if you want http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-46703-788-522.aspx?origin=keyword but I'm going to get custom braided hoses which will have the correct ends on it. I cant budge the rear disc using a long breaker bar but will reserve final judgement on this conversion when I can actually drive the car. I still need to secure the cables so they don't rub on the CV shafts but this wont be hard. The only downside I can see is the need to rotate the caliper to bleed properly but don't think it will be an issue. All parts need to go to for plating now and then on to the front suspension. Cheers Edited February 15, 2017 by KatoKid PeterAllen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PB260Z Posted February 15, 2017 Moderators Share Posted February 15, 2017 (edited) Hi, It is funny how sometimes the steps you are dreading turn out to be much easier than expected - shame this doesn't happen more often. That fix to the fulcrum problem is a very neat and simple fix. Have added that to list of jobs to do on the bus. Cheers PB Edited February 15, 2017 by PB260Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garvice Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 Looks good. Found when doing a mates car that having the rear short bracket in line with the longer front bracket that the rear would bind at full extension. Found rotating to rear of car a good 10 to 20deg helped but required shortening some links from memory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KatoKid Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 Had a big win today thanks to Gordo.... I have 16x8 wheels that I really love and intend to run on this car but it wont get through engineering with wheels this width so I need to go down to 7 inch wide and hope the engineer will be OK with them as technically they are border line according to NCOP. 16x7 inch wheels are not easy to find but 15x7 are plentiful so I was on the hunt for some 15x7 rims, problem is I wasn't sure my big brake conversion would fit under 15 inch wheels. Gordo came to the rescue and said I could try his spare set and I was very relieved to find they fit.....about 10-15mm clearance diameter wise and the 2-3mm clearance on the calipers which was the big potential issue but which will also vary considerably from wheel to wheel design. Thanks Gordo! Gordo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBR Jeff Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 Great work Dave! I go away for a few weeks holiday then with work and you have been in your shed setting a cracking pace. I had better get my priorities back on track :-). Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KatoKid Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 (edited) Front suspension is done with all new bushes and ball joints. If you ever have front struts modified by MCA or others remember to remove the front brake hose bracket before you send them away and then you will have to weld them back on. Apart from the fact that they are R33 brakes can anyone pick whats odd/different about the brakes in these shots.....gold star for the first person who gets it right! Edited February 21, 2017 by KatoKid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff43 Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 Calipers are leading, not trailing, ie in front of the strut not behind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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