oldmates260z

https://www.tradingpost.com.au/Automotive/Cars/Cars-For-Sale/1974-DATSUN-260Z-SPORTS-2D-COUPE/Greensborough/VIC/AdNumber=YN3BBK

If you do as good a job on the 2 seater as you did on the 2+2 it will make a great Zed....good luck on the build....I have a bit of a challenge with my 2000 resto..let's see who gets on to the All Jap day first

The following parts I bought over 10 years ago and never used so do not know their working condition: - evaporator section complete with coil, controls, valve and piping - compressor mounting bracket - compressor (but best you buy a new one) - various hoses and fittings (but you will need to buy new ones) - new receiver drier You still need the condenser coil It fits later model Zeds, 1976 onwards I think $350 ono Located in Outer Brisbane

Sounds like a fuel problem if squirting fuel gets it to fire.... Are you sure the L24 was running Ok before removed?

Looks like a great score....need more photos Where did you get onto this one? Have not seen it around

Did you go Pete? Some of the Sports guys go but I cannot do Saturday mornings...

But you still have the Zed.........

Well thanks Gav for passing on the contact from the lady that I bought me Zed from some 10 years ago. She had been looking for a while to try and find it and was very happy to see it was still well cared for..... She is sending me photos of her restoration work, cannot wait.

Have seen this issue before but I did not solve it myself. Strangely it was a auto (2+2). The clock worked but the tacho, fuel and temp did not. The guy she bought the car off said "they used to work". When I looked at the wiring diagram I remember seeing something that linked the power to the gauges with the auto kick down switch. I checked all that wiring and could not fault it She took it to a auto electrician who charged her $800 to fix it and said someone had messed up the wiring....................... Good luck...I would like to know the issue

I had issues with fumes coming in and I just added the below self adhesive from Clark rubber straight on top of the existing seal....problem gone

Apparently you can buy a new one off him for $650 not sure how much he charges for a re-graph

Assume you are asking for a 240? Not sure if they have the allowance Here is it for a 260

Oops....SWM.....Stewart Wilkins graphed it a few years ago

Could not find a thread here anywhere here but has anyone put up much about the various setups on the SU's? Firstly my 2+2 has what I thought was the standard setup but with a closer look it was not getting full throttle. The geometry appears wrong with the way in which the adjustable arm that goes down perpendicular to the linkage between the carbies. When I compared them to a mate's L20A Fairlady (import JDM-last photo) its setup was different in that the centre linkage was in board of the centreline of the shaft between the carbies. This resulted in the shaft rotating counter clockwise looking from the front of the car whereas mine rotates clockwise. Checking my son's 2+2 it rotated the same direction as mine. 1. Has anyone come across differing shaft rotation directions before? 2. Has anyone seen a instruction to set up the linkages

Significant progress... picked up a SWR SW mapped 280 dizzy....set it a 15 DBTC and goes like a rocket compared to how it went before....still more room for improvement though.....