Enzo

OK. From what I understand 240z to August 1971 had the front brakes attached to the front of the master cylinder (to the shorter, fatter reservoir). From September 1971 onwards 240z, 260z and 280z had the master cylinder with the front brakes connected to the rear of the master cylinder (shorter, fatter reservoir). The lines will have to be bent to line up. Have a look at the service manual. Regards David.

Hi Adam , As Lurch says. On the 240z master cylinder the front brakes attach to the front of the master cylinder and on the 260z the front brakes attach to the rear of the master cylinder. (closer to the booster). If they are the wrong way around the rears will lock up first. David

Hi Guys, Back in the early 80's in NSW I was a distributer for Normalair Garrett Turbo systems. This looks to have the 38mm Garrett waste gate and Turbo. Inlet and exhaust manifold were available in kit form. These were all aftermarket kits. The twin CD Stromberg carbs in this case appear fitted to a homemade manifold. As a drawthrough system these would normally come with a single carb. Back in the day a decompression plate would be fitted dropping the compression to about 7.5:1 and the CD Stromberg carb fitted with the correct needle jet for the engine size to give correct fuel mix under boost. With the Stromberg carb you could get good fuel economy and they would flow enough air to give good performance under boost conditions. These now are old school as fuel injected turbo is much more reliable. At the time though they were a good way for quick horsepower increase without having to rev the guts out of an engine. On my 2.0 litre escort race engine I ran a 45 DCOE Weber with the Garrett turbo for a 100% power increase over the same normally aspirated engine with twin 45 DCOE webers at lower rpms. Those were interesting times when a lot of people were saying that Turbos were just a fad and wouldn't last. If you wanted power than go supercharged. Well time proved them wrong. Anyway it would be interesting to strip you engine down and rebuild it with all the existing gear if your finances allow it. Have a chat to Peter Mac and get his opinion. It would be worth the phone call. Regards David.

Zefram Cochrane rides again

Hi mate, The project is looking good. In reference to the Fusible link. You said that the manual mentioned the different thickness wires but you weren't worried that the ones you made up are too big. The thickness of the wire is important as this is your line of defence against a major electrical short that can destroy the complete electrical loom. Buy the correct wire from an auto sparkie or take the manual and get him to make up the correct fuse wire. A few dollars spent wisely may save big dollars in the long term. Keep up the good work on the project. David

Hi Mate, I have the Flat Top carb tuning manual but can't compress it enough to send through the Forum because of the 256kb limit. If you can supply an email address I will send it to you. As Scoota is inferring, Flat tops are not the way to go. You should purchase the earlier 240z (pre- emission) round top carbs. These are a much better option. If not available through the forum, ebay should be a second choice. David

Hello Again, Since we are all guessing at this stage. Did you remove the one way valve from the booster line when you had things pulled out of the engine bay. If so did it go back in the correct way to hold pressure in the booster. Quick way to test is pull the vacuum line at the booster and you should hear the sound of pressure release if working . David.

Hi, I had the same problem once. I couldn't get all the air out by pumping the pedal. I fixed it by getting a 1" plastic syringe from Bunnings and attaching a piece of clear tube over the tip and fitting the other end to the Master Cylinder bleed screws. Open the screw and draw the brake fluid through with the syringe. When the air bubbles stop coming through do the other bleed screw. This worked good for me. Regards David.

Hi Stiva, It looks like this one. I really like the aggressive rake and I think it complements the GNose and flares. This is my favourite picture of a Zed. David

Cheers for the future Lurch. I always had a little chuckle at some of your comments, and for me I could see the humour in them. Thank goodness they weren't directed at me. All the best. David.

Hi Guys, I also have a set of 2" Jag SU carbs on a manifold that I tried once. Throttle shafts didn't leak and it idled better than the old Hitachi/SU's, but the needles were as thick as broom handles. Ran too lean off idle. Anyone know what numbers/letters would be on the needles for a good starting point in a worked 260z. David

Hi, I have the 260z flat top carby adjustment manual. I can,t attach it to this message as the file is too large even in zip form. If any one wants a copy send an email address or give me advice on how to post it. Regards David.

Hi Mate, If running triples you need a fuel pressure regulator limited to 2.5-3 psi. Too much pressure will cause flooding. Just a thought. David.

Hello, http://www.classicrevival.com.au/ Check out Classic Revivals web site. I have included a picture of my 1976 260z with the modified side windows. Good luck if you decide to go this way as a lot of time and effort is required. But in the long run, you will have something different.

Err! Eg, 'horse of large size, john riding' Who is John? and are you saying he's hung like a horse.

Hi, The standard indicator flasher cannister has points in it like a distributor. These burn out with age and the indicators flash slow then eventually stop. Replace it with an electronic unit purchased from your local auto electrician. This is a staight plug-in. David

Hi, As RB30X said. Early Datsuns (280zx) had the 3N71B model auto. Codes: X2707 for non-turbo..... Torque converter code G X2770 for Turbo............Torque converter code A David

Bozo,remove the hoses so you don't have vacuum at the carb. This should be vented to atmospheric pressure.

Hi Bozo, From your pictures it looks like you are running the N36 inlet manifold with the vacuum fittings behind the first carb. You have 2 hoses attached from the manifold to what looks like the suction chamber air inlet on the face of the carb behind the filters. The suction chamber inlet should be drawing air into the carb at atmospheric pressure. What the picture shows is vacuum drawing against the dampener. Remove the hoses and block off the 2 vacuum fittings at the manifold. On the diagram No 5 shows the direction of air flow. Regards David

Hi Guys, Everything you wanted to know about L28 Turbos. Sorry. I couldn't resist this. David

Hi Guys, I have an unregistered 1981 280zx Targa top 2x2 for sale at $3500. The only thing I have done is replace the tie rod ends and one rear CV rubber boot. I don't have time to do the bodywork. The motor runs great and it comes with lots of spares. It has rust but nothing drastic. The previous owner in Adelaide sprayed it in two pack paint but didn't rub it back except for a light scuff. It really needs to be repainted. The photo of the car has my spare set of original 260z wheels on it but it is for sale with a set of Performance mags 16x7 with 205x55 and 225x50 tyres which came with the car. (one in the picture). R200 diff installed with Koni reds on the rear. Spares include; rear hatch glass, headlight buckets and lights,computer and harness, throttle body, new rotors, assorted bits and pieces. The vehicle is in Kalgoorlie WA so if interested email me or call 0438912234. This is for sale as a complete item and will not be separated. Thank You David

Hello all, Speaking of Catalina Park has brought back memories of when I raced Rally Cross back in the early 80's. I embedded my car into the fence in the middle of the tunnel with a blown tyre which effectivrly closed the event down on the last Rally Cross meet at the Park. I walked around the Rally Cross track in 2007. It's a shame that it closed because it was a great experience and the presentations which were held in the old Carrington Hotel were memorable. The grand old Hotel looked a treat with all the race cars on trailers parked out front. Thanks for bringing back the memories. Happy and safe New Year. David.

Merry Christmas from Western Australia. Have a safe and happy Christmas and New Year. An old Irish quote. "May the road rise to meet you May the wind be always at your back The sun shine warm upon your face The rains fall soft upon your fields And until we meet again, May God hold you in the hollow of his hand". Merry Christmas David

The R180 diff has the bar mounted with the curls to the rear and the R200 diff has the bar mounted with the curls to the front. The correct bar has to be used with the correct diff. They are not interchangable. David.

Hi, Could be that your timing is advanced too far for initial start up. Loosen off the distributor lock screw and retard the timing a few degrees. David.