Enzo

Sorry. The leads were made for this dizzy. Not interested in separating the items. David

Hi Guys, I have for sale the following unused items which I purchased from Datsun Spirit in the USA for my new engine. Mallory Unilite distributor, Mallory Promaster coil and MSD leads made by Eiji. $725 includes postage. David "Sorry, Will not sell separately"

Watched "The Jungle Book" last night. Brought back memories of when I read the book as a kid. CGI was awesome. It was fun trying to work out who the actors were who did the voice overs. The kid that played the lead roll was great and so natural. A good movie to kick back and just relax.

For the record: 260z sport 2 seater -7/76 RS30-010258.

Steady on Jason. No you can't have it back. Looks at treat. Well done.

Oh yeah, right. I see it now in the background.

"Phone Penrite, a good Aussie company that makes a damm good product. I think that you may find that their current GL-5 has been formulated not to damage brass or anything else" From Richard. Hi Richard, You are right. I got on to the Penrite chat line and the guy says the new 80W-90 mineral gearoil (GL-5/GL-6 ) is formulated to be gentle on yellow metals. David.

Hi Lurch, Brass syncros. That's why I was hesitant about GL5 rated oil. I noticed on the bottom of the article the statement about Nissan. As Quoted: Warning: If Nissan service manual asks for API GL-4 rated oil than you have to use API GL-4 oil. GL-5 oil is not made to replace GL-4. DO NOT USE GL-5, it will destroy your transmission.

Hi Lurch, Thanks for the reply. I have just reassembled the gearbox and will be fitting it this weekend. I grabbed some Penrite gearoil from supercheap using the computerised selection device and it recommended 80w-90 mineral gear oil. When I got home I had a look through the manual and it recommended a GL-4 oil. The penrite was GL5-GL6. From what I have read, the GL5 or higher will eat out the syncros on older gearboxes over time. GL4 was the recommended oil for Datsun boxes. So I thought that I would throw it out to see what people were using. I was hoping that you were browsing. Thanks for the advice. David.

Hi Guys, What gearbox oils are being used for 5 speed gearboxes. The manual I have recommends a GL-4 rating as the GL-5 will eat syncros. ( GL-4 for the gearbox / GL-5 for the diff.) But I was looking at Penrite oils and they recommend a GL-5 oil. Redline recommend GL-4 ( MT-90 ). So. The question is: What are you guys using and are you having any problems. David.

Why is the coil fitted onto the block. It may be getting too hot as excess heat soaks from the block. Should be mounted on the body. Just a thought. David.

Hi Gav, Hope you can get the kit. I have had one for about 10 years. Got mine back when they were called the Henrob 2000. They are low flow and use the same amount of acetylene as oxygen so they run out at the same time unlike CIG kits. You can weld aluminium and also repair cast iron. Great kit. Just need to use a glove as your hand is close to the flame. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you. David

Hi Guys, I have a camshaft that I am having trouble identifying. Any help would be appreciated. Ground on a CWC shaft and stamped ( CM 603D ). Anyone recognise the numbers and know who the supplier is.. Cheers David.

Another thank you to Phil. I also purchased the Rhino tools 12 piece JIS screwdriver set. $48.00 plus $10.00 postage. Excellent product. Regards David.

Hi Sandy, I have a 2600cc with E88 head, flat top Pistons. Less than 3000kms that I have removed from my 260z. I'm replacing it with a L28. After $2500. But I'm in Kalgoorlie WA. Ph: 0400202678

Hi George, I use both Projecta and Ctek. My Projecta will also charge Calcium batteries. The Ctek will also charge gel batteries which I have in the offroad buggy. David

Hello, I ended up using (No.1 gasket sealant) as it is hard setting and will handle up to 400 degrees. You should be able to buy from your local auto store. Happy motoring. David. http://www.loctite.com.au/3320_AUE_HTML.htm?nodeid=8802635415553 Devcon is a product that I have used in the past for other jobs (non-automotive) but have now stopped using it. Armagrout is better. Devcon has a shelf life. When it gets too old it will still mix and go hard as it should. But after a month or so it starts to go soft in the middle.

