Enzo

Hi Guys, Thanks for the input Lurch. I knew that you wouldn't be far away. Since I already have the Mallory/MSD parts so I will use them and if they fail then I will consider other options. I realise that the cam is big for street use but this is a dual purpose engine. Street/ Hill climbs, sprints etc. I'll just wait and see what happens. By the way. I always enjoy your posts. Gavin, James knows what is going into the engine and what I want it for, so will do whatever is necessary. I'm not interested in chasing HP or torque figures. They are just numbers to impress people or sell engines. For street use it doesn't matter much and as long as the engine does what I want, I will be happy. I actually didn't know James existed until I got an email from Peter Mac saying he was not doing any more work. After a bit of research and a few phone calls to James I decided he was the man for the job. Jason is spot on about the twin idler setup plus the cool factor. Would have bought local, but got a good deal out of Japan. Gavin, As for induction, that will be something different and will be shown at the completion of the build.( That's if it works) Cheers David.

Hi Gavin, Same valve lift (.560') and duration (300 degrees) as the cam that you have but the lobe separation is narrower on the intake and exhaust. These have been altered for better response at lower rpm's. This has been ground for Eiji's Datsun Spirit customers. He states that it is a good cam to use with the valves, pistons and rods as supplied by him and gives very smooth acceleration from low rpm all the way up to 8000 rpm. Compression ratio needs to be at a minimum of 11.0:1 or higher. I am using the Schneider springs as recommended for the high lift cam. Cheers David

Hi, It's not as bad as you would think. The oil is flicked off in lines corresponding to the spray nozzle, so it doesn't cover the entire sheet. Anyway, it only has to be run long enough to confirm that none of the nozzles are blocked. As I said. I just had spare time and parts on the day. A bit like today. I should be in the shed but decided to fix windows 8 on my new computer and using start8 give it the windows 7 appearance. I found windows 8 hard to navigate. Also, I hate cleaning up oil all over the place. Just added a youTube link. David.

Up to about $9500 at the moment in new parts. Still have to pay for the head work and block machining to be done. The head should be arriving at Mia Engines in Sydney in the next few days and the block work will be done in Perth in June. I will be doing the block prep work myself before I take it to the machine shop. It only started out as a spare engine rebuild with flat top cast pistons, but it's like chocolate cake. Once you have had the first slice, you want more. It's getting bigger than Ben Hur,and the piggy bank is starting to squeal, but I may as well do it right the first time. I've sold a few things off to cover costs. I just call it a re-allocation of funds. Lol. Cheers David

Hi Guys, I had too much time on my hands one weekend and used a spare damaged valve cover to make the pictured item to check that the oiler bar was flowing correctly. I didn't want oil sprayed everywhere, and it was quick to make. Pretty rough but did the job. I cut out the top with one of the cutters with the dual reciprocating wheels. Real quick and very effective. Then using a plastic sheet from Bunnings, I just folded it over and riveted in place. Silicon was used to fill the gaps and cover the rivets and then left overnight. I had previously cut out the oil cap threaded section with a hole saw to modify my Kawakami valve cover, and this is were Gavin ended up getting his breather piece. Anyway it's something different. Cheers David.

Hi Guys, Question for the technically minded. Does anyone know what is the hard setting sealant used inside the valve cover to seal the plate over the inside of the breather tube. It is hard setting, used as a sealant and also covers the plate screws to stop them coming out I presume. Forty years latter the heat and oil have not affected its integrity. I am modifying a valve cover and need to find something similar in quality. Thanks in advance David.

Hi Guys, It seems that a lot of people are building new engines at the moment, so I thought that I would share my plans. I have been sourcing parts from various suppliers in Australia, Japan and the USA over the last couple of months. I still have a few purchases to make and some parts are in transit at the moment. It will still be a few months for completion, but I'm in no hurry. I initially came across the Datsun Spirit web site (Eiji Hosomi) after reading about his car on Auszcar. I sent some emails and things started to progress, I ran him for a chat. I liked what he had to say and this gave me a starting point for the new engine. This is the plan. L28 N42 block. Forged 88mm short skirt 29mm pin height pistons. Forged "H" beam 139.5mm conrods with std L28 crank. (This gives a 1.77:1 rod/stroke ratio). BHJ Damper with lightened 12lb Forged Chromoly flywheel and 240mm Carbon/Kevlar clutch. Block will be ultrasonic tested, oil gallery plugs drilled and tapped, all machine surfaces radiused and block interior smoothed. (usual stuff). All rotating assembly balanced and blue-printed. N42 Head. Polished /ported/ Chambers welded. (James Flett.) Datsun Spirit Proprietary camshaft. ( .560" lift -300 Duration ) Big Valves ( Longer for the high lift cam) Rockers, valve springs and chromoly spring retainers. Kameari twin idler gear. Kameari timing gear. Kameari hi-volume oil pump. Kameari Damper bolt. ARP Mains, Head and crank bolts. Mallory Unilite Distributor Mallory Coil MSD leads made for the Distributor This will give you an idea of my plans. As it progresses I will post some pictures. Cheers David.

