Enzo

Hi Richard, I use Redline MT-90 gearoil in my 1976 260z gearbox. This oil has a GL-4 rating. Don't use an oil with a GL-5 rating as these have a higher content of extreme pressure (EP) modifiers such as MoS2 ( molydeum disulphide ) which corrode the copper alloy used to make the synchros. Use only the correct oils in Engine, gearbox and differential or you will shorten the life of the component. And for anyone building a new motor or running in a new camshaft and rockers etc. Most oil manufacturers have stopped using zinc in their oils due to environmental reasons. Without the zinc additive more wear on a new component is evident. Lobes wearing off cams etc. Diesel oils so far still have the zinc additive. For running in motors with new cams I use Caltex Delo 400 (15w-40) . If it is just a re-ring and bearing job i use pennzoil running in oil. There is info on the net for anyone interested to check. Hope this helps. Regards David.

A guy escapes from a mental institution and runs away through a forrest. He follows a stream until he comes across two women campers washing clothes at the stream edge. He grabs both women and has his way with them and then runs away back into the forrest never to be seen again. The headlines in the newspaper next day read. "NUT SCREWS WASHERS AND BOLTS".

Hi Sulio, You say it was late and cold. But I think the car looks HOT! Well done. Regards David.

Hi Guys, I use a crane XR-700 electronic ignition with an optical trigger on my 260z and a GT40R coil. Never have any problems. Tacho works well with this system. I came across an American article about early 240z's stating that there were two types of Tacho's. One with three wires (- on coil ) and one with four wires (+ on coil ). The guy says the three wire Tacho is the better one to use. Don't know if this is true or not. Maybe someone with more knowledge can comment on this. Regards David.

Hi Rev, Stop using the car immediatley or risk destroying the motor. Quicker to replace the head gasket than than risking further damage to the rotating parts or possibly warping a head. David.

G'Day, I use a straight through resonator in the tunnel alongside the tail shaft and a Lukie straight through (oval shape) at the rear. The sound is strong without being too loud. I notice that you have not fitted the carb heat shield yet. This would be advisable to keep heat from the fuel bowls. Regards David.

Well done Rev. It appears that you do have the devine touch. You can work on my car anytime. Regards David.

Hello, You mention that the setup is complete, but the "O" ring rubber anti-vibration gaskets are missing between the carbs and manifold. Also the bolts are too short ( should be studs ) and should have either rubber grommets or thackery washers fitted. The linkage is not correct for a zed .The middle carb is different from the outer two. It has external adjustable idle mixture screws whereas the outer two carbs have the screws inside the towers. Can you list the part numbers on the carbs and what jetting and choke tubes are fitted in each carb. Sorry to be picky, but just like to get an accurate picture of what you are selling. David.

Forgive me Father for I have sinned. ( and got caught ).

Hi Sulio, I just received an email from John Moulton and the Price is $320.00 US for every thing in the photo. Manifold ,Linkage and installation hardware. Postage to Australia is $75.00 US . That is S&H + insurance with USPS ( Priority Mail International ). I tried to include the email but it will not allow me to. Guess i'm not too good with computers. Regards David.

Hi Guys, I just had a look at the Jam Engineering website and this looks like a good deal . $320.00 online price for Cannon Manifold,Linkages and installation hardware ( p/n 99003.829 ). Of course you have to email them for freight costs on top. It looks like the packaging says for racing use only in USA. I think there is only one vacuum outlet for the brake booster. I have a redline manifold with my triples but they are not on the car at the moment till I get a spare head. Regards David.

Hi Mossy, I fitted the Hopper Stopper kit to my 1976 260z about 3 years ago. 300mm drilled and slotted rotors. I bought the 1" master cylinder as suggested in the instructions for about $80.00 back then. I use the original rear finned drum brakes and the car stops on a dime. The kit fitted easily but with 15" wheels I had to take a couple of millimetres off the fins. I changed to 16"x8" three piece mags. There is a picture in my photo gallery of the setup. I would recommend this conversion for any Zed as a quick upgrade with 16" or larger wheels. I have had no problems at all since the installation and would do it again if I bought another Zed. Cost was about $1300.00. Good motoring David.

