Enzo

Slowly getting the FiTech EFI fitted. Spent the day polishing the lettering on the powder coated valve cover and the alloy tube for the spark plug leads. Fuel command centre is now mounted properly and fuel line brackets fitted. The low profile Spectre air hat fits nicely and attaches to the carbon fibre air cleaner with a rubber joiner off a Holden Commodore. I also had to stuff around and find a radiator cap that would seal properly. Two alloy radiators and both caps were faulty. Only have to complete some wiring and should be ready for a start maybe next weekend if time permits. Work schedule has been pretty hectic for the last couple of months and also trying to get my 1984 Suzuki Hatch finished. David.

Hi, If the cam bolt comes loose this will cause the pin to fail. I would suggest that you have a problem with the bolt rather than the pin. The pin is only for locating the sprocket. Kameari make a bolt that supposedly with not come loose. But a standard bolt does the trick in thousands of other Datsuns. As Jason suggests make sure you have the fuel pump eccentric drive or a large washer to spread the load and use the correct bolt tension. David

Real men building an engine. Not a pair of rubber gloves in sight. Damn the oil and dirt. Full steam ahead. They probably have a spittoon in the corner. Great video with a catchy tune. Me likey.

Ok. The expansion tank is above the fuel filler neck so you would have fuel coming out before it got anywhere near the expansion tank. The middle fitting on the carbon canister should be to the manifold vacuum on the original SU/Hitachi balance tube. It looks like you have it fitted to the fuel return line. If this is the case when you overfilled the tank and parked it nose down hill the fuel would have flowed through the pipe to the vacuum canister. Yes the smallest pipe (furthest from the engine) is the vent outlet back to the expansion tank. The fuel return line that appears to be hocked up to the carbon canister can be blocked off or you can have a return line from the carbs plumbed into it. Your choice. If the carbs are running fine just block it off. Hope this helps. Bit hard to trace your lines from the pictures. David.

Fuel should not come out of the Carbon Canister. It is connected to a line that runs back to the top of the Expansion tank . (Highest point of the system). This should only have fume. Have you had the canister disconnected and attached it to the fuel tank return line by mistake. The 260z has 3x lines running back to the rear: Fuel Line: Fuel return line and the Fuel hose from the canister to the top of the expansion tank. Haynes Manual Page 43 . ( Chapter 3 Carburation: Fuel and exhaust system). Beware of fire if the fuel leak continues. Do not drive till sorted. David.

"Hi I'd be interested in a 240z one if they are able make them also. Cheers Andrew" Andrew, I won't be doing any other ID plates as the cost for the artwork adds up. Most people only want something that looks original. I needed one for my 260z and got a few extras made just in case I could recoup some of the cost. In the first posting you can see all of the paint has rubbed off mine leaving only the stamped numbers. As I stated, the replacements are NON ORIGINAL. I'm also not sure of different model sizes. Mine was 6x8cm. Cheers David. Just realised that the RS30 and L26 was left off in the stamped number section when my plates were made. I hadn't noticed. I will have to get them remade. ( Feel a bit like an idiot ).

Hi Guys, The company I am dealing with is the same one that did the gearknob inserts. They can only do the laser etched plate like the picture. This was the third attempt as they were working off a picture that I supplied and had to try and adjust the thickness of the writing so it stood out ok. There are companies in Australia and America that do the painted version on ebay. I had ordered one from Australia last year because they said that they were a faithful reproduction but they were 10x8 cm where my plate was 6x8cm so I returned it. I'm happy with what they did to the laser plate as my car is not original. Also since the engine change I can restamp with the correct number. Have a good weekend Guys. Regards David.

Well Done. We all just learnt heaps. Now go and have some fun.

I think Roger has sorted it out. It looks nice and clean inside the Distributor and when enlarged it looks like the screws on the sides have been removed. You said it came off an engine that didn't work. I would say someone disassembled the distributor and just reassembled it with the Rotor shaft assembly facing the wrong way. Either pull it apart to reassemble correctly or change the leads to suit if you want it running quickly. Good call Roger.

Ok, The picture of the underside of the rotor button shows only a piece of metal on one side. The rotors usually have a metal section that presses into the button with a piece coming up on both sides and this locks the button in place. Does yours fit on facing either direction. The side with the missing piece should line up with the flat on the shaft. If it goes on both ways it should be replaced. I will post a picture shortly.