I agree with Peter. There are always options on body shape. I'm still running modified but original L26 engine and gearbox, suspension etc in my 1976 260z. Only the body from the windows down has changed. It's not every bodies cup of tea, but's it's what I wanted at the time. Sometimes I think that I should have left the body standard but then I go for a drive and I know that this is the car I enjoy driving. I do have a good standard 280zx with an F54/P90 that will stay original. David.

Hi Gav, I have one that I took out .Give me an address and I will post tomorrow morning. David ph: 0400202678

Hi G, If these are the OER 45mm from RHD Japan, can you let me know what the quality is like, and did you have them jetted to your specs before being posted. Cheers David.

Gav, Just a little tip. Before trying to remove the valve springs, give the spring retainer a tap with a nylon hammer. The spring retainers and collets can lock together after being on an engine for an extended period of time and with without giving them a gentle tap to loosen them it is easy to bend your compressor. Also a magnet is great for removing the collets without dropping them once the spring is compressed. Cheers David

Hi Dad, I think you are right. The sensor up front is the anti lock brake wheel speed sensor. I don't know what vehicle it is off though. David.

Hi Guys, Just a bit more info on BHJ harmonic Dampers. It was recommended from Chris at BHJ Dynamics that a better damper for my application would be the one listed below instead of my first choice.. As you will see the prices are in New Zealand Dollars as Barry Manon at Manon Racing Products is the local distributor. Exchange rate with New Zealand is better and freight is only $35.00nzd. They are both the same price for alloy or steel. Damper...NIS-IB240-280Z-6 (steel), NIS-IB240-280Z-6-C (aluminium): $450nzd Power steering pulley....NIS-240-280-PSP: $170nzd Installation kit....HD-1: $135nzd Kit metric conversion....HD-1-AM16-1.5: $20nzd This damper has the option of adding the extra power steering pulley to the front if running in a 280zx. I have ordered one just in case. The installation kit and the metric thread conversion is always handy for the tool box. Cheers David

Hi Dat2kman, Thanks for the quick reply. I have sent emails off to both Ross and ATI. On their websites neither had listed a performance twin pulley to be used with Air-Con. I'll wait for their replies. The posted picture is the BHJ Street Performance Special Two Pulley L series Datsun Harmonic Balancer. It states on the page that it was Developed in co-ordination with Rebello Racing. I should have mentioned that I was talking about the street one, not racing one. You were right on the money about the price. $470.00 plus a couple hundred postage,then the conversion. Thanks for the advise about the full length keyway and longer bolt. I think I saw a Kameari bolt on the Otomoto website that was guaranteed not to come loose. Cheers David.

Hello Guys, I am in the process of building a L28 engine, and because it will be a very capable street engine running Air Conditioning, I have been looking at various types of Harmonic Balancers that will handle high revs and have twin pulleys. Most OEM harmonic balancers are recommended at 6500 rpm max. I know we all rev them higher occasionally but I want long- term reliability. The best one that I have found is from BHJ Dynamics, part # NIS-REB-6-SP2. This was developed with input from Dave Rebello. My question is. What Harmonic Balancer are you using for your Datsun 6 if you have air-con and you are using it for a daily with Hill-climbs, sprints, etc thrown in and reving above 7000 rpm occasionally. Also would the high revs be detrimental to the pulley on the air-con. Cheers David

Hi Gav, Just started pulling down my L28 yesterday. The factory welch plugs have a sealant on them. Use your hammer and punch or a screw driver and hit on one side in the recess. The plug is tight so hit a few times if needed. When it starts to turn use pliers or just lever it out. David

Hi, As Gav suggested check out the Datsun Spirit web site. I have ordered parts from Eiji and the pistons are being made now. I am using an N42 block with N42 head. 88mm forged short skirt pistons with 29mm pin height. 139.5 mm long rods. Pistons and rods are half the weight of the originals. 45mm inlet and 36.5mm exhaust valves which can be used with the original seats and are longer in the stem for a high lift cam to keep the rocker geometry respectable. I went this way because the pistons and rods complement each other. He also has pistons with a shorter height if you want to run with a Diesel crank. The head work will be done by James at MIA Engines in Sydney. I intend using the motor for street and occasional hill climbs and sprints when I move back east at the end of the year. Good luck with your build. David

Hi, by British SU I presume that you mean 2". Can yo tell me what needles you are using. David

Hi Gav, "sunroof hole". There has to be a joke about the sun shining out of your sunroof hole, but I won't go there. Sorry mate. Just couldn't resist. David.

Hi Gav, I liked the Google Map. I have never tried this. It was nice to be able to walk down the street and look into peoples back yard. Narrow streets not good for street racing though. Too many poles on the sides. On the second link, it was nice to hear that the Japanese thought what the heck lets enter the Australian rally, and then they won. But yes I agree it was only the American market mentioned. Back in the 70's with the fuel shortage did you see the sign saying $3.00 purchase of fuel only per person. David.

