Enzo

Hi, (My 260z had a clunk which was noticable even when stationery. Put in first gear and let the clutch out, clunk, change to reverse and let the clutch out, clunk. Changed out the R200 (3.9) last night and finished putting the R180 (3.7) in tonight. 100% better. ) Sounds like I described at the start. If you have a good diff change it out. David.

+1 280zx (1981) with 280z on the plate. David

I have had my Zed ( 1976 260z) for about six years now. Sits in the shed till I have the urge to change something on it or go for a drive around town. Usually once every 2 or 3 months. I have done a total of 3000 kms in this time. I also occassionally do some work on my project 1981 280zx when time permits. David

Hello Peter, Looking good. Just a couple of things. I presume you have the extra green wire to the choke as an earth wire.This is not nessessary as the engine is earth anyway. Also the fuel return line can be changed to a 90 degree fitting so to hoses are parrallel, not sticking up as if on viagra. Just a thought. Keep up the good work. David

Hello, I have the same master cylinder on mine. Did you remove the residual pressure valve from the disc brake circuit. The JB1419 was originally made for front and rear drum brakes and has a residual pressure valve fitted to both circuits to keep a small amount of pressure in the lines for drum brakes. They are fitted under the large nuts where the fluid lines connect. For a disc brake front the valve in this line has to be removed or the residual pressure will keep the pads in contact with the rotor causing tight brakes and overheating. If using rear discs as well with this master cylinder both valves should be removed. David.

Hi, What master cylinder did you use. David

Excellent, Even got room for a small dust free engine build booth. I bet it won't take long to fill it up. Well done. David

Hello guys & gals, I'm looking for a brake pressure regulating valve for a 1976 260z. This is the one with four lines to it. Mine is allowing the front lines to bypass the valve and pressurize the rears. This reduces the pressure to the front discs. Name your price with postage to WA. David

Hello again Peter, I would be tempted to fit a "T" piece to the fuel outlet pipe and another "T" to the return line and join them. Make sure one of the "T" pieces has a restrictor in it. (solder or tap a thead and fit a plug with a small hole). Check the pressure at the carb to make sure the restrictor is not too large. David.

Chris , As I understand it the return line is only to take pressure off the needle and seat. When the motor is switched off the fuel in the lines is exposed to heat sink from the motor causing pressure to pushed against the needle and seat. If this leaks then the motor could be hard to start. The original fuel lines on the Datsun has a restrictor in the return line. Please feel free to correct me if I have got it wrong. David

Peter, The Holley likes between 5-7 psi and as my electric fuel pump puts out 5 psi I removed the holley pressure regulator that had to be fitted for the SU's. I fitted a "T" piece into the fuel line at the end of the metal line from the tank near the alternator and plumbed this back into the return line with a restrictor ( about 0.5mm Hole). This takes the pressure off the needle and seat in the carb when the motor is switched off. The line from the "T" piece to the carb is from the local brake shop 5/16 inch steel with the ends flared for a tight fit on the rubber joiners. I also have removed the PCV valve and fitted a large filter at the block. The valve cover has also a filter but this will vent to the air cleaner when time permits. David.

Couple of more pictures

Hello Peter, Looking Good. Sorry for the delay getting back to you with the pictures but have been organising a job change. With the setup as it is open the throttle fully to make sure the choke fast idle screw doesn't foul on the manifold. (mine had to be modified). If you purchased the throttle cable from Arizona Z as well this can easily be fitted to the original linkage as in my pictures. Heat shields are handy too if made from stainless steel to protect the throttle cable and the vacuum plug on the rear of the carb. I ran the vacuum advance from the carb and used the blue alloy vacuum fitting for the carbon canister lines and also for a vacuum guage when tuning. The carbon canister is still fitted for original look but is blocked off with plugs in the lines. A "T" piece is fitted near the canister for an internal mounted vacuum guage. By the way. Drives great. :) Hope this helps David

+1 for backlash in the diff. My 260z had a clunk which was noticable even when stationery. Put in first gear and let the clutch out, clunk, change to reverse and let the clutch out, clunk. Changed out the R200 (3.9) last night and finished putting the R180 (3.7) in tonight. 100% better. I don't want to do that again in a hurry. Cheers David.

Apologies to you guys. I am sitting at my desk organising a trip away with work for Monday morning at 6.00am. This was sprung on me at last minute so I will not be able to attend. The idea of a 600kms return on Sunday night just to get home and then another 450km trip for work leaving at 6.00am Monday morning doesn't rock my boat. Maybe next cruise. Have a great day and drive safely. Regards David. :'(

What, no seatbelt for those wild times on the computer. David

Hi Guys, Plus one more for Penrite. I use HPR30 as it get pretty hot in summer WA. Zinc Mass % = 0.158. I did try the semi -synthetic once but it made the Rockers noisier. When I originally built the motor I ran it in using DELO 400 diesel oil because of the high zinc content. (New cam, rockers, lash pads etc.) David

Hi TJ, I agree with Chris240. I got Tokico Illumina's from the USA about six months ago. These are 5 way adjustable and cost about $600 delivered. Now the Aussie dollar is better they will be cheaper. I fitted mine inserted in oil for better heat dispersion. I also have lowered King Springs. I would not have done 100 klm since fitting them but they are a thousand percent better than the monroe gas shocks I took out. I run the on the No 2 setting. David.

Hello Peter, I am away for the week but next weekend I will post a photo of the linkage. I purchased the throttle cable and linkage with the manifold from Arizona Z Car and the Holley (390 CFM 4 barrel ) in Australia on ebay. This is the cheapest way to do it.The throttle cable that Dave sells fits easily as I fitted it to the pivot point next to the Clutch master cylinder. This way you don't have to stuff around and make it go through the firewall onto the pedal. All I had to do was make a bracket that bolted to the bonnet latch support. If you save the pics and then zoom in you may see how they are attached.I won't have internet access till next Friday so will post extra pics then. Regards David

G'Day, I like what you are doing to the car. Just curious about the fuel filler. It looks pretty straight, and I was wondering if there is going to be enough angle to insert the curved fuel hose without fuel flowing back out the opening. Keep up the good work David.

Hi Guys, I have the Arizona manifold and 390CFM Holley fitted to my 260z. Dave at Arizona is a guy worth taking the time to have a chat with. I have had triple Dellorto's over the years and the car originally came with the 240Z SU carbs but they were worn and needed a rebuild. The usual vacuum leaks on the shafts. I like the simplicity of the engine bay and the car goes great. This is a street Zed, not a race Zed even though it has a sweet engine. I tried to load photos but the file was too large. Have a look at the Arizona site for Photos. Cheers David. (Just worked out how to resize photos. The valve cover is the one I bought off Benny).

Hi Gav, Sweet ride. I always liked this model. Don't run over any leprechauns. I hear they are a pain to get out of the grille. David.

Hello, Hopefully I will be down from Kalgoorlie on this weekend. It will be the first time that my Zed has been out of the shed for quite a few months. This will be the first time I have been on a Zed run and I will look forward to it. My vehicle is a 1976 260Z with a fibreglass body kit. ( A bit different). Regards David.

Hi Gav, $20 for a can of high temp caliper paint at the auto shop. Colour of your choice and quick and simple, unless you specifically want powdercoating. My 2 cents. Regards David.

Hi Guys, In referrence to the triple SU's. Listed on the American ebay site is a manifold for triple SU's and the casting moulds with 2x SU carbs and assorted bits and pieces. Also comes with patent paperwork. Regards David