Ok. The crank appears to be about 5 degrees off TDC, which means that the pulley should not be aligned at the notch. Which hole is the sprocket fitted to. Should be on No1 if your chain is new. Other holes are for stretched chains to bring everything back into alignment. Start from scratch. Rotate the engine by hand to align the pulley at TDC. While doing this insert your finger into the No1 spark plug hole to feel the compression as you approach TDC. This will ensure that you are on the compression stroke. (Not 180 degrees out). If you have the valve cover off make sure the inlet and exhaust lobes of the cam on the No1 cylinder are pointing up at 10 and 2 o'clock.(Away from the piston). If the cam is correct and the Crank is correct, look to see were the distributor button is pointing. It should point to the front slightly to the left of the cap hold down clamp. If it is still 180 degrees out (facing to the rear) drop the oil pump and rotate the spindle and reinsert. You may have to do this a couple of times till the shaft looks like the picture you have with the small half moon to the front. Once aligned refit the distributor and all should line up. Rotate the engine by hand and double check. If all is good, fire it up and set your timing. Good Luck and double check everything. David.

Hi, If it's back firing through the exhaust, check that you have the plug leads on correctly in the distributor cap and that the direction of rotation is correct (anti-clockwise). Firing order 153624. Just noticed on your pictures from Feb 2016 that the distributor button is 180 degrees out. Should be facing to the front. I presume that the engine is on top dead centre.

Good investment. Everything goes up with time. If I had spare cash I would be doing the same.

Hello Guys, My 1976 260z ID Plate has had 40 years of wear and tear, and as such the paint has worn off leaving only the chassis and engine numbers which were stamped on. I have had a replacement plate made which is laser etched which should last for the next 40 years. This is NON ORIGINAL. The originals were painted. I have had a few spares made, so if anyone is after a replacement plate they are $50 posted. I can stamp them if required. ( SIZE is 6x8cm ) Regards David (Enzo)

Hi Brent, I have read your post on Hybrid Z and I think we had talked about a month or so ago. I got delayed on my installation. We talked about drilling the manifold under the throttle body for the PCV fitting. I also drilled and tapped above the PCV for a vacuum fitting so I wouldn't have to use the block on the front runner. It was your idea to use the return line for the vent because of the fuel exiting the FCC instead of just fumes. Cheers for that. Roadrider. I did have a 390 Holley fitted to the Arizona Z manifold when on my L26 engine. It ran well but I want to put the car on the market later in the year and a FiTech 4 barrel throttle body will make the car more user friendly to someone with limited experience with a car with carbies. Some people have no idea about using a choke to start (Hitachi carbs) or tuning. With the self tune FiTech system it is get in and drive. David.

Hi Guys, With all of the different conversions that people are doing to their Zed cars, I thought that I would post a couple of pictures of a work in progress at the moment. A bit unconventional and different. I have removed the L26 from my 260Z and replaced it with an L28 that I had in a 280zx. The engine had been rebuilt by the previous owner some years ago and had been only been used for a short time before storing the car. I bought it with the intension of putting it back on the road, but as usual with projects I got side-lined with other things. So eventually it got fitted to the 260z. It had flat top pistons but had a P90 head. It ran really well with the original EFI with good economy but not a lot of get up and go. I sold the P90 head to a club member and to up the compression ratio I rebuilt a N42 head that I had spare. New 72 degree cam, rockers , springs and lash pads, that I had purchased from Stewart Wilkins a few years earlier. I had also been redoing some of the electrics adding fuse blocks and relays. Anyway I purchase a FiTech 40003 4 barrel throttle body from America to go with the Arizona Z 4 barrel inlet manifold that I already had. Since I didn't want to modify the fuel tank for efi I also purchase the FiTech Fuel Command Centre from a company in NSW. The original low pressure fuel pump supplies full to the FCC ( in the engine bay) and then the internal high pressure pump supplies the throttle body at 58psi. This reservoir holds about 1.5 litres. Because the throttle body is a non return fuel line system, I used the original fuel return line to the tank for the FCC vent line. The FCC must be vented. ( This is a mandatory requirement for safety as stated by FiTech ). I have been working on this in my spare time and is a work in progress. I snapped these pictures today, but due to work commitments and a wedding in NSW next weekend it will be at least 3 weeks before I get to touch the car again. I will post a video for those interested when I have got it finished. Costs so far were about $1400 for the FiTech 40003 throttle body delivered from USA and about $750 for the Fuel command Centre from NSW. I already had the Arizona Z manifold. David (Enzo)

Hi Gav, I will order some more today. Regards David

Nice

Eye Candy. Stop posting pictures Lurch. I can't take it anymore. Starting to turn green. Ahhhh!!!!!!!!

I have never used silicon paste but I learnt a few things so I thought that I would share since we all play with the wiring at some time. I'm a notorious fiddler. David