Hi Gav, There is an aerosol can that can be bought from Bunnings and other stores. It's a can of Freeze and lubricant. Supposedly the freeze cracks the rust so the lubricant can wick into the joint allowing the nut to be removed. Sorry, but I can't remember what it's called. David.

Nice item but a waste of money as the factory rockers are good quality. $599 usd for 12x for L6, plus Aussie dollar conversion rate, plus freight, plus any Duty taxes. That's my 2 cents worth. Spend the money else where on your car. David

Hi, Looking at the first picture the block has been decked. It looks like the piston is sticking out of the top of the block. Is the piston flush with the deck or as the picture seems to indicate that it is sticking out a bit. Curious. David

Lots in Brisbane. Let your fingers do the walking. (Yellow Pages) Let them have a look at the locks and they should advise you if the locks are worth rekeying. Bear in mind that a worn lock may allow other keys to work as well. The wafers cut into the soft metal housing over time, especially if it has been used with a badly cut key. That's why when in the business I would advise customers again getting keys cut at Hardware stores such as Bunnings. With the volume of keys that they cut, the cutting wheels wear and the tolerances on the key are not correct. Then if you copy off a badly cut key the tolerances get worse causing wear in the lock. And so it goes on. Same with all locks. A badly cut key may not work in a house lock because the tolerances are tighter and the components are made of brass. With a car lock it is mostly die-cast soft metal to keep the price down. Later model cars have better design and quality locks than our classics. David.

Hi Guys, As a retired Locksmith of 30 odd years I can't give a definitive answer as to why the ignition lock was different to the doors. The ignition lock had a single sided key with pin tumblers in the cylinder. These were sturdier and didn't wear out as quick as the flat wafers in the door locks. It may have been for better security because there was less of a likelihood of another key working in the ignition lock than in the door locks with their flat wafer design. By the way. A lot of car locks wear out quicker these days because of all of the extra weight and crap hanging off key rings. The extra weight tends to wear the soft metal inside the lock that holds the key in the correct position. The more it wears the more the key will tend to catch or not turn correctly. When this happens replace with new locks, not crap from the wrecking yard. The ignition internal cylinder can be replaced with another model cylinder to take the double sided key and then matched to the doors. I have one key that does all my locks on the 260z. With the alarm and central locking on my car, having the original pin tumbler single sided key was not necessary. Hope this helps David.

Hi Tim, Standard Sprocket has 3x holes for adjustment. As mentioned I think that they are 4 degrees apart. Follow the manuals advice. Through the gear at the top you have to line up the marks to the dot. By changing to a different hole this moves the line offset from the dot to either retard or advance the cam depending on which hole you use. First off though make sure that the crank is lined up at TDC and that the cam is correctly aligned to the mark just to make sure you are not one tooth out of alignment. All this is explained in the manual. If you haven't got one you should get one off the internet. David.

Oldmate, For a street engine the original cam sprocket will be fine. The adjustable cam sprockets won't make the job easier because you will need a dial gauge to measure valve lift. The original cam sprocket has three holes which allow for chain stretch but if the chain and guides are in good condition you can advance or retard the cam for more low down torque or top end performance. The holes are 4 degrees apart. Mind you, the difference will hardly be noticed but the engine will like it one way better than the other. I would suggest trying this instead of wasting money on adjustable cam sprockets. If it was a race engine or a high performance street engine, I would say the adjustable cam sprocket can be beneficial for the precise cam timing of the engine. In these circumstances you have to bear in mind the all engine components have to be working in tune with each other for maximum efficiency. Carbies, distributor, cam timing, valve timing, etc. Hope this helps. David.

Suete que tengo un senito del hombre humor.