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nizm0zed

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About nizm0zed

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  • Birthday 02/09/1982

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    Canberra

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  1. Hello all, This is somewhat of an EOI at the moment, only because I haven't gotten around to planning the removal and storage/sale of my current engine and gearbox. It is definitely coming out, but if there is no want, I'll take my time (Could take me a year or two lol) So, Without more irrelevance, I have a RB25DE engine and R31 5 speed gearbox fitted to my 260z 2 seater chassis, I'd like to sell the whole thing as a complete package, because its just easier. The engine is stock, It does run, but it hasn't run in a few years at least. From memory it ran pretty well. I always int
  2. Im keen for one of these kits too Edit. Does this replace the factory floor rails? one of mine is squished so i'll need to do something about that, Or would I be better using the lengthened floor rails first before fitting this kit like Lurch makes and installs?
  3. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/34-1186 These things? Id probably see if you can get them through an ebay (US) store? Or maybe if someone has an order on the way you could get them sent along with it.
  4. *converSion Nothing about that is plug and play. Im not going to look up part prices for you, you can do that yourself. However, I will tell you that youll need pretty much everything custom made. You (Or your fabricator) will also have a hell of a time getting a 3" turbo dump pipe to fit past the steering column. The RB's are easier in this regard for our market as the exhaust is on the other side of the block Ballpark though? Figures off the top of my head. $4000 for the engine + whatever you spend rebuilding/strengthening +$4K for the 6 speed box as d3c0y mentioned The engine managemen
  5. Dont know how youve gone with it, but looking at your pics i'd start by removing the seat rails off the bottom first, then remove the seat adjuster wheel (Screw in the middle) That should let you get the side plastic cover off the hinge, hopefully finding bolts underneath to separate the upper and lower bolster. The covers are usually held on with a metal wire c clip staple thing, you can pull them open with a couple of pliers. There is also a peice of wire running along the bottom of the cushion, that matches the line in the cover on the seat base, this is held in place with the same staples,
  6. Im on the fence about autonomous cars. I love having the freedom to go out for a drive and be in control, but lately after riding in the car with the wife driving, i would buy her an autonomous car in a heartbeat. The whole green thing is a bit of a myth though, while there is no tailpipe emission there is still powerplant emissions. While in theory a large scale powerplant is a lot more eficcient at generating power vs the environmental output, its still generating a similar level of emissions, now just localised to wherever the poweplant is. I vaugely recall seeing a sensible argument to Bri
  7. Ive had a look down this road, this wont work for high torque load 3 phase items, they just trip the breakers. They can also run noisy (electrical) if your trying to run sensitive equipment off them, but thats usually not workshop equipment anyways. Being a hydraulic hoist, it is a reasonably simple process to replace the 3 phase motor with a single phase motor and pump. Ive got a bit of a summary on my thoughts about hoists in my build thread after finally getting mine. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/2179-nizm0zeds-coupe/?p=190380 https://tufflift.com.au/product/power-un
  8. An SR20? how interesting. Do you know why they went with that instead of an RB? Chuck some pics up, id be interested to see the conversion. oh, and welcome
  9. Yes, they are interchangeable. Funny story, got through my original rego with a fail on a broken passenger side door handle, so i swapped it with the drivers side for the reinspection. They cant fail anything they have already passed on a reinspection
  10. your location says Panama? How hot and humid is it there? are you using an ethanol mix fuel? Reason I ask is ethanol fuels absorb moisture, particularly if its been sitting in a tank for a while, if the moisture content is high in the fuel it'll be more likely to 'boil' and creste a vapour lock in the lines. Is there possibly another way you can reduce underbonnet heat? Vents maybe? or drive with it popped open? (but still with the saftey latch) IIRC the 280zx had a fan setup to blow cool air over the injector rail, maybe something like that coud help. not sure on your location or what the lo
  11. Is it bad I saw 24 Dat's video (before I hit play) in his post and thought "jeez, Project Cars graphics are real good" Edit, Doesnt have VR support on PS4 yet, but they say they are working on it. It'd be brilliant with a proper seat and wheel setup even with just the fixed view in a VR headset. Looks like its going on the shopping list
  12. Always hard to diagnose over a forum, but i'd be very confident its the diff. What are the mustache bar mounts like? If they are worn or soft they could be allowing the mustache bar to move up or down on the big rubber chassis mounts under load. You should be able to put a jack under the diff (while its on stands) and lift the weight up to see how the bushes move under chassis weight and free hanging, should give you an idea of how soft they are and roughly how far they'll compress under load (about half as much as when they droop) you say the diff strap is in place, but is there room for the
  13. Im fairly certain from looking at it, it requires (electrical or mechanical) input to release the lock, but the locks are always engaged, or about to engage in one of its lock positions when its lifted, regardless of whether it has power or not. At least thats a sensible approach to engineering a saftey system, but like you say, ebay can be hit and miss sometimes
  14. This was pretty much exactly what i was going to go with until i got a lucky break on my hoist. The reviews and comments i saw around the place on them are very favourable. I was planning on mounting one column permanently in the shed, with the other pulled out into the middle when i wanted to lift something, That catch with this one is that the rams push up out the top and you can still have headroom clearance problems. I was just going to have a tube (Chimney sort of thing) on one side of the roof for the ram to extend into. But again, my house, i can mod it if i want...
  15. Its expensive for what it is. Having said that, it'll work for what you want, but doing anything between the ramps is an absolute PITA It looks stable enough to hold a zed or other mid size car. I havent used that exact one, but we had very similar at the tyre shop I worked at years ago. They get very dirty underneath because they can be hard to clean around. I have the same headroom problem in my shed and I did consider something like this but ultimately decided that it wouldnt be useful enough to me to justify the cost or space required. It helps that I own my house though so I could look a
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