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YosemiteZed last won the day on February 1

YosemiteZed had the most liked content!

About YosemiteZed

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 05/30/1951

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  • Location
    Mid North Coast,NSW
  • Tagline
    Rust never Sleeps

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  1. Gumtree sale at Port Macquarie MNC 260z 2seater looks neat but no price https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/port-macquarie/cars-vans-utes/datsun-260z/1221482016
  2. Contact gav i gave him part cds from an official Nissan dealership for Australian s30 models and 280zx that can be accessed by contributing members i am sure you will fit the criteria cheers phil
  3. Hi jeff this is necessary if you a running of an ecu and still want the original tacho but in your case it does not apply I have edited the post to include this above but some still do the tacho upgrade to suit the 280zx dizzy/240,260 tacho that depends on how you want your dizzy to perform the extra pc board mod gives the tacho smooth signal and therefore the needle is responding better if you do not want this performance then you leave the series induction coil in circuit with an added 2.2kOhm/1watt resistor soldered into the circuit to protect the tacho and try to smooth the needle what you have to do is look and see if the induction coil on the tacho is still being utilised using your meter on ohmns to check the circuit from the connections under the dash and back to the dizzy.
  4. Hi jeff as stated in rly240 post the series connection through the induction coil was the original method but if the tacho has had the 280zx mod then the internals of the tacho could have ad the extra mod by inserting a pc board which made the induction setup obsolete. this mod allows better response and only requirers the pulse from the module if that has been done cooections to the tacho is a positive ,negative and pulse with the series induction coil not connection and the wiring to it opened circuited therefore no return circuit to the dizzy was required cheers phil
  5. Hi jeff you mentioned that a 280zx dizzy has been installed this is not a straight c/over there is plenty of info on line and in posts on the forum for the configuration and modification required Just lookup 280zx distributer upgrade to 240z cheers phil
  6. Well After watching HomeBuiltJeff and recovered from the shock of the $300 valve cost of part replacement I ventured into my cave and got a heater valve to see what can be done Went on the forum to see if this has been covered before and could not find any info on repairing but plenty on leaking valves So the quest begun pic 1 The leaking Valve pic 2 Tools I used for repair Pic 3 the valve assembly with lever pin that has to be removed first pic 4 Using a small blade screwdriver I carefully prised the brass tabs up enough to release it from the valve frame pic5 released the valve cock from the frame pic 6 bent the brass tabs back a little bit further and with a 8mm bolt up the tube end gently tapped the valve seal mechanism out When you look at the tube you will see indentations on the tube this is where the bottom of the outer seal sits and to release the parts you need to remove ONLY the back circlip,with that removed the valve drive stem can be dismantled and the old seals can be removed and sidelined for reference. pic 7 & 8 show you that there is an o ring hidden in the middle white plastic part that is one of the main leaking points that needs to be replaced pic 9 shows the disassembled valve stem and cock, the replacement parts were some normal metric o rings and a hot water tap valve from my cave via bunnings plumbing parts,be sure that the inner hole of the tap valve is suitable size to the heater stem rod pic 10 & 11 shows the the bakelite guide and a glued small o ring to duplicate the original recessed seal and centre the guide I glued this oring to the seal with 406 and that allowed the guide to be sealed centrally to the brass valve tube and pressured the circlip back on the stem behind the correct brass washer and now the front seal was complete pic 13 shows the rear seals I put the on the stem and then ensured the small centre seal was pressed back fully into is plastic to complete the shaft seal I then reseated the valve assembly back into the tube with the new o ring ensuring that the brass washer was sitting on the tubes locating indentations with that complete I used the g clamp ,socket over the stem and wood to the tube bottom to slightly press the assembly to its correct location in the tube and slightly bent the to tabs slightly to hold the valve assembly into its tube Relocated the tube back into its position in the frame and with a punch and small tab hammer bend the tabs back over as in pic 3 tested the valve and it was a success so don't toss the valves all is not lost Cheers PHIL
  7. Hi jeff I could not see the rubber bonnet blocks these protect the paint on the side of the bonnet and fenders and locate your bonnet when opening and closing and any movement when driving they attach to the side fender bolts there are four of them in total and there are some on eBay at the moment if you require them i think they might be a good investment cheers phil
  8. Hi jeff sirpent did a repair of the valve https://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/6799-air-con-refurbishment-heater-fan-upgrade/ this might help cheers phil
  9. Hi gav open the vise jaws about 10mm put the steel collet of the distributer on top of the vise jaws only while someone is holding onto th distributer or have something supporting the distributer casing using your pin punch bang the pin out the pin is probably bent as the collet and washer is too tight for the pin hole alignment file the back end of the steel collet a fraction near the casing reassemble and should free up the distributer drive i had a similar problem on mine after rebushing and assembly cheers phil
  10. Sirpent did a article on repair of the valve look it up it might help cheers phil
  11. Hi Check that the flasher unit for the indicator is suitable for leds If it is the original then it is designed for filament bulbs as it is current driven Whereas the leds use very low currents If that is the issue then c/over the indicator can to suit leds Cheers Phil
  12. Hi I agree with dat2kman the metrinich are v/good and yes they apply pressure on the flats of th heads I have open ended with ring spanner and they have got me out of trouble many times when the nuts have been rounded over and my friend has the 1/2 drive socket set which I am envious of I think blackwoods still sell them Cheers Phil
  13. Hi The vinyl diamond pattern for the 260z 2+2 was only in the 74/75 earlier models August 75 to the end production had carpet The vinyl diamond pattern was a lot smaller(about 1/2 the size ) than what was in the 240 Cheers Phil
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