Interesting. The tacho is registering 1000rpm, the temp is normal. All other guages not working in the photo.

Hi Guys, Do any of you have a spare E88 head in good condition for a 260z. Happy to pay freight to Kalgoorlie WA. Looking forward to replies. Regards David.

Hi Sulio, Congradulations on the latest edition to your car. Remember that Dellortos like about 2.5 psi fuel pressure. You can also change the bango fitting on the last carb to allow fuel to return to the tank through a small restriction , to reduce pressure on the needle and seats when the engine is turned off.

Change your seats so the harness goes through the slots directly above the shoulders like in Zedman 240's photo if you want to use anything other than original. David.

This thread is starting to sound like a pissing competition. It doesn't matter how much you spend on your car as long as you are happy with it and it is safe to go on the road. I don't want to upset anyone because we all have pride in our vehicles, but with the different age groups and and financial resources available to us, not all can spend up big on our cars. If I have offended anyone I appologise in advance. Happy and safe motoring for 2008. Regards David.

I have similar bowls that are great when working on the car. There is a magnet underneath which allows the bowl to be mounted on any metal part of the car and hold all of the metal parts that you put in it. Screws, bolts etc. Great when working on the engine. I just attatch it to the underside of the bonnet and throw the parts in. Even upsidedown the parts will not fall out. Strong Magnet. Regards David.

Well Done. Funniest thing I have heard all week.David.

Hi Guys, Merry Christmas to you all. I agree with the air flow dynamics over the rear of the vehicle. The airflow needs to be altered with a spoiler or wing. When my 260z was in it's original configeration I had exhaust fume problems. When I installed the fibreglass bodykit which extends past the hatch by about 800mm with a spoiler the problem was solved. Have a safe new year. David

How to rebuild your Nissan and Datsun OHC Engine by Tom Munroe. How to modify your Nissan and Datsun OHC Engine by Frank Honsowetz Both these are very informative books. Cheers David.

Hi , Depending on how the car was driven and the octane rating of the fuel used, you can get away without the water injection. It was mainly used as an extra precaution again detination.David.

Hi rob, Just had a read of this thread. The turbo setup that you have is an old one. I used to be a distributor for Normalair Garrett in NSW back in the early 1980's and was racing Turbo cars back when people thought they would not last and the only way to go was supercharging. The oil feed to the turbo will to be to the turbo body between the compressor housing and the Turbine housing to lube the bearings. The return line is from the bottom of the housing to the sump above the oil level. The tube feeding into the air cleaner will be for water injection to to cool and condense the fuel air mixture. Less chance of pinging at boost. The Vacuum switch in the picture at the back of the inlet manifold is boost operated at a preset boost to turn the water injection on. The system will produce good performance and economy ( depending on how you drive it ) using the single CD Stromberg carb installed. The Turbo should be rebuilt because of it's age . Compression should be in the vacinity of 7.5:1 and they should have a Turbo camshaft installed. Turbo cams are less aggressive than ones used on normally asperated performance engines. The radiator should also have a shroud fitted to aid cooling. An oil cooler is also a good idea on a Turbo car. Good luck with your project . Regards David.

Well said Craig. I couldn't agree more. Regards David.

it's impossible to have the chain on the opposite side from the tensioner loose if you are turning the motor over by hand in the correct direction. ( clockwise ).As the crank turns the tension is taken up in the chain which in turn rotates the camshaft. You should be turning the crank till top dead centre is aligned with the timing mark zero. If the distributor rotor button is aimed at plug lead No 1 all is good and all you have to do is check that the camshaft is aligned to it marks. If the rotor button is 180 degrees out turn the crank one full revolution to top dead centre and check again.