Apologies if this one has been posted. History of the Zed. Nissan Datsun Z "Fairlady Z" http://youtu.be/XVnSXHnll88

Hi Guys, I just finished watching this on You Tube. Hope you enjoy it as much as I did. http://youtu.be/AxvsRlHuEo8 David.

[table] [tr] [td] R180 Limited Slip Differential Center Automatic Torque Biasing (ATB) differential to fit Nissan/Datsun R180 diffs. Suits Datsun 1600, 240k, Z cars, Nissan Skyline (early models), and 720 utes. [/td][/tr] [tr] [td] The ATB style differential is one of the best LSD's available. It powers both drive wheels under all conditions. With an ordinary open differential, standard on most cars, a lot of horse power is wasted during wheelspin under acceleration. This happens because the open differential shifts power to the wheel with less grip (along the path of least resistance). The ATB differential, however, does just the opposite. It senses which wheel has the better grip, and biases the power to that wheel. It does this smoothly and constantly, and without ever completely removing power from the other wheel. In (drag-race) straight-line acceleration runs, this results in a close to ideal 50/50 power split to both drive wheels, resulting in essentially twice the grip of an ordinary open differential. During cornering, while accelerating out of a turn, the ATB differential biases power to the outside wheel, reducing inside-wheel spin. This allows the driver to begin accelerating earlier, exiting the corner at a higher speed. The diff also controls loss of traction when the front wheels are on slippery surfaces such as mud, snow and ice, providing the appropriate biased traction needed to overcome these adverse conditions. The ATB differential provides constant and infinitely variable drive. Power is transferred automatically without the use of normal friction pads or plates seen in other limited-slip designs. It is extremely strong and durable and since it is gear operated, it has no plates or clutches that can wear out and need costly replacement. The differential unique design offers maximum traction, improves handling and steering, and puts the power where it is needed most. It is great for street driving or racing. Because it behaves like an open differential during ordinary driving, you will have trouble telling it's there until pushing the car to its limits. Frequently Asked Questions Q. How much power can the differential handle? A. The internal spiral gears and components are identical to those fitted into the GT3 Porsche model which can handle in excess of 350hp. Q. What diff housing does the center fit? A. The differential center will bolt into the Nissan/Datsun R180 housing (using the existing ring and pinion gear). It accepts the bolt in style stub axles. (Call for information on the cir-clip snap in stub axles). The R180 differential can be found in Datsun 240Ks, early Skylines, Z cars, the front of 720 utes, and some others. Q. Will the R180 diff bolt into a Datsun 1600 with out any mods? A. Yes, but you must use the R180 half shafts as the standard halfshafts on a 1600 (R160 diff) will not fit an R180 diff. Q. Can I bolt the center in myself? A. The diff center will bolt in but the diff will need to be set up by a professional as the crown wheel to pinion gear preload needs to be set up precisely. We also recommend replacing all the bearings while the diff is apart. Fitment of the diff center and alignment by a diff specialist should cost around $150-200 not including new bearings. Q. What oil should I use? A. We recommend Penzoil LSD 90 grade oil. http://members.optushome.com.au/amaxeng/five10/internal.jpg[/img] Q. How does the diff work? A. The diff is reasonably complicated to explain but is very simple in the way it works. The center is made up up a series of spiral gears that are cut in opposite directions. The angle on the gears allows the diff to load up and transfer power to the opposite wheel. The gears work against one and other automatically torque biasing the power to both wheels. Q. Will it wear or need any maintenance? A. Because the diff uses gears instead of friction pads or plates, the diff has virtually no wear. As long as the diff is setup correctly and the fluid level maintained the diff center should not need any maintaince at all. NOTE: Center fits R180 ring gear with the 115mm carrier. 110mm carrier ring gears are common in earlier diffs. Later model diffs are recognisable by a large K cast in the top of the diff housing but its best to check the carrier size (by removing the back plate and measuring with calipers) to confirm this. Center accepts bolt in style stub axle half shafts only. For circlip snap in style please call. $1450 AUS dollars + GST & Shipping For more information or for a shipping quotation email or call Max on 0418 485 460 Amax Engineering Donvale Victoria, Australia 3111 Phone Max: 0418 485 460 amaxeng@optushome.com.au [/td][/tr][/table]

Hi Gav, If the hole is not centred this can cause problems with the card fouling on the circlip. The pictures showw that the hole is off centre. Cut the hole slightly bigger than the length of the circlip and make sure it is centred. Install the clip fully and push on. Also use your pliers and compress the circlip so it has tension to hold it on. David

If you are running the standard mechanical fuel pump a small pinhole in the diaphram will allow the vehicle to operate normally at lower revs but at higher continuous revs will starve for fuel if it can't keep the volume up to the carb. Also check for a blocked fuel filter . David