nizm0zed

Ahh nice, Cheers for the quick reply. I can't believe I hadn't come across these before in my recent searches, These will do perfectly for me. the CV shafts will still be completely custom, But I was expecting that with my setup anyways. Just bought myself a set of these. http://www.futofab.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&category_id=21&flypage=flypage_images.tpl&product_id=166&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=81&vmcchk=1&Itemid=81

Did you ever have any success with this? Or any answer from the engineer? I'm in the same position, wanting to set up 5 stud on my rear axles. Ideally I'd get some custom billet axles made up to handle the gobs of torque I have to deal with but its looking stupidly expensive. Who did you get to weld up your old stubs and redrill them? anyone in Aus that is specialised in this for Datsuns? Also, open question for anyone, I have read elsewhere that the flange face (and stub axle) is heat treated and hardened, that welding them ruins this hardening and can lead to failure of the studs close to the edges where the material is thin. Is this accurate? If the flange is welded up surely it wouldn't be too much of an issue to redo the heat treating on the stub axle?

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Im keen for one of these kits too Edit. Does this replace the factory floor rails? one of mine is squished so i'll need to do something about that, Or would I be better using the lengthened floor rails first before fitting this kit like Lurch makes and installs?

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/34-1186 These things? Id probably see if you can get them through an ebay (US) store? Or maybe if someone has an order on the way you could get them sent along with it.

*converSion Nothing about that is plug and play. Im not going to look up part prices for you, you can do that yourself. However, I will tell you that youll need pretty much everything custom made. You (Or your fabricator) will also have a hell of a time getting a 3" turbo dump pipe to fit past the steering column. The RB's are easier in this regard for our market as the exhaust is on the other side of the block Ballpark though? Figures off the top of my head. $4000 for the engine + whatever you spend rebuilding/strengthening +$4K for the 6 speed box as d3c0y mentioned The engine management will set you back $1500 + Tuning (Probably another $500-$1000, maybe another $500 if they are installing it too) The exhaust system will probably cost you $500-600 alone The tailshaft will have to be custom made, could easily be $3-400 The diff 'should' put up with the abuse, but you'll want to put a good LSD in there, so may as well budget $2k there Brakes and suspension if not already done will easily chew up $5k of your budget The intercooler is easy though, a generic off the shelf core will fit, couple of bends and through the holes in radiator support, 3" pipes will 'just' fit Youll still need custom made cooler piping, could easily spend a few hundred there Labour will be a killer. Im going to assume because your asking that youll probably be paying a workshop to do this, nothing wrong with that at all, but it gets expensive. Most workshops are around $120p/h maybe more if they are well known for off the wall custom vehicles I would expect to drop $10k in labour/workshop costs alone, maybe even more if your really getting wild with it. Its definitely one of those areas that if you have the skills to do the work, or are willing to get in, learn and have a crack (and maybe still end up paying a pro) youll save some cash and gain priceless experience As you can see, it all adds up real fast, and this isnt even beginning to look at any bodywork issues or interior freshen up. I would strongly suggest strengthening the floor chassis rails with the full length bad dog rails (or similar) so budget for that too Engineering can be a long and painful hassle if you dont reserach and consult before hand, i would budget $2500 for your engineering costs, with a probable expectation you may need to spend half that again if you need to change things. not sure how it all works in VIC but I would think you probably need to consult with an engineer before hand anyway to come up with a plan to follow, maybe even submitting to VICRoads before beginning the project. you'll need to sus out whatever is applicable to you. So far the ballpark total is at a bit over $30k

Dont know how youve gone with it, but looking at your pics i'd start by removing the seat rails off the bottom first, then remove the seat adjuster wheel (Screw in the middle) That should let you get the side plastic cover off the hinge, hopefully finding bolts underneath to separate the upper and lower bolster. The covers are usually held on with a metal wire c clip staple thing, you can pull them open with a couple of pliers. There is also a peice of wire running along the bottom of the cushion, that matches the line in the cover on the seat base, this is held in place with the same staples, you have to dig into the foam a bit. The backrest will be a little trickier if you want to strip the cover off, but it should be a matter of gently popping the plastic trims off around the upper seat release, removing the C staples at the bottom and peeling it up the foam cushion, looks like its got the same wire strips running across the backrest, dig them out as you go. Ive never pulled those particular seats apart, but ive pulled apart several others, they are all usually made fairly similar.

Im on the fence about autonomous cars. I love having the freedom to go out for a drive and be in control, but lately after riding in the car with the wife driving, i would buy her an autonomous car in a heartbeat. The whole green thing is a bit of a myth though, while there is no tailpipe emission there is still powerplant emissions. While in theory a large scale powerplant is a lot more eficcient at generating power vs the environmental output, its still generating a similar level of emissions, now just localised to wherever the poweplant is. I vaugely recall seeing a sensible argument to Britian's comment about making all cars electric in the next 20 years, the comment was that while it was an excellent proposal they hadn't considered that to supply that large power demand they would need to build 20 new coal fire plants, at something like 15 million per plant. There is also obviously the environmental impact of manufacturing the batteries in particular, especially when you consider that lithium is a fairly rare element, with a huge depost currently located in Bolivia. Think about how rich the middle east got off oil, now think about that money in the hands of a corrupt Bolivian dictatorship. Electric jet engines are an exciting prospect and would most defintiely bring in the next era of air travel, but the required power output vs the weight moved to be airborne is in my opinion still a fair way off. For the budding entrepreneur however, getting in on the ground floor of a private EV shuttle service would be a literal gold mine for a very long time to come. Imagine owning a fleet of 500+ private taxi's before everyone sees the game and the govt. starts to legislate the whole mess.

Ive had a look down this road, this wont work for high torque load 3 phase items, they just trip the breakers. They can also run noisy (electrical) if your trying to run sensitive equipment off them, but thats usually not workshop equipment anyways. Being a hydraulic hoist, it is a reasonably simple process to replace the 3 phase motor with a single phase motor and pump. Ive got a bit of a summary on my thoughts about hoists in my build thread after finally getting mine. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/2179-nizm0zeds-coupe/?p=190380 https://tufflift.com.au/product/power-unit/ this is the way to do it

An SR20? how interesting. Do you know why they went with that instead of an RB? Chuck some pics up, id be interested to see the conversion. oh, and welcome

Yes, they are interchangeable. Funny story, got through my original rego with a fail on a broken passenger side door handle, so i swapped it with the drivers side for the reinspection. They cant fail anything they have already passed on a reinspection

your location says Panama? How hot and humid is it there? are you using an ethanol mix fuel? Reason I ask is ethanol fuels absorb moisture, particularly if its been sitting in a tank for a while, if the moisture content is high in the fuel it'll be more likely to 'boil' and creste a vapour lock in the lines. Is there possibly another way you can reduce underbonnet heat? Vents maybe? or drive with it popped open? (but still with the saftey latch) IIRC the 280zx had a fan setup to blow cool air over the injector rail, maybe something like that coud help. not sure on your location or what the local cops would think, but if you can consistently get it to fault, maybe try replicating but with the bonnet removed completely, temporarily of course. Im thinking that if it still does it with the bonnet off completely its going to be a deeper issue than underbonnet temps. Your heat wrapped rail is usually a good working solution, the extra heat shields are definitely not going to hurt the process either.