Enzo

Sounds like your just running rich if the plugs are carboning up at idle. You state that if you wind down any further the car loses power. Dial it back to lean off at idle. What needles are you running. You should be able to get a good idle regardless of the needle as long as it is not adjusted out too far. Make sure both needles are installed to the correct height in the damper and back the dial off to 1-2 turns out. A vacuum guage is always a handy tool when setting idles. Adjust the needles to give the highest vacuum reading. As the revs increase, back off the idle screw and keep adjusting the needle heights for the highest vacuum. At your chosen idle speed you should have the best vacuum reading. Give it a try. David

If your not wanting original just go to the mower shop and get the yellow fuel line. They have various sizes and it is nice and flexible. Cheers David.

Toolbox covers and setup for speakers behind the seats?

The wheel studs are not supposed to take the load, that's what the hub is designed for. With only the studs you have the chance of shearing them off with loads on the wheel. Dangerous on the road, suicidal on the race track. Time for a rethink Richard. Play safe. Regards David.

Hi Richard, Just looking at the wheel spacers and realised that they are not hub centric. No support for the wheel that I can see. Only the studs for support. Is this just temporary to measure wheel offsets or a miscalculation. I have been watching the build with interest. Regards David

3 minutes of engine building Japanese style. Enjoy David

Where is Australua

Man. You learn something new everyday. Thank you heaps for posting that. I didn't know that if you grind off around the edges that will stop rust forever. I think he has been sniffing his mineral spirits. I'm going to make a foam car now and then I can also use it as a boat when fishing. Maybe it won't sink. Cheers Jeff. Gave me a good laugh to finish the day off. David.

Hi guys, As I stated earlier in the post I have made a stainless steel gearnob that weighs 0.50 kg because I had cut the gearstick shorter. The extra weight makes the changes easier. I decided to give it a better feel with a timber knob. I didn't have a piece of timber the right size so I laminated two pieces. My favourite timber is Tasmanian blackwood. Then I used a hole saw and cut out the centre and used 5 minute Arildite to glue it to the stainless steel. Then it was just a bit of time to turn it down in the lathe and sand. A couple of coats of Tru Oil and it's done.

Damn those small Japanese production line workers and their tiny hands. (Just Joking !!)

Rudi, I don't know you , but you are the man. What a brilliant shed. It's a piece of art in itself and I am jealous as hell. I can see that you will be spending too much time in there once completed. Keep up the good work and most of all, be proud of your achievement. It will look great once it has a Zed in residence. Regards David

Hi Guys, Just got off HybridZ and a guy is selling kits to upgrade you Mikuni 44 carbs with new plated hardware. He is "ryant67" If you are interested, check it out. David. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/127426-mikuni-44-phh-plated-hardware-kits/

A picture is worth a thousand words.

Hi George, The car is looking great. Keep up the good work. Instead of a baking oven, get a work light platform with the 100 watt halogen lights. Standard one from Bunnings will do the trick. (Less than $100). They put out great heat. Good for working in the garage in winter and heating up objects. I recently used mine to heat up an engine block after I had painted the insides with red Glyptol paint. I placed the light close to the block and couldn't believe how hot it got. Baked the paint nicely. Regards David. 2 Light stand from Bunnings. Bit hard to see, but you will get the idea.

Hi Guys, A couple of pictures with the intalled insert. The plastic chrome was stuffed so I peeled the remainder off and primed and coated with chrome paint. I made the mistake of using a clear coat which made it look like aluminium. The wood was oiled over a couple of weeks to close up the gaps as the wood expanded then finished with Birchwood Casey "true oil" which is used on rifle stocks and dries hard. This can be left glossy or rubbed with 0000 steel wool to get a dull finish. The insert was fitted using black silicone which when dry the excess can be rubbed off and it does not affect the resin in the insert of oiled finish on the wood. NOT ORIGINAL. But then neither is the insert. Regards David.

The screws are designed so the heads snap off when tightened. When I was a Locksmith I used to use a masonary nail about 3 to 4 inches long as a punch. Being thin it fitted in easier. Tap the screw anti-clockwise to remove. Once the initial clamping force is broken, the screws come out easily. Replacement screws can be bought or just hacksaw a slot in the top and